Ideas on Technics SP-15 plinth

Jardo,

The SP-15 doesn't have an outboard PSU - all circuitry is internal. If all the wires have been cut off (many were hardwired into their consoles) then you'd have to connect a standard AC power cord and plug.

That said, my main deck is an SP-15 in the Technics SH-15B3 plinth. I bought it in a Technics ProBase, which is just a thick piece of Masonite with a cutout for the motor, and the SH-15B3 is far superior. It improved even more when I replaced the stock feet with cones. The molded rubber of the SH-15B3 is very dense and non-resonant, and the replaceable armboard is ideal for trying different arms.

I've never tried any other plinth materials, although people build all sorts of different plinths for their SP-10s. The SP-15 might be improved with a similar treatment, but it might also be overkill. The SP-15 is a fine motor, but "right up there with the very best" might be stretching it. If the circuitry starts to go, the body of knowledge and availability of after market parts is much smaller than it is with the SP-10. On the other hand, you can buy an entire SP-15 motor for $200-300, so repair isn't really cost effective anyway.

Anyway, have fun. I'm really happy with my SP-15, and I'm about to mount up a Micro Seiki MA-505 which should make it even better.

David

Use as heavy and dense a material as possible. I would look at vinyl engine site and DIY audio sites for leads. I sold them years ago and they were very good, the bases were always their weakest point. I am a Star Sound dealer and have found that their threaded cones improve the VPI tables so I imagine they would do the same for yours. Slate would make a good base if you have a good source and someone to cut it.

Hi Jardo,

You need to speak with Steve Dobbins...aka Vetterone here on Audiogon!

He has EXTENSIVE knowledge of Lenco's, Garrards,Technics etc. and has made custom plinths, platters for all of these.In addition, he has experimented with arm, platter, plinths combos...

Good luck!

Hi Jardo, if you build a plinth, use the advice given above, plus make sure that the plinth is as rigid as possible and as tightly-coupled to the SP-15 as possible. Any loss of rigidity, any resonance that exists between the base of the platter and the base of the tonearm can be interpreted by the cartridge as a coloration.

Have fun!!