Help with NAD C320BEE brightness. Break-in???

I returned the NAD and purchased a NEW MODEL Jolida 1501 (Four months old – Silver faceplate) used on Audiogon for $500.00. This was the best choice I made for my room/system. To me the Jolida is a solid step-up in performance. Beautiful solid bass, warmer and detailed mids & highs. It's in the same ballpark sound wise, as my previous system -- Krell KSA 200s / McIntosh pre. set-up.

For $500.00 it would be hard to beat. Keep in mind this is the New Jolida 1501 with new factory upgrades as the standard. I am very happy to own the Jolida!!

I am driving a pair of Magnepan 3.6s with a C320BEE and the sound is glorious. This was suppose to be a temporary set up a little over a year ago while I procured an upper end digital amplifier but, the sound is so natural and sublime that I have been reluctant to change anything. Even the power is enough for my limited volume listening.

The C320BEE is a very good solid state integrated amplifier within its natural limitions. Much better than the price would indicate. A classic example of quality engineering no longer being a justification for an expensive product.

If you have brightness problems then take a hard look at your source. I am using a Jolida JD-100 and, the sound is awfully nice.

I don't think I'd squash down the top octaves with VD cables just yet. The NAD has a nice linear top end. Let it break in longer, and perhaps reassess room damping issues in the meantime, as well speaker toe-in/sidewall stuff.
I'm a firm believer in spectral tuning via transducer matching rather than cable coloring, except for very small adjustments. I use a Harm Tech Truthlink to soften FM birdies on my MD100, for example. The VD take too much of a treble cut, and therefore sacrifice much top end air, IMO.

you might want to give virtual dynamics cables a try. i recently bought the c320bee, and the virtual dynamics nite interconnects and speaker cables really make this unit come alive. i will be doing a mod to be able to use the nite power cord as well. the cables aren't cheap, but in my opinion, worth every penny.

Correction! My current monster interconnects are M350 or lower ... Some don't even have a number they just say J.r.

I think the break-in time will do wonders and some better I.C.s from the CD player. I never liked the way it was presented with any of my systems, clinical It's probably the combination of all these elements -- including my speaker cables. Most of the cabling that I'm running seems to be $40. to $65. Monster cable, including the I.C.'s from the CD player (1000.) I'm finally seeing my system as a whole instead of just single components connected -- including the interconnects. I've seen the light!!! Ha ha.

When I compare my NAD C 320BEE integrated to my Musical Fidelity A3 integrated (or my retired Adcom GTP500 II/GFA 545 preamp/amp combination), the NAD is slightly below the others in terms of smoothness and warmth ... but the NAD is still fine sounding. I found that upgrading the interconnects and speaker cables helped make the NAD sound more revealing and smoother. Still, the NAD only required modest costing cables and interconnects. I never thought about changing the jumpers and would just doubt that you would have the results that you are looking for (but, if you have good interconnects around ... give it a shot). Your Adcom is probably fine ... I am using a Pioneer PD65, which seems to mate well. If I remember your set-up correctly, you are using bookshelf SNELL speakers and are bi-wiring them, as well. Try the speakers without the bi-wiring (but inter-connect the like speaker leads with speaker cable as opposed to the supplied jumpers). Regards, Rich

Thanks for the responses so far. I guess it could be my cd player. It's an older Adcom GFA 600 or something like that. It got good reviews about 8 years ago and still works good. I'll admit it! I had to sell my Krell KSA 50s amp last month to fund a new house I'm finishing up.
I was looking for something inexpensive to replace it with and get similar sound. The Krell KSA 50s was sweet and warm. I'm pretty close to the KSA 50s sound, but am missing the warmth in the music. I'm looking for a tweak to get me closer. I do realize I can’t replace a $1300. amp with a $400. integrated and get the same sound, the C 320BEE is not to bad!

I think a little more break-in time will make a bigger difference than new jumpers or cables.

The "Missing Link" is an inexpensive/effective step to take.

In all honesty, replacing the jumpers with $100 interconnects on a $400 integrated amp, just doesn't sound right. I have been using the NAD C 320BEE for just about a year and have never found the sound "bright" sounding, not even out of the box. The NAD required some breaking in, but not an excessive amount (a week at most). Good quality interconnects and cables will help smooth out the sound. For example, with the NAD, I have had success with Signal Cable (Analog One Interconnects and Speaker Cables) and Better Cables (Silver Serpent) products ... and mixed results with Radio Shack Gold Series interconnects and mega speaker cables. My question would be what is your associated equipment ... as the NAD could be uncovering the brightness potential of another component. Regards, Rich