|
jpmeurer2
Exactly the point!
What are you referring to? |
"I would simply note that Audio Desk System recommends the application of BLACK to the outer edge of CDs. I have done blind listening comparisons with fellow audio enthusiasts utilizing a highly revealing system (Meridian 808.6, ARC Ref40/250SE, Magnepan20.7) with a clear consensus for black over blue/green."
I’m aware. They’re wrong IMHO. As I recall the CD treatment that’s been around forever - Auric Illuminator I and II - also recommends BLACK. I think they even give you free one. They’re wrong too. Now that you mention it, I’m not a big fan of blind listening tests. They don’t prove anything. Again IMHO. As I already pointed out the CD laser nominal wavelength is invisible at 780 nm. I know what you’re thinking - but BLACK absorbs ALL colors AND infrared light. 😀
|
jpmeurer2
I have found that applying black permanent marker ink to the outer edge of a CD improves the overall sonic quality (better than the blue-green Stoplight).
While I have to admit that’s it’s quite counter-intuitive, black is actually not the best choice for the outer edge and should never be used for the label itself. I think this use of the color black on the outer edge might possibly be an excellent example of expectation bias. On the other hand black should always be used for the inner lip of the CD. Green or blue green is the best all around color for the outer edge but there can be exceptions since the color of the CD influences the sound as well. Blue green happens to be the complementary color of red so one suspects it absorbs red scattered light. But wait! The CD laser is 780 nm - which is invisible! Whaaaaa? Then there’s the color purple, which is also an effective color for the outer edge, who knows why? I might as well mention a notable exception - the Mercury Living Presence classical CDs released in the 90s with those iconic black and white labels. Those CDs should get red ink on the outer edge.
|
Sabai, the sound will be more transparent and more coherent compared to the case when they're stored horizontally. |
Quick interrupt! If I’m not mistaken the tiny little bowls work for headphones, too. Bigger sound, more energy, more dynamics, subjectively louder, much better and more powerful bass. What the ding dong?! I just installed twenty copper tube caps, half were 1/2" diameter, the rest 1". Almost all were placed in upper corners of the main room and other rooms throughout the place, you know, just to see what would happen. Whoa!!
addendum: I use glue dots to stick the tiny bowls directly to the wall or ceiling surface. One foot out from the actual corner. One one or more of the three surfaces per corner. Use only Super Strength/ Ultra Thin Glue Dots brand. |
Sabai
geoffkait,
I just checked your own placement diagram on your site. I see you are using some of the same placements as Franck Tchang.
If you had read further you would have seen my diagram is meant to be only a guide. And that I recommend an SPL meter for best results. Hel-loo! Which is why I provide several lengths of silk string and a large tack with my tiny little bowls. You know, so one can easily move the resonator around to find the BEST LOCATION if you wish to play trial and error. What I write is on that page is,
"...and several different lengths of white silk thread that provide flexibility in locating the best location on the wall without moving the tack around too much. (In BOLD) (See paragraph below for use of SPL meter and test tone in finding optimum locations.) The resonator is first placed 6 feet above the floor on a given wall using the shortest length thread; then, the two longer lengths of thread can be tried to see if lowering the height of the resonator improves the sound. It is recommended that the resonators be used in pairs for reasons of symmetry. Suggested number of resonators per room is 2-6.
All diagrams look similar because the general locations of high pressure peaks are well known, in the general sense, you know, but not in an exact sense - I.e., near room corners, between box type speakers on the wall behind them, on the wall behind the listener, etc. so, the diagram would actually look different for electrostatic or other panel speakers. You know, since the radiation patterns are entirely different. |
Sabai wrote,
I have no experience with your resonators so I cannot comment on their effectiveness nor can I compare them to resonators made by other makers -- or my own DIY version. But may I respectfully note that you earlier mentioned that you "... started designing and selling acoustic resonators before acoustic resonators were even a gleam in Franck Tchang’s eye ...". But in a more recent post I note that you refer to your resonators being around for 4 or 5 years. Franck Tchang's resonators came out in 2004.
I wasn't referring to my tiny little bowls. I was referring to my Brilliant Pebbles which are also resonators and which debuted at the HiFi show in London in 2003.
cheers
|
sabai
geoffkait,
Is there an explanation for this improvement related to storage?
- Not that on aware of.
What kind of improvement can be expected?
- Should be sufficient to make you start mumbling to yourself.
|
Here's a dirt cheap tweak. If you are one of those who stores his CDs and or LPs so they are in a horizontal position you will get a lot better sound by storing them all vertically. Some folks use those CD towers that store the CDs horizontally. Those CD towers are bad news. If you have CD towers just flip them on their side so the CDs are all vertical.
|
Sabai, I never said Franck Tchang’s diagram wouldn’t work at all. In fact I specifically said that a post or two ago. It’s because you’re close to but not exactly on the 6 dB peak, only at the 2 dB or 3 dB point or whatever. Close but no cigar.
Pop quiz: why are even tinier little bowls also a good idea. 1/2" bowls are what, 1/4 the volume of the 1" bowls?
footnote: Sabai, you forgot to mention Machina Dynamica’s Codename White Poppy acoustic resonators, which have been around for what four or five years? See if you can guess the material I use for my resonators. Betcha can’t. Hint: Machina Dynamica’s Tru Tone Wall Outlet Covers which have been around for 10 years employ the same material (and are also resonators!). There is also Golden Sound’s Acoustic Discs which are not bowls but are basically the same general idea. They’ve been around more than 10 years.
cheers, everybody
geoff kait
machina dynamica
|
sabai
The sand has to be dry. If you are taking it off the beach on a dry day it may feel dry but it will still take some airing out to get rid of the residual moisture.
Sand is so passé. I have just one word for you: Glass microspheres. Like the ones I use in my new ISO stand. Sand is what cheap DIYers use when they can't afford the real thing. 😄
Geoff Kait
machina dynamica
|
sabai
geoffkait,
Simply being direct and to the point. You stated, " ... you’re only guessing if you don’t use a SPL meter." Do you mean that Frank Tchang was only guessing? But then you stated, "It [Franck’s diagram] will get you around 50% of my SPL meter method." If so, nice to hear Franck made some good guesses and that your method is twice as good as Franck’s guess work.
Far be it from me to beat a dead horse but Franck Tchang’s diagram was designed SPECIFICALLY for HIS Special pure Gold, Silver, Platinum and Basic acoustic resonators thus are doomed to FAIL for the knock-off attempts of cheap DIYers. If a DIYer gets good result with Franck Tchang’s diagram it means you were lucky. It’s ridiculous to think that ALL speakers and ALL rooms would exhibit identical dynamic sound pressure mapping. One can't help wondering how Franck Tchang addresses sound pressure peaks that are NOT on any room wall but in the 3-D space of the room. Follow?
At the risk of repeating myself has anyone experimented with tiny bowl resonators smaller than the 7/8" Franck Tchang resonators?
Have a a nice day
|
No need to be snippy, Sabai. I started designing and selling acoustic resonators before acoustic resonators were even a gleam in Franck Tchang’s eye. That’s why I know that a SPL meter is the only real way to determine where resonators should be placed in any room. Now, I'm not saying that using Franck Tchang's diagram won't work, it will. It will get you around 50% of my SPL meter method.
"Never get behind anyone 100%." - my old Boss at NASA
have a nice day
|
lexphin
Sabai
Just a quick note on the Franck Tchang placement. I was really not expecting much.....HOLY CRAP!! was I WRONG! The soundstage opened up in height, width and especially depth. Vocals were so much clearer. I do have a fairly revealing system, so others results may vary, depending on their gear, but this is one cheap tweek everyone should try. About 3 hours of labor including research, pick up of supplies, installation and about $20 out of pocket, yielded what I would consider a $1000`s worth of improvement!
Who knows, if you had used a SPL meter instead of a rough guide you might have considered it a $3000 worth of improvement. When you don’t place the tiny little bowls precisely on the sound pressure peak you wind up with a local maximum. If you’re off by 6" you can miss the peak entirely. Hel-loo! In addition, Franck Tchang points out that the recommended locations are intended for HIS resonators, I.e., the locations are specific to his GOLD, SILVER and PLATINUM resonators, depending on location. Which IMHO is all the more reason to look deeper into the placement of whatever resonators you’re using. For example, Franck Tchang writes,
"Step 4 should only use the Silver or Gold Special models. This position is very effective to open up the corners. The wooden base must be installed on the sidewall but butt right up against the front wall. It should sit slightly lower than the center resonator of Step 3 but no lower than 5cm from the ceiling."
|
So, anyway, has anyone played around with 1/2" diameter bowls? Just curious....
|
Sabai, Franck’s guide to locations for resonators is just that - a guide. Even he says that. Every room is different. If your location is off by 6 or 12" that can make all the difference in the world, as you missed the peak. The real locations vary from room to room, system to system, speaker to speaker. Speakers radiate different patterns so there cannot be one size fits all. And that’s why you’re only guessing if you don’t use a SPL meter. And I'm not even getting into the RFI angle.
|
You can home in on the very best locations for almost any type of acoustic resonators like the tiny bowls or even tube traps using a SPL meter and a test time of say 315 Hz off one of those test CDS. This will allow very accurate placement of the resonantors where there are peak sound pressure levels that are say, 6 dB above the average sound pressure in the room. For example, in the upper room corners and first reflection points. You would be shocked at just how many of these exceedingly high SPL peaks there can be in a room. Oh, and don’t forget other rooms of the house.
|
mapman
$4.99 at Party City. Much more if sold here.
what a party pooper |
It appears my decision not to offer Mr. Spock Ears prosthetics for audiophiles 25 years ago was somewhat premature.
😀 |
oblgny
Q-Tips.
Q-Tips for cleaning all wall outlets contacts and power cord plug prongs in the house including those used for appliances, TV, computer, etc.
|
Drill holes in refrigerator for cables and place all electonics on racks inside. Support refrigerator with springs to isolate the while kit and kaboodle.
|
