Has Anyone Here Tried The SVS Soundpath Feet On A Rel Sub?

The issue is the passive radiator is NOT loaded in a slot.

The way this sub is designed it is for ONE thing to "Jackhammer".

Simply said it is made to vibrate the whole friggin' house..
Stacked would really amplify and increase the transfer.
I can't think of a worse design for fidelity... 1970-80s bass tech. 

The height of the sub off the floor will remove the boundary and first reflection point for the passive on the bottom. It would dissipate much quicker and produce a different standing wave issue (not a problem though)

I would add a thick bottom plate, with a 3-4" slot. Then isolate it with springs from the floor.... Pretty simple fix. You can block any side or sides of the slot.

I'm surprised anyone uses this type of sub in a stereo environment, maybe HT or a kids trunk.

Even the kids are learning to decouple 100hz < from the interior of their cars. It stops them from rattling apart "as bad". That's right SPRINGS between the bottom and top of the sub boxes with slot loaded, passive slots or IB (no ports).

Regards

When you couple ANY frequency to anything other than the driver and its cabinet you get at least two different signals at two different times.

You can do it that way if you like the outcome, BUT the fact is it will be smeared.

The floor (no matter the construction) will deliver a BASS signal faster than the driver can push air.. In the seated position you will FEEL the signal before you hear it..

If that is what you like, then, that is what you like.. I don’t.. Never have..

Spike have NEVER worked.. They kind of work on a TT only because the rest of the TT shelf is isolated on air, springs or pods...

I worked around foundational ground support for to many years, there is no such thing as solid enough.. Everything moves, Everything vibrates..

How much is the question...

You will NEVER see a power plant spiked in a stationary spot. EVER they are isolated if not they would BREAK.

You don’t ask people who build speakers how to isolate things, you ask people who isolate Buildings and Bridges how to do it when there is an earthquake going on..

No need to play catchup, just READ how everyone else on the planet isolates STUFF.. Speakers are easy. People who DON’T know squat about destructive harmonics, need to learn a thing or two, first, before making statements like spikes work. They do something, just not a good thing, compared to isolation.

HD Field Mechanic Retired. Hydraulics.

You just think you know about vibration and dampening...

Regards

I think ill go with what the designers and engineers at Rel suggest to do as opposed to listenng to posters on this site.

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Quite a few people bought the Edsel too. Was it a BAD design?

Push button gear select? You tell me.. stupid name for sure.

Just because a manufacture pumps out subs, doesn’t mean the design is great for all application..

Like I said. Jackhammer, the bottom fire passive without a butt plate is total KID stuff.. 1970-80 tech.. HT maybe... You CAN’T decouple that type of sub... It has to be in a slot.. or not at all and move the passive to the sides or even the top and spring load or air ride the bottom..

Mine are better, by no small margin, pure and simple. GRs servo system is really good to.. When you build them, you learn.. hopefully..

When you sell them.. LOL there is a price point. ADDING a bottom plate is expensive.. LOL 20.00 at least. And then isolation.. 50.00 MORE for a REAL stereo system sub..

 Not a REL, though it is good looking.. I could make it work correctly for ME..

Regards