Have you tried a tube amp?
Several years ago I had a Rotel amp driving my speakers. Upgradeitis hit and bought B&W 804S. Big improvement in some ways but now I could hear the limitations of the Rotel.
I auditioned the speakers with some amps and like McIntosh. Final round was with McIntosh MC275 (tubes, 75W) and MC252 (solid state, 250W). I preferred the MC275, which I still have.
Later I added two Rythmiks 12" subs. BTW, they have aluminum cones (not paper) and are servo driven. Great addition.
Later I went active crossover. Now we are talking!! The MC275 drives tweeter and midrange with the passive xo in place. I removed the woofer to midrange passive xo and have Hypex 400W mono blocks driving the woofers directly, crossed at 80Hz to the subs with another active xo.
The heart of the system is a multi way DAC and Acourate software to do digital room correction. might sound like blasphemy to many, but it actually sounds better than ever before.
Cheers!
Several years ago I had a Rotel amp driving my speakers. Upgradeitis hit and bought B&W 804S. Big improvement in some ways but now I could hear the limitations of the Rotel.
I auditioned the speakers with some amps and like McIntosh. Final round was with McIntosh MC275 (tubes, 75W) and MC252 (solid state, 250W). I preferred the MC275, which I still have.
Later I added two Rythmiks 12" subs. BTW, they have aluminum cones (not paper) and are servo driven. Great addition.
Later I went active crossover. Now we are talking!! The MC275 drives tweeter and midrange with the passive xo in place. I removed the woofer to midrange passive xo and have Hypex 400W mono blocks driving the woofers directly, crossed at 80Hz to the subs with another active xo.
The heart of the system is a multi way DAC and Acourate software to do digital room correction. might sound like blasphemy to many, but it actually sounds better than ever before.
Cheers!