Help Building an Audio Room


Hi All

I have been allotted a 15x15 x 10h room in the corner of my basement by the wife.
While I’m very happy to have a dedicated audio room, I have some questions and concerns. I’m hoping you all might be able to help. 

1) Three of the walls are poured concrete.  The space has crazy slap eco already and the 4th/back wall is not even closed in yet.

I am having the walls framed in, insulated, electrical, drywall etc. I am thinking of having them frame and build one wall an additional distance off the cement wall some amount so the room is not a square

Is that a good idea?  If so, how much out of square does it need to be to benefit from not being 15x15? Is 15x14 enough? Should I go for 15x13?  I can set up the speakers about any way I would like. 
 

2) Next question.  Should I have them install a certain type of insulation behind the drywall?  Money is an object, but now is my chance to build the room the best way I can within reason and to offset the square room I’m starting with. 
 

3) Anything else I should consider before/as they begin to frame, etc? 
 

Thanks very much!
 

jo1mtb

Showing 2 responses by dlcockrum

@jo1mtb i am also preparing to build a dedicated two channel listening room in my basement with 10 foot ceiling height. I have spent 3 months researching everything from room dimensions for least problematic room modes to optimized wall construction methods for noise isolation/best acoustical performance to best dedicated electrical service practices. 

Here are a few suggestions to consider:

1) Room dimensions have a significant influence on room modes that will give you fits and require big investment in room treatments to try to reduce these “built in” problematic room modes. Bottom line is that a) square rooms are most undesirable, b) any dimension that is a direct multiple of any other creates overlapping axial modes (the most problematic type to treat), c) small changes in any dimension (even a few inches) can have a large effect on resulting room modes.

So, your proposed 15’ x 15’ x 10’ room size is really a big problem (violates a and b above). Even a 15’x 20’ x 10’ room would be a real problem with overlapping axial modes. One of the best ratios is 1.4 x 1.9 x 1. Given our fixed 10’ ceiling height, that would be a 14’ x 19’ x 10’ room. This is the room size I plan to build.

If you want to play with different room dimensions scenarios to see their resulting room mode behavior, try this tool (and also Bob Gold’s calculator):


 

2) After talking with several big name acoustic design companies, I have chosen ASC. Their technical folks are readily available for consultation (at no fee), are super helpful, and never try to push their products as the solution to every need. I also have concrete block walls on two sides on my planned room space. Their advice here was to build the framed walls at a least a few inches away from the concrete block to give air space for pressure to escape, also using insulation between studs and even plywood sheet on the outer side of the framing.

Since our master bedroom is directly above the planned listening room, sound isolation through the ceiling (both to and from he bedroom) is a major concern. After thoroughly investigating several options, I chose ASC’s ISO-Wall resilient channel system for the construction method for my room. Not only does ASC’s system provide excellent sound isolation, the resilient channel system allows the walls to act as controlled membranes to improve low bass room modes. You can get details on this system form their website or by calling ASC.

3) My conclusion on insulation was that the more expensive types (rock wool, etc) are a poor cost/benefit proposition over standard fiberglass insulation. It is the millions of small fibers with ample air space between them that perform the work on acoustic dampening, so loosely packed fiberglass insulation (R-13:or R-19) works great between the studs in your wall. Consider using 2” x 6”:lumber for wall studs in your construction - much stiffer than standard 2” x 4” studs ad only about 20% more expensive. 

4) As for room acoustical treatment, that is a whole big enigma unto itself. Beware of companies that push “more is better” and “one size fits all” recommendations. Room size and construction have a great deal of impact on how much interior room treatments will be necessary. Poor decisions on room dimensions and construction techniques will cost you much more in subsequent interior room treatments to deal with the undesirable room modes and resonances that will result.

Hope this helps!

@jo1mtb Glad to read that you are finding the AMROC tool useful. The BOLT area calculation is pretty cool. Suggest that you also run the proposed room dimensions through Bob Gold’s tool before you finalize. It is more in-depth and provides a little more complete analysis.

Re: WAF and room treatment/bass absorption, I recently read about a clever idea that might work for you: build a full-width closet at one end of the room (maybe instead of the bookcases?) with louvered bi-fold doors and fill it with acoustic batting material. Sort of a large hidden bass trap. The louvered doors would allow bass waves to enter the chamber while acting as a primitive diffusor for the highs and the interior volume would be pretty large (2’ deep X 15’ wide x 10’ tall = 300 cubic feet), providing effective low frequency absorption and would be completely out of sight and relatively inexpensive compared to standard in-room absorption products.