Ideas for an amplifier?


Hi Gentlemen,

i was thrilled at receiving a second hand Maraschino Cherry and was looking for another one. A gentleman on eBay had two that were sold for $1,000 pair, less than half price new. Then I found out that the Digital Amplifier Company is essentially defunct with the untimely death of its owner, Mr. Tom O’Brien. RIP

Perhaps people are worried about parts and repair. 
 

I did a lot of reading on amps but I don’t have your experience. There is certainly a lot of hype about class D amps but one also has to watch out for the class D amps that are for low frequency subs only.   I’m not married to the idea of a class D amp and am open to suggestions. 
 

When I was young the Krell amps were amongst the best. Judging from the price it seems that is still the case. I have a McIntosh mc2100 but I just need more juice.  Most hifi stores think the newer amps have less THD than the older ones. 
 

i was reading something about a kind of impedance that needs to be matched with speakers, not the 4 ohm 8 ohm thing. Something about feedback. I didn’t understand it first time reading through it. I think it wax late before bed. 
 

at the end of this I will put the list of equipment I have. Maybe someone can suggest an amp around $1200 to $1500 on the used market?  I, like most men, just came up with that number as what I would like to spend. Once guys pull a number out of their hat it is hard to change it even though there was no logic to coming up with it. 
 

The main reason for reaching out is so that I don’t make a mistake buying an amp that everyone knows to be harsh or a great THD on paper but not smooth. 
 

Ok, here is what I have to play with now, thanks to some earlier suggestions by Dugeon. 
 

Sony HAP Zies 1tb DAC NAS

Speakers:  Vandersteens, Maggie III, Monitor Audio Silver bookshelf, B&W Nautilus SCM-1’s. 
 

PS. The Vandersteens are power hungry. All the others are good. 
sub:  RBH (don’t like it because it can’t handle much power before sounding flop flop from overdriving them)  driven by a Yamaha 2500 in mono mode. 
 

Please only nice positive comments. Thank you. 

128x128geworthomd

Showing 7 responses by holmz

Is there anyone that comes to mind as your go-to electronic repair technician who can repair almost any amp?  These guys are becoming obsolete due to Chinese imports but that is a monster for a different forum. Cheers

My VTLs (mono blocks) just got a new capacitor and a bad solder joint fixed by a local repair place.

So IMO just start with a local place and see if they can do it.

I have some 2Cs, and they are not really that power hungry.
They are a relatively easy load to drive.

I currently have a PrimaLuna Dialogue Premium HP (88w/ch or 44 in triode, and the sound fine and have plenty of SPL)

If you can wait a month, I got some Topping A90 amps ($160 USD) and an AIYAMA ($70) to try with some surround sound speakers.
Is so, then I could hook them up.

 

One the multi $1000 end:

  • There are the Purifi based, like March Audio, Buckeye, etc.
  • And @Atmasphere is popular with the Vandy crowd, and Ralph has a new class D out, or coming out.

And lots of other amps Vandy users are using on the Vandy forum… so it might be worth asking there?

 

Well I looked like an idiot listening to the tweeters.

This was after unboxing the two Topping PA3 amps.
I prepped some 12 gauge wire and wired up the Vandersteens.

Ran an extra set of RCAs from the preamp, and had a Y adapter on each amp so the LHS amp is doing full signal out of both channels.
Same on the RHS.

Then each of the speaker bi-wore posts can get its own channel.

I turned the amps to 12 o’clock, which is difficult with no actual mark on the dial… so I used some tape make the mark on.

I have the Pre-Amp set at -8dB, and I usually run it at about -30 to -20 dB with most other amps. So I ran a much hotter signal.
There is something more like a high frequency buzz, than a ground loop hum, or like a white noise hiss.

If I run a 0dB single ended RCA, and rack the amp’s gain knob back it is OK for hiss.

The sound is not bad… pretty good really.

The gain management could be a challening, but they are designed for a full range signal, and will likely better with an XLR, which is the idea for ANV surround channels.

For $120 as a stereo amp, it seems OK for sound, other than the hissing.
(But returning them for an amazon refund)

ASR measured SINAD:

  • Topping PA3s at 69 dB
  • AIYAMA at 83 dB
  • Upper end stuff is 100dB or higher

The AIYAMA is half way between say a March Audio and a Topping in terms in SINAD.

I think that the state of art class-D should be worth a try based upon the 30dB noisier unit being OK. I see how the AIYAMA goes on the morrow.
And maybe hook the VTLs back up.

^The Topping had a sound reminiscent of a TV fly back transformer.^

 

 

I hooked up the $70 AIYAMA today… Same cables, but as a single stereo amp, so I twisted the bi-wires together and put them into a banana plug on teh amp end.

I cranked the volume knob full clock wise, and it is the same volume as the PrimaLuna Dialigue HP Premium was a monumental earlier.

Zero hiss… nothing.

And it sounds pretty damned good.
Amazing really for a $70 amp.
The preamp is set back to -38dB, and maybe it is ~70 dB SPL… (just checked and it is 70 to 86 dB on NIOSH app. Playing Doug MacLeod “Black Magic”, so quiet to peak is a lot.)


But it is a pretty liveable sound. I have a whoppin big linear supply to use for a 5.1 center channel… but it is running on the switcher it came with at the moment.

Imaging, sound stage etc, are all pretty good.

 

ASR has It is rated at 83 dB SINAD, so the higher end amps around 100dB (+/- 5dB) should be better. 

And in reality these class D are always rated into 4 ohms. So halve the wattage when going into 8 ohms... so one likely wants a 250-400W version for powering a speaker like the Vandy, as we then get 125-200W into 8 ohms.
 

I’ll definitely be using this as a benchmark to compare other amps with. And moving it to do center channel work.
The only drawback (for some) is no XLR.

The preamp probably helps as it is a tube, so maybe it gives it some extra prescience?

Is it normal for Vandys to say 2ce on the box but the actual speaker name plate to just say “Model 2”

I don’t mean the speakers say that, only it is on the badge. We all know speakers can’t talk

Mine talk… 😎

Was the “e’ for elliptical?
If so maybe a flashlight will allow a peek through the fabric to look at the MR driver?

I do recall some talk about the 2 being generically stated, and no overt subclasses on the badging.