Leaky capacitors need replacement?

I replaced all the tubes and my amp is still sputtering so next I’m off to a tech to replace those caps and hope that’s the issue.  

Yes, it's an upside-down photo and I scraped some of the brown off of the top (bottom) already to see where the leak was coming from.  Thanks!

Are you saying to replace the electrolytics with new electrolytics or use something else?  These are right off the AC mains between the IEC plug and the rest of the amp. 

Are the one's in the picture electrolytic or something else?

I can't get to mouser for some reason.  I should not get electrolytic, right?

I should add that I opened the amp up because it was making a sputtering noise every once in a while -- would this perhaps be the cause of that?

I don't know if I can fit those fancy caps in the same spot -- they are rather large!  I probably need to get something the same size so I can run the leads where they need to go (my amp is point-to-point wired).

Aren't electrolytics generally frowned upon for audio use because they leak and have issues with heat?  My understanding is that they are only used because they are physically small for the farads/volts compared to other types. Is this right?

I should add I would be most happy to put something in that might last longer.

Yeah, you're probably right....  I'll check around locally.  I'm not sure anyone actually does gadget repair here anymore that isn't just iPhone battery replacement.  If not I'll have to ship it off and listen to my old stereo again for a while.  Blech.

Anyone want to put out a shout for a great tech just in case I have to ship?

Also, I need an axial version of that Nichicon and mouser has gone mental it seems.  I keep getting 403 errors.  Deny me will you... 

I set the bias.

Ok, thanks, will do!  I have a bunch of soldering questions but I will do a lot of research online before I try it out on the amp.  If anyone wants to help out:

1. What can I use for extra hands?  I would say that is 1/2 of all of my soldering problems -- not being able to hold everything together so it doesn't move when I apply the solder and all the used-to-be soldered stuff is now free to move around. 

2. What can I use as heatsinks to keep the heat to the area where I am soldering and not running out to other solder joints through the wires?

3. Is regular boring old solder from a plastic tube good enough or should I go all fancy silver solder?

I guess that's really all the issues.  :D

Thanks to everyone for their help, by the way.

If you have some extras I’d love if you could send a few to me.  I may have found one or two local techs who might be able to do the work.

Mine is alive and well loved here so it's not going anywhere.  :)

It's just a little sputtery so I'll get that fixed sometime soon, hopefully locally so I don't have to mail it.

@clio09 has been super helpful and great to work with!  Thank you.

The guy I bought it from said it was 3 years old.

Is it right that those capacitors have a life rating of 10,000 hours? Will I need to change my capacitors again that soon?

@imhifan Ah, I see. That is more comforting...

I will see if @clio09 has any of the original capacitors he can send me and if not I’ll buy the Nichicons as suggested and find someone local (if possible) to replace them.

I need to open the amp back up and take some pictures and measurements and I'll post them later.  It's just a matter of what will fit.

OK, here's a bunch of pictures:
Imgur: The magic of the Internet

I have amp #1249, if that means anything regarding how old it is.

The caps needing replacement are around 15-20mm wide and 40-45mm or so long and are axial and connected as show in the pictures (picture #2, at the bottom right, the two grey ones). 

It looks like one side of each capacitor runs to the ground from the AC plug and then goes through the cap and a resistor to what I imagine is the transformer.  The two capacitors are connected together at ground and the two resistors are connected together at the transformer but they don't connect at the tabbed thingy in the middle, which is just a separator.

Can I shove some small radials in there?  Probably.  I have some vertical height to work with but will the leads be long enough to reach where they need to go?  I'm not sure.  That's my concern with radials.

I could also just use a couple of axials of approximately the same size.  I found two on Mouser:

336TTA350M Cornell Dubilier - CDE | Mouser
PEG124UH2330QL1 KEMET | Mouser

Here's detailed specs for the KEMET since no ripple current is listed:   PEG124UH2330QL1 (kemet.com)

It looks like either will fit fine.  Should I order some of these and take them and the amp to a local tech for replacement or are the radials mentioned preferred?