audiotroy: ...get the Anthem or the Micromega
jafant: Anthem STR
Thank you both!
Integrated amp + DAC + room correction all-in-one for Nola Boxer 1 + REL R328 sub
Dear forum,
I’m looking to upgrade my integrated amp + external DAC source to an all-in-one integrated amp + DAC + room correction box. Budget to $2500, may stretch to $2800 if super-compelling.
I currently use a Creek 5350se integrated amp, with external DAC input from a Yamaha RX-V773 AVR (TI/Burr-Brown PCM1681 DAC chip on whatever circuit Yamaha cooked up).
Loudspeakers are Nola Boxer 1 on Dynaudio Stand 4, and REL R328 sub connected by Neutrix cable to main L/R binding posts on amp. Loongg runs of ProWire speaker and Neutrix cables through crawlspace to loudspeakers / sub.
Music = classical + opera, electronic, new & old rock, alternative, trap, house
Room is 18’ x 12’ x 13’h average ceiling height (2808 cu feet), hardwood floors, random furniture objects. Speakers 6’ apart, REL sub in corner to right of right speaker, listening position 8’ from center of speaker axis.
Requirements (but will flex if compelling):
Here are units I’m researching in DESC order of coveting-ness:
All helpful feedback appreciated including units I haven’t considered. Relatedly, I’m wondering how much I’d give up if I went the ’budget’ route (Yamaha A-S801).
I’m looking to upgrade my integrated amp + external DAC source to an all-in-one integrated amp + DAC + room correction box. Budget to $2500, may stretch to $2800 if super-compelling.
I currently use a Creek 5350se integrated amp, with external DAC input from a Yamaha RX-V773 AVR (TI/Burr-Brown PCM1681 DAC chip on whatever circuit Yamaha cooked up).
Loudspeakers are Nola Boxer 1 on Dynaudio Stand 4, and REL R328 sub connected by Neutrix cable to main L/R binding posts on amp. Loongg runs of ProWire speaker and Neutrix cables through crawlspace to loudspeakers / sub.
Music = classical + opera, electronic, new & old rock, alternative, trap, house
Room is 18’ x 12’ x 13’h average ceiling height (2808 cu feet), hardwood floors, random furniture objects. Speakers 6’ apart, REL sub in corner to right of right speaker, listening position 8’ from center of speaker axis.
Requirements (but will flex if compelling):
- one box, no separates: amp + DAC and ideally + room correction
- ethernet-in on DAC circuit <= can be talked out of this if sensible alternatives
- ’classic’ & useful front-plate design <= no NuPrime IDA-16
- simple, solid, non-stupid remote <= again, no NuPrime. Rogue doesn’t get hi marks here either
- known affinity with Nola Boxer 1 a huge plus
Here are units I’m researching in DESC order of coveting-ness:
- Hegel H190 <= yes $4K USD srp, will stretch to $2800 to buy used
- Parasound HINT6 Halo <= ESS Sabre32 Reference ES9018K2M DAC, new product, no reviews/track-record. No ethernet-in either. Will stretch to $2800 for used ... and probly have to wait a long time for that.
- Creek Evolution 100A <= no ethernet-in. Eventual poor reliability experience with my existing Creek 5350se, which used a lo-quality ALPS input switch, which is failing
- Micromega M-100 <= will stretch to $2800 for used. No ethernet-in afaict.
- Rogue Cronus Magnum II <= reviews suggest cheap-feeling remote. No ethernet-in.
- Yamaha A-S801 <= ’budget’ solution at $900 USD, ESS Sabre ES9010K2M DAC circuit. Needs Yamaha wireless connector for ethernet-in. May not have room correction?
All helpful feedback appreciated including units I haven’t considered. Relatedly, I’m wondering how much I’d give up if I went the ’budget’ route (Yamaha A-S801).
Showing 14 responses by usery
... demo a Lyngdorf 2170 ...Thanks uberwaltz for the guidance. I did glance at the Lyngdorf TDAI-3400 - looks great and crazy-above my budget. Clearly I should look at the 2170. ... your reasons for an all-in-one?Thank you david_ten for the insightful question. Reason for the all-in-one: I'd like to get this phase of my audiophile OCD over with in one shot, and not mosh about it any further in this lifetime. Really. |
I use a Bluesound Vault2 ethernet-in then spdif out to 2170 Thanks uberwaltz for the alternative. For .flac files on NAS I use ethernet-in on Yamaha RX-V773 AVR then out to Creek amp over Audioquest Sydney RCA cables. T/I Burr-Brown PCM1681 DAC circuit in the AVR ... not the most discerning but it does the job. I’m seeing the 2170 is 170w into 4 ohms - presumably 85w into 8 ohms? Wondering how that will drive Nola Boxer 1’s - I’ve seen comments suggesting Boxer 1’s do best with a bit more horsepower. Though they seem to do just fine with my Creek 5350se at 90w into 8 ohms ... 2170 would probly be fine too. Micromega is amazing sounding...Has everything you wantThank you audiotroy for the patient recommending of the Micromega - the M100 is on my short list. I do wonder about long-term performance, reliability and company staying-power. Have seen nothing suggesting any shortfalls, I just don’t see much intel or track-record out on the interwebz. edit: on closer look, I am concerned about the weird rear case design - that overhang looks like a real obstruction for easy access to one’s connections to the amp. |
...my advice is to save up for the right-for-you and 'long lasting' solution... david_ten, thank you for more insightful feedback. Indeed, you've talked me into waiting and saving up for the right all-in-one in this lifetime. And for the next lifetime? Hoping not to be so attached to objects ; ) |
Thanks to all who piped up with suggestions/guidance. After more research, reflection and attachment I've pulled the trigger on a Micromega M-100 (w/o room correction - that was an additional ~$900 USD). If anyone's interested I'll report back once the M-100 is settled in and hummin' (figuratively). |
For those interested
here's a preliminary report for my Micromega M-100.
These are initial impressions right after setup, with < 90
minutes of listening time. Thanks again to all for the insight
& comments. Config:
Listening log: CD (redbook):
1. Excellent, elegant appearance and build quality: case,
rear panel, front panel display. Rear of case design not the
friendliest / pragmatic-est (overhang constrains available
space for handling interconnects) 2. Remote exudes material quality but ergonomics and usability are challenged: awkward one-hand operation due to size, shape, weight & button layout. Maybe I just need to practice. 3. Micromega M-One app for Android extremely unstable - crashes frequently during operation. That's too bad: can't reliably control the amp from beyond range of physical remote (see #2). Haven't sent feedback to Micromega yet. Sound quality: In short: pretty f'ing good. No, really f'ing good. Interim verdict: so far, unmitigated victory for my requirements. All-in-one that does it all, most importantly kicking ass on sonic quality. |
Congratulations...david_ten thanks ... and thanks for reminding to resist my own urge towards hyperbole ; ) i too am very interested in the Micromega...portlandiego: here's a white paper from Micromega, was helpful for me during due diligence: http://www.micromega.com/downloads/white-paper-UK-v2.pdf |
benb - then your requirements were like mine when I first started shopping. I already had the sub piece solved (REL R-328 connected by Neutrik to L/R mains output). From advice on this thread I deferred room correction until later (and for my money Micromega’s optional MARS is overpriced). I took a chance on the M-100 and for me it's a winner, sonic performance being the most-important attribute. Network streaming, phono and all the rest are there too. Regrettably the Android control app is abysmally unstable - an actual embarrassment, if I were on that Micromega team. |
Yamaha and the more commercial sellers make good products, but their [sic] are better products out there at that price point, eg. Micromega. wrt 'that price point', the Yamaha A-S810 is a sub-$1K amp. If you're finding the Micromega M-100 on sale at even remotely close to that price, well, don't wait. |
...corroboration would be nicebenb: I haven't measured the front-to-back distance between the M-100's spiked feet - but with total case depth including rear overhang at ~ 13.78" (350mm), it will fit fine on a 15"d shelf. My M-100 sits on a bamboo 'butcher block' cutting board w/ dimensions 17"w x 13"d x 1.5"h. ... the overhang in the back is not user friendlydjones51: overhang is indeed unfriendly for monkeying with interconnects - but after initial hook-ups how often does one monkey with them? I skipped the Isopods and used the aforementioned cutting board for 'isolation and damping'. You can find them at Ikea or on Amazon starting at around $20. Until I see measurements from credible experiments, and objective end-user feedback (even if it's about their 'subjective' experience), I'm wary of accessory and interconnect mumbo-jumbo. |