Laquer is my preferred finish for all woodworking projects. Wax can be applied for further protection, but I would only consider doing that on something like a coffee table or dining table. I use a wax on my quartersawn oak antique coffee table (actually a cut down antique library table since they didn't generally have coffee tables back then), and once hand buffed, it is quite shiny and nice looking and the wax adds an extra protection against water, food, wife's fingernail polish, etc. Since you do not eat off of your speakers, or handle them daily, and assuming the laquer finish is nice, I do not see any reason to apply a wax. Dust them with a damp cloth or with a light dusting product sprayed on the cloth. Old laquer can be rejuvinated with a product like Howard Restor-A-Finish that is commonly used by anitique dealers looking to quickly make a piece look desirable for sale. However, that product reemulsifies the upper portion of the finish and should only be used sparingly. |
I have Coincident Super Eclipse IIs with the unusual black finish. I'd not call it piano black, because it does not have that deep lustre and shine. I don't quite know what it is - but it reminds me of my old Yamaha NS1000s.
I wanted to keep them in top shape - as we all do - and asked Israel Blume what to do. And he pretty much said as Merganser. Occasionally wipe them with a moist cloth - that is, moistened with water.
To be honest, I've never even done that. I just dust them regularly with a feather duster and don't touch them with my fingers. They don't show finger prints like the piano laquer finishes do anyway - but what the heck. They are 5 years old and look as new.
Well, maybe I'll try sprucing them up tonight with a moist soft cloth.
Regards, |
"Does any wax or oil actually penetrate for moisturizing into wood that has been laquered or varnished?"
Emphatically, no!
The adage, "Once a day for a week. Then, once a week for a month. Then, once a month for a year." is in reference to boiled linseed oil, not wax.
When using solid wood or veneer to construct furniture/speakers the ideal moisture content should not exceed 8%, that is considered bone dry. You do not want to add moisture to the wood and in fact, with a good clear coat finish, you can't. Look folks, the polish/wax industry is a billion dollar a year business and they'll say anything to take your money, but the fact is you don't need any of it. Dust with a clean, soft, slightly moist cotton cloth, keep your stuff out of bright sunlight, away from other heat sources, try to keep the humidity levels at a reasonable level and let the clear coat finish do what it was put on for.
Relax and enjoy the music. |
Thanks for the responses,so far.To go a bit further,I have a constant winter humidity of 45%.In summer it stays around 55%.I am always in the "supposed" safety zone of 40-60 % year long.NO sunlight,and a STUNNING pair of Avalon Ascent MK-2's,which I am in love with.Gorgeous Olive wood,and laquered finish.
My manual says to use a polish,like Weiman's cream,but I had read an article in a woodwork magazine(last year) that was emphatic about cleaners/creams as being a waste of time,over laquer.The article stated that a good wax,like Sheradale by Briwax,would protect the finish,and seal the cabinet from moisture,or abrasions.
My thinking is that the laquer already seals the wood,so the moisture issue is not a problem,so long as humidity is good,and consistent.
Yet,the comment about the wax adding to drying out the wood troubles me!I hope this is not the case.I did some web checking,and ALL articles claimed a good wax is the best way to go.I hope this is true,but wanted to know if something like a yearly application is needed.As stated,there is NO loss of wax(very hard,btw) on my cabinets.
Best! |
Gammajo, any finish that will protect wood from water damage isn't going allow moisturizing oil to get into the finish either. Naturally oily woods like teak that have an oil finish do benefit from occasional moisturizing with oil I think. But most hardwoods don't have much, if any, natural oils that need replacing. After thinking about this, I imagine pretty much all speakers are manufactured in plants that use a catalyzed urethane or acrylic lacquer finish. If this is the case, the wood is sealed and waxes are only going to protect against abrasion and help to keep dust from adhering to the finish. Again, the best protection for good wood is to avoid large humidity fluctuations and air that's too dry. |
Does any wax or oil actually penetrate for moisturizing into wood that has been laquered or varnished? |
Wax is done, once wax is done... The only reason a car needs re-treatment is of course going thru the sun, rain, cold, hot, dirt off the road etc.... It will break down and become necessary to re apply... Speakers, well unless you travel with them playing in the back of your pickup running around, they will be fine once shined up in your living room... Of course fingerprints or something could cause you to do a quick touchup. |
When building a cabinet (I'm a woodworker) the adage goes: "Once a day for a week. Then, once a week for a month. Then, once a month for a year."
What kind of confuses me is wax over laquer. With most laquer finishes - think of piano black - applying wax over laquer would only dull the finish. Assuming that your speaker cabs look better for having done the wax job previously, I'd say go ahead and do it again if you think it needs it.
Wood moves. Wood or wood veneers can dry out. The point of the laquer finish and wax is to radically slow down the process so that it takes decades instead of months to dry out (or sponge up.)
To answer your question more directly: If it's been a year, you would likely want to do it again soon.
/Rob
PS: Feel free to contact me offline with any other wood questions you might have. |
Wax, once applied, doesn't go anywhere unless removed by friction or abrasion. No need to reapply as far as the protective aspects go unless you're rubbing it off somehow. I would not agree that wax is the ideal panacea for wood care. Veneers can dry out and delaminate. I have been of the opinion that keeping room humidity levels high enough is more important than any waxes or oils. If wood veneer becomes dry, an oil purpose made for remoisturing wood is a good option. |
