2. speakers
  3. 173289-169350

How to fuse bypass in Magnepan 1.7i

Anyone bypassed the fuse on a 1.7i specifically? I read that it's a simple move of the wires but this wasn't the case for me. As you can see in the first photo, the yellow wire connector is stamped to the fuse box, and the yellow wire crimped on pretty tight. I gave it some decent force and it wasn't budging.

I've also heard the Cardas small post works fine, but again this wasn't the case for me. The Cardas post was slightly too large in diameter for the Magenepan wire connector to fit over.

Anyone who has done this and could offer some guidance as to how you accomplished it?

Thanks in advance!

 

zenworm

Showing 3 responses by bdp24

bdp24's avatar
bdp24
10,288 posts
 

The beauty of bypassing the fuse block is that it requires no permanent, irreversible mods (at least it didn't on my Tympani T-IVa). Just move the internal wires. Even if you very slightly enlarge the binding post holes to fit Cardas posts, the stock posts may be reinstalled, no harm done.

bdp24's avatar
bdp24
10,288 posts
 

The problem with jumpers---no matter how good---is that the signal still passes through steel parts and junk wire.

bdp24's avatar
bdp24
10,288 posts
 

The Magnepan fuse block contains ferrous (steel!) parts, a terrible idea. Maggies can absorb a lot of power with little chance of damage, except for their fantastic ribbon tweeter (found in the current MG3.7a, 20.7a, and 30.7).

I just by-passed the block in the bass panels of my Tympani T-IVa, leaving it in the midrange/tweeter panel. The ribbon tweeter is not that expensive to replace, so some owners bypass the fuse block protecting it as well.

The holes for the stock binding posts in my T-IVa's were just (and I mean just) a hair smaller than the size of the Cardas posts. The gentle use of a circular file (merely running it around the circumference of the hole a few times) enlarged the hole enough to allow the Cardas posts to be inserted. 

More to discover