Thank you sir!
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@elizabeth - I have to agree with you WRT it being difficult to maintain uniformity for the length of the cable However I have adapted my braid as follows...
I keep the distance between crossing points to around 1-1.5 inches Using this technique you can better control the tightness of the braid and the spacing of the cross-over points. Hope tat helps - Regards Steve |
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@todd1010 - for your mono blocks... - I would use a single 10 gauge Mil-Spec for the live - 2 x 12 gauge Mil-Spec for the neutral (i.e. 9 Gauge combined total ) - 1 12 gauge Home depot wire for the ground WRT the DH Labs cables you have made - they require about 60 hours burn-in before they even staret to sound better than theri initial perofrmance, but it does not get too much better - better dynamics. If you used Sonar Quest plugs you should have heard better imaging from the start. Hope That Helps |
@williewonka I'm putting together my order for making your Helix power cables instead of using my DH Labs stuff. I have one question: If I'm wanting to make two of them for my mono block power amps in 10 Gauge, should I just replace the live wire you have mentioned in your instruction site to 10 gauge? If you feel this is not necessary and I should just use the 12 gauge mil spec wire for everything then I will. |
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Just giving some updates as to my power cable build. I finally received my Sonar Quest end plugs. I made both of my amp power cables susing the DH Labs Red Wave 10guage cable and although it’s a very nicely made cable I like the bulkiness of the cable however I do not like how much stress I got to be on the inside of the end plugs. I almost fell its it’s to much wire. The other power wires I made are perfectly fine with how they fit and sit while plugged in. I haven’t had had much time to listen to my system since the cable change but I can’t say that it sounds better/worse but I doesn’t hurt to have the power cables or at least decent ones. I’ve rad that I may notice some improvements to equipment that doesn’t have larger more capable power supplies so that’s why I’m still going to make the one for my Bluesound Node 2 which is a different end plug than the IEC. This is is why I may just end up making willywonkas helix design. |
Hi Steve Thanks for the reply much apprecitate it. I am assuming you twisted one ground around the neutral and another ground around the signal? Yes thats correct, twisting them was quite a pain and hooking them up with the connectors was also quite a challange. I will get them done as soon as my ac plugs have arrived. It will definitely be fun doing a comparison with different designs. |
@tjbhuler - There is a growing consensus within the "cables community" that having a thicker neutral than the live/signal provides improvements in sound quality. Perhaps the lower resistance of the neutral plays a larger role in the performance of the connected components? I wanted to test this theory out, so I simply doubled up on the neutral and it worked. I initially used 12 gauge for the live/signal and 2 x 12 for the neutral. It outperformed the 1 x 12 neutral version of the cable. For the Ground Wire I generally use 12 gauge regardless of size of live/signal (provided the live/signal is not over 10 gauge) because it is required in the event of a catostrophic component failure. There is no need to go to a smaller gauge (thicker) wire for the neutral - it provides no benefit RE: I have tried using same gauge for L & N with doubling up the ground wire by twisting each ground cable to L and N side. It was a very nice improvemnt when i compared to another cable i had that was much more expensive than this diy version.I am assuming you twisted one ground around the neutral and another ground around the signal? It would perform better than store bought cables because it is a Helxi design (variant). It must have been a pretty thick cable? - but I do not know if it would provide and benefits over a standard single spiral helix geometry. Perhaps if you opt for a PC using the standard helix design you could compare them and report back? The helix design provides the following physical attriibutes - it is extremly flexible - it is no thincker than a comparable bulk mains cable of a similar gauge I have made cables with 18 and 16 gauge wire and they also work very well with the components. Hope that helps Glad you are trying the Helix cables - I think you will like the improvements Regards - Steve |
The Helix geometry allows you to build a thiner Power Cable... I have been reading your methods on making them from your website and am planning to make them since I have some cables left. I have read around and some do have different gauge sizes for E,L & N. May I know what is the reason having them in different gauge sizes? Also have you tried using smaller gauge size for ground side(thicker size) with L and N using same gauge ? I have tried using same gauge for L & N with doubling up the ground wire by twisting each ground cable to L and N side. It was a very nice improvemnt when i compared to another cable i had that was much more expensive than this diy version. |
@todd1010 - I always order this pair from this store KAMKAM0770 https://www.ebay.com/itm/SONAR-QUEST-CRYO-Ag-Audio-Grade-Silver-plated-IEC-plug-US-main-plug-sonarquest/181355696313?hash=item2a39a450b9:g:J~oAAOxyhXRTKcHi Never had any issues with his stuff and he is quick Regards |
@todd1010 - that is correct - the braided mil-spec wire will provide better sound than both the DH Labs and Furutech bulk cable. If you have already purchased the DH Labs wire you can remove the outer sleeve and braid the three conductors for great results. apply some expandable sleeve for a more professional finish. However - the Helix will provide better results than the braided PC, If you are braiding the Mil-spec wire I would use the 12 gauge, because 3 x10 gauge mil-spec wires would be a really heft cable. The Helix geometry allows you to build a thiner Power Cable... - the live wire is 10 gauge - the neutral is 2 x 12 gauge wires - combined makes a 9 gauge wire - the ground can still be a single12 gauge wire - the neutral and the ground also provides sheilding for the live wire The ground is only there in the event of a catostrophic component failure, in which case, a breaker (or fuse) will trip. A 12 gauge wire is more than capable of handling this type of event in a home audio system. The biggest advantage with the Helix is that it eliminates line noise and allows a connected component to work as designed. - Whereas power cables that adopt a more standard geometry like the DH Labs and Furutech bulk cable actually introduce noise into the PC. Cleaner power = Better Sound Quality Hope that makes sense - Steve |
Guys - If you have any questions - just ask - happy to help In terms of inprovements that can be acjieved.... - the Helix Speaker cables offered the most noticeable improvements - the IC's were perhaps the next best - the power cords are a little more complicated The power cords improvements were most noticeable on components that have a less capable power supply - like source components. - e.g. my Bluesound Node 2 streamer/DAC improved significantly, whereas my amp, although improvements can be heard - I found I had to listen more intently for subtle improvements in the music - such as the reverberations in venue acoustics. Live perofrmances excell in this area The sound once all cables are of the helix design is very aluring and based on feedback from others that have tried them, confirms an almost holographic like 3d image that appears to make the speakers invisible and a level of clarity that allows music to be played at louder volumes without listner fatigue. Of course, much of this has to do with room acoustics as well - so you job is not done quite yet Just remember to allow the requisite time for burn-in - it is very important to achieve the best possible results BTW - I changed the web site a little yesterday - for the power cables due to some recent findings... - I now also recommend the Silver Plated Mil Spec for both the live and neutral conductors. - it perfroms as well as the DH Labs and Furutech wire - it is more affordable - and you don't have to strip out the conductors But if you already have the Bulk cables from either DH Labs or Furutech then you might as well use that. Regrds - Steve |
Good to hear. I based my purchase upon you Helix design information as it mentions those products but without getting into any kind of DIY. DH Labs has a sale going on now on must of their bulk wire. So I jump on it. I just didn’t want to build anything just yet. I’m still one of those guys that have not heard a difference in power cables but I haven’t given many a try. So I don’t have much to compare them to. |
I have tried the DH Labs Power Plus with the Sonar Quest.Connectors It is better than a stock power cable and about s good as Furutech 10 gauge bulk cables, but without the expense. The Connectors are one of the best out there - I use them on all of my cables If you want to improve the sound considerably but with minimal work I would make the cable itself by simply braiding three 12 gauge conductors. Cover with expandable nylon sleeve for e professional finish Take a look at thisTake Five Audio wire - it is perfect for power cables https://www.takefiveaudio.com/products/332-mil-spec-12-awg-silver-plated-copper-cryo-treated-black/ It does come in 10 gauge, but only in black For the ultimate power cable take a look at the Power Helix http://image99.net/blog/files/category-002ahelix-power-cable.html I am yet to try a better power cable - I've tried cables between $1000 and $1500 and it beats them hands down. People that have built the Helix have said they outperform their considerably more expensive power cables from established brands Improvements include - more expansive image - faster dynamics - more clarity and detail Hope That helps - Steve |