How to get rid of Bondini residual glue ?

Ouch, you've got a potential tough one. Bondini is a superglue/cyanoacrylate type adhesive, so you'll be using one of three solvents: acetone, nitromethane, or methylene chloride. The last two have problems, as in explosive and toxic in the extreme. I'd try acetone first, but there is a probability that the acetone might craze the plastic. I'd make some very small applications to as inconspicuous a spot a possible to test for damage potential first. It might be best to contact BAT and just buy a new window.

I checked and tested acetone on every clear plastic sample we had around our studio. Every one was hazed/crazed/damaged to some degree. Plexiglass was damaged the least. You're probably best trying to buy a replacement window.

Tks, Photon. My new " BLACK" face-plate looks soooo good and I don't want to pay another $200.00 for another face-plate. I am going to order just the plastic window from BAT . Now the other problem I have is to remove the plastic window from the face-plate. Anybody know the easy way remove the plastic window from the face-plate after the Bondini has bonded them together? Some clerk at WM told me they are permanently attached materials together.

I would try polishing the plastic window since you have nothing to loose.

My guess is the plastic is not coated by the glue, but partially dissolved by it. Cleaning won't work, the glue is not just lying on top.

Any solvent that attacks cyanoacrylate will probably make the plastic worse. Too bad it's not glass, it would be unaffected.

The best product is Polier' which is made by Flitz. Problem is, Polier' is very difficult to find.

If the face plate can be removed from the player, you could try this. Put something like artist's paper tape around the face plate fascia where it butts up against the plastic window to protect it from what follows. Freeze the face plate in as cold a freezer as you can find. (Low temperature weakens cyanoacrylate bonds.) Then try prying loose the window. If the face plate & windows are dissimilar materials, you've got a better shot at this working. I suppose it's possible to take this even further with dry ice in a portable freezer chest. That would really get Bondini below it's designated range of temperatures. It's unfortunate that Bondini is the latest generation of superglues that make tougher bonds than ever. If the face plate is anodized aluminum, you could also try injecting acetone into the crack between the fascia and plastic window with a hypodermic syringe (testing first on an inside surface.)

Very good suggestion by Photon46; if cold alone does not work, try alternating heat and cold. Different co-efficients of expansion AND different impacts on the bond could "break" or weaken the bond enough to pry it out.