Google " Ask a Hafler Technician "
17 responses Add your response
I want to thank the three of you for your responses, as well as the generous offers to install the switch for free. Unfortunately, I am in New York. As for speaking to a Hafler technician, I did contact Hafler and was told that whatever info they have available, is on their website, however, a service manual for the 9130 is not available. As for speaking to a technician, I was told that without a specific working knowledge of the amp in question, they would not comment on how to install the switch. Would it be possible for one of you to send me simple written instructions or advise if I am on the right track. My perception is that the switch simply plugs in to an internal socket that is hidden by the front face plate. But not knowing for sure that removing the face plate will gain me access is why I did not proceed on my own. |
I've never repaired a 9130, but just looked online and found a few images... The Power switch wiring has plugs on it, simply unplug the unit, take the top off, Hold your new switch next to your old, remove and exchange the wiring from the old switch to the same position on the new switch. I can't see the mounting, but it can't be much... A couple of screws, replace the in reverse order. I bet you are more capable than you are giving yourself credit. Go for it, it'll be done before you know what happened. |
Remove the top plate and you’ll find the switch’s wiring has double-crimp disconnects. Possibly- a capacitor(.01uF), across two of the terminals, to minimize turn-on transients. Before removal, annotate the wiring and switch orientation(ie: LED on the bottom of the rocker). Once you remove the wires, you’ll find expanding retainers on the switch body. Compress those, and the switch should easily push out, through the front plate. Reverse that order, to reassemble. |
Remove the top plate and you’ll find the switch’s wiring has double-crimp disconnects. Possibly- a capacitor(.01uF), across two of the terminals, to minimize turn-on transients. Before removal, annotate the wiring and switch orientation(ie: LED on the bottom of the rocker). Once you remove the wires, you’ll find expanding retainers on the switch body. Compress those, and the switch should easily push out, through the front plate. Reverse that order, to reassemble.The expanding retainers are on the side of the switch. Just push relatively hard and the like rodman stated, it pushes out from the faceplate (push from the inside out). The new just snaps back into the faceplate from the outside in. |
Here is a picture of the power switch. The retainers are on the top and bottom as the switch sits vertical in the faceplate. http://livedoor.blogimg.jp/taken81/imgs/6/b/6b8faaba.jpg http://livedoor.blogimg.jp/taken81/imgs/5/7/57eb6f12.jpg |
No- those would be gain/input level controls, without which you will get full input level(no attenuation), assuming the pots were simply bypassed. You should find wiring, from the input RCAs to the circuit board. One connection close to a 2.2uF cap and another to a ground point(which may also be on the circuit board, or the Stereo/Mono switch), for both the L & R inputs, of course. If I had a professional amp, that I intended to use for home audio, bypassing those would be my first tweak. See page 8, for info on the gain controls: http://www.hafler.com/pdf/archive/9130_amp_man.pdf |