Hospital Grade Wall Outlets

You wire them the same as a regular outlet. A grounded outlet should have 3 wires. The bottom screw on the outlet should be the 3 rd wire.

These receps come with an isolated ground. I suggest for best results that you use an isolated ground wire coming from a ground rod like the phone companies use. The ground coming from the main box is common to all the circuits in the box. A dedicated circuit would also be helpful.Good luck Richard

Both suggestions above are accurate. However, It is usually a violation of local code to run the ground separate from the main panel. I agree with A2z that it sounds better, but it is sometime difficult to find an electrician who will do this for you. Just for the record, I did separate my grounds from the main panel. I took the time to explain my needs, well in advance of the job to convince the electrician that I knew exactly what I needed. One other point, regardless of the type of ground, the construction of the box you mount your hospital receptacle into can well determine the ultimate result. If the mounting box is metal, it is often grounded to the main panel. In that case, a separate ground can cause a loop, where you may get hum. If you use a PVC box to mount the hospital grade outlet into, you resolve this problem. Be warned though, the PVC has no capability to provide an emergency ground, so the ground screw on the receptacle is the only shot at getting that plug safe to ground. Be certain too, before you wire in that new receptacle, that you check its construction. Every brand of hospital grade receptacle sounds different, and even among the different brands there are several types of construction. I prefer the Hubbell brand, and be sure that it shows the golden copper color inside, where the business end of your male plug goes. The ones that are plated with the silver colored anti corrosion material (zinc?) sound terrible. Best luck.

To Albertporter: Do the hospital grade wall outlets with the silver colored anti corrosion plating inside sound worse, the same, or better than an average wall outlet that is normally in a wall? I've just had hospital grade outlets installed and don't know what brand they are or what plating is inside. It was what the electrician had on hand.I'm interested in knowing. I've just sold my speakers and am waiting on new ones, so I can't listen for myself right now. Thank you very much.

Elb - While the system is down, change out those receptacles. Look for the Leviton receptacles(20A) that don't use nickel plating. It will be worth your trouble.

jcbtubes, what is the model number of the ni free Leviton. I just installed some Levitons but don't know if they are ni free or not.

For the benefit of others who may read this thread and be interested in buying Hubbell hospital-grade outlets, I wanted to share a good buying tip. I recently bought 3 of the Hubbell outlets from "The Aduiophile Store", which is operated by UHF Magazine, a Canadian publication. They offer a number of items through their online store, including the Hubbell outlets. I paid $60 CDN, which is $40 US, for the 3 outlets -- substantially better than the prices I've seen at up to $30 each on some of the audiophile sites. If you want to order, here is the Web site address: http://www.uhfmag.com/AudiophileStore.html

The plated Leviton hospital grade will probably sound better than common household outlets. As long as you are going to the trouble, why not use the best? As I stated in my earlier posting, the Hubbell is the best construction, and the best sounding. If you compare the Hubbell, all copper construction with the Leviton, all copper, the Hubbell will have lower distortion, tighter bass and smoother highs. The Hubbell is available from commercial electrical sales outlets, and is only sometime carried by electricians. The reason? The buyer only sees a final bill for the parts and labor. If the electrician can use a brand that costs less, he makes more profit. Many electricians truly believe there is NO difference in any outlet, sound or otherwise, and are merely installing what they are instructed to do. If you cannot find Hubbell locally, Michael Percy Audio Products has them in stock, at a discount of $23.50 each. These are the correct ones for audio, and are rated at 20 amps. Mike can be reached at 415-669-7181 (voice) or 415-669-7558 (fax) he prefers orders via fax.

The posting by Sdcampbell and myself must have occurred at almost the same time. I went to the site he suggested and indeed, the Hubbell plugs there are cheaper. The reason is simple, these are the 15 amp version, and are not the 20 amp version I suggested. If you really want to go to the trouble and just save a few bucks, Mike Percy sells the 15 amp version for $8.95, rather than the $24.50 price for the better ones.

Does anyone have a specific model or part number for the Hubbell to help a fellow audiophile find them locally? I have seen the 20 amp Hubbell at Home Depot but I'd guess this is not the same as the unit referred to above. Thanks.

I believe the hospital grade Hubbell in the 20 amp. version, all copper, is the heavy duty model number 8300-I. I believe the "I" in the product code refers to "Ivory" color. It is not significant to the performance.

Thanks. Once we start arguing the color of plastic housings and sound quality, I will have to draw the line *grin*.

Right, we are not on a discussion topic about vinyl. The color of the vinyl used to manufacture LP's actually DOES affect the sound. Luckily, as you point out, the AC outlet color does not effect performance. If you mount an ivory outlet, centered in a black, brown or grey cover plate, it could effect what you "hear" about your stereo, if not the sound. (Hey, we are supposed to have SOME fun).

Aptly put and I'll second that colored vinyl.

Hey Alfred, are these the 8300 units you are referring to? http://www.needledoctor.com/accessories/isolation/hubbell.html

Lmb, that is (perhaps) the correct Hubbell, the heavy duty 20 amp version. The only remaining difference is the green dot on the face of the outlet, right beside the ground hole, an indication of dedicated ground, and not the case strap variety. I can only guess that the $4.55 difference between needledoctor and Mike Percy is that ground difference, or perhaps the cost for either version is the same, and needledoctor is cheaper? I have the version from Mike Percy, and it indeed sounded better than the ones I got from the electrical supply and better than other brands as well. Certainly the $18.95 Hubbells from needledoctor are the 20 amp version, so that part is absolutely correct. You would probably be in great shape with either version. However, there is only about $50.00 difference in the price of a dozen of these. You must decide if it is worth the risk. I honestly do not know.

To Albert Porter or Jctubes or anybody: I appreciate your input, but does a cheaper hospital grade plug with nickel plating or etc. sound worse, the same, or maybe a little better than an average everyday wall outlet? I know that I would have better results with a higher grade hospital outlet, but I am just wondering if I am worse off than before when I had an electrician change the average household outlets to the hospital grade outlets that he had on hand (probably a lower grade brand). Thanks, Edward

The first line of my initial posting on 09-04-00 was in response to that same question by you on 09-03-00. I think the plated Hospital grade would probably be better than the original household plug. Electrical outlets, like all things in life, get old and worn. I suspect that the upgrade to the new outlet alone would be significant. Any hospital grade plug will be constructed of heavier and higher quality materials, superior grounding and tighter grip on the male plug, reducing resistance and arcing. If you have a choice, go with the ones I suggested. If you have already spent your money and are getting good results, don't worry about it, change them out after you get some use from the ones you already have. One possible option to make use of the plated outlets (if you do have them) is to install them in other rooms. How about replacing the standard outlets in places where there is a heavy duty hair dryer, a computer or your TV? That would allow you to use what you have, and put the upgraded outlets in the sound system, where it does matter. Just an idea, best luck!

Does it really matter whether you use the 15A or 20A versions of the Hubbell? If you choose the 20A version, will it accept 15A powercords or will you need to change them as well? I have notice that on some powercords they use 15A male ends and a 10A IEC plug. Any thoughts?

This is much the same argument as to whether you should use Hubbell (male) connectors, rather than ordinary ones. The 20 amp version is heavier, provides tighter clamping action, additional contact area and rated for higher capacity. Those of us here at Audiogon that spend thousands of dollars on equipment should not concern ourself about such a small investment difference as the price spread between these two Hubbells. Just imagine that this Hubbell connection is part of your power supply in your expensive amp, preamp, CD transport etc. Then stop and realize, IT IS!

Thanks for the response. I would not have noticed the dedicated ground difference. I really wasn't looking to save $4.55, but rather the shipping. Heck add the two together and I am half to another unit. Really I was hoping I could locate one where I am. As far Hubbell is concerned, these are not "special" units and should be available locally with minimal effort. It is we audio nuts that have made them so.

Try Grainger, that is where I got mine.

Thank you Albertporter. Edward

I understand that Woodhead outlets have a higher and purer copper content than any hospital grade outlet. I understand that an audio dealer supposedly did extensive listening testing of some 40 or more different plugs and believes Woodhead to be superior. They sell retail for over $40 which is nearly double the Hubbel hospital grade. And apparently the Woodhead are not hospital grade since, for at least one thing, they do not have the plug retension properies that are required. Has anyone heard these? AlbertPorter?

I have Hubbell outlets available at 14.95 each + s/h. 4.00 for 1 2/3 for 5.00 4/5 for 6.00.This is one of those very reasonable tweaks that really works.I highly recomened them.Email for prices on case lot purchases.They come 10 to a box.

I bought some TWEAKED Hospital grade outlets! I bought some hospital grade outlets from Sergui ( interlinkhouse.com) He had them reworked. He had them silver plated and then gold plated. His price was great! unfortuntely I haven't install them yet. I am reworking an entire house's electrical system for my system. All dedicated 40 amp outlets with a star ground. I will let you know when i get it all put together!!! Email me if you want some more info!! later!!!!! Steve

I'm in the process of running two dedicated circuits. One for the amp and one for the front end. Is it recommended to only ground the preamp and run the rest of the equiptment ungrounded and ground to the preamp. I am going to run an isolated ground from an 8 ft. ground rod, so could both circuits use this common ground without creating a ground loop? Thanks

Commercial grade duplex outlets have the same contacts and construction as do hospital grade and can be had for around $3.40. Try Home Depot.

Is anyone familiar with Pass and Seymour hospital grade outlets? According to a local electrical supply house they are cross referenced to the Hubbel and rated at 20 amp 125 v. Dievoyager the commecial grade are a great improvement over the standard but I suspect for the price spread the hospital grade must have better parts and construction?

I don't doubt for a minute that you're all hearing something different with these various outlets and plugs. After all, I just assembled a threaded rod and mdf equipment rack and it made an astounding difference in soundstage as well as tonal balance. However,except for whatever changes are caused by the materials of a power cord, wouldn't we all be better off just continuing the romex direct to the equipment? Or going to the logical extreme, taking the amplifier out to the transformer, or driving across town to the generating plant? I vote for a direct connection from the housewiring to the power cord, sans plug. Any takers? (Please be kind, I work with wood)

The Pass & Seymours are recommended by Bob Crump of T.G. Audio. He has done extensive listening test with almost every available outlet and recommends the Pass & Seymour 5242. Cost, about $5.00 !!! What makes one outlet sound better than others is a factor of how the contact elements make physical contact with the blades on the AC plug and the materials used for insulation. I think that the insulating materials are what gives the outlets most of their sonic characteristics. I've been testing several outlets in my home because I've been building Bob Crumps DIY power cables. I've found that different outlets from the same manf. sound different even though the contact elements seem to be the same. The only difference seems to be the insulation materials so that is how I've come to this conclusion. As far as using straight Romex into the equipment, I would say part of the job of the power cord is shielding related. Going straight Romex would definintely eleminate any voltage drop across the cord but you would have a hell of time wiring 12Ga Solid Romex into you equipment. :) I would tend to agree with the idea though. No connector is the better than a direct connection.

Sorry to burst your bubbles guys. I used to work for Hubbell for a number of years. Their receptacles are truly built like tanks, with the highest of quality & will last forever. Although they are fairly expensive for what they are, (compared to competition) most architects spec them into their commercial buildings simply because they are trouble free. You will notice they make a solid connection to what ever is plugged into them & require a healthy amount of force to remove the inserted plug. Due to this solid connection you may hear a very very slight sonic improvement. That is if you really strain your ears, concentrate fully & of course the mood has got to be right (if you know what I mean). As far as hearing sonic differences between hospital grades & commercial grades, 15 amp & 20 amp receptacles, so on & so on, well...there would be virtually none. Hubbell never has & never will make any claim to thier receptacles making any audio sonic improvements. In fact, (no offense) the Hubbell engineers find the subject thier receptacles making sonic improvents to be quite amusing. The Marketing guys like it though!!!

Anybody tried the Wattagate? This puppy is about $75, roughly and it designed exclusively for Audio. Experience with this goodie? Anyone? Or is this some serious snake-oil?

I'm a little hesitant to ask this question, but while we're on the subject of audio grade outlets, does anyone know if there are specific brands or models of circuit breakers that provide audible improvements over the standard issue at most hardware stores? I've noticed some improvements by simply replacing some older circuit breakers with newer ones.

I bought a pair of power cords and a Pass and Seymour LP1 outlet from kevperro. The outlet stands above most tweaks I have tried in terms of improved imaging and cleaner, not softer, treble. The PC's made a subtle but audible improvement, the effect of the outlet was not subtle, probably because the one I replaced was so old and worn. One often hears the phrase "holographic mid-range"; but we also know that higher frequencies are more directional. Shouldn't it be true that improvements that are made to the highs are more important to imaging? There's a thread!

Kitch, it is definitely true. We got ourselves a pair of the plasma tweeters from a-capella to implement our ESL's and the improvement in imaging and in the placement of the individual instruments was quite amazing.