Graham Phantom mk II & JA Michelle ORBE se help

Thanks for the advice. I see I'm not alone. Mr. Graham should mention that with a slight modification the SME would be a drop in replacement. I've had a Graham 1.5t for 17 years on my SOTA Star Saphire and now on a JA Michelle ORBE II se. I un mounted the arm, positioned it using the Graham arm wand and alignment spindle adapter. Marked and redrilled the arm board. It was not difficult, just a pita. I wanted the SME mount because its more universal and the (to and fro) movement of the entire unit helps to get the precise position for a spot on alignment.

Now the good news. One of the most significant upgrades I've ever made. WOW.

Frank C: I considered that, but, I'm not sure it could be refitted. My dealer would have to get involved and I really like the SME mount for the reasons stated above.

So, I've also been considering to add a Graham Phantom arm to the other mouse ear of my Orbe SE. The SE version is the "nake" version and does not have the acrylic platform/cover. What is the best way to do this?

1. Get a Phantom w/ SME mount, and use an SME armboard from Michell?
2. Get a Phantom w/ Graham mount, and get a Graham armboard from Michell?

FrankC

I just noticed this thread, a week or two later. Just to clarify, the word "drop-in" is, I see I should explain more bluntly, conditional on the turntable having things exactly as SME themselves do; i.e., position the direction of the slot so that the counterweight clears the VTA tower at all times.

I designed both the 2.x and Phantom arms on an SME turntable (SME-30/II) and so I know that works. Other manufactuers who have consulted me for proper angles (SOTA, Basis, and others) also get it right. I thought Michell had worked this out too, but apparently not.

The relationship of the parts in a unipivot like this one require careful placement of the angle cutout. If it's done correctly, then it is a "drop-in"; otherwise, like other arms and tables being matched up, it may take a bit of work.

Thanks to Jimi_p for his comments regarding the final performance. Working a bit to get it right is often well worth it!

- Bob Graham

Hello Audiodany, could you explain what 'the wrong front mark' is on your Michell armboard, don't think mine has this:

...O.............O
.
..........o o
..........o o
.
...........O

As long as I position it like this the only problem is a bit of a tight squeeze with the counterweight against the vta post when setting the pivot to spindle distance

Zargon, could you tell me how re-drilling the board will help

The main problem is the Orbe likes to have a combined tonearm + Michell armboard weight of about 1kg, anything significantly over/under then suspension setup is a pain and is compromised. My armboard has always been too heavy with my 2.2 so I've just had it machined thinner - better but still too heavy, I have ordered an acrylic armboard from Michell.

It's my understanding that the Phantom is heavier than the 2.2 so are owners using Michell acrylic armboards? How is the suspension with the Phantom?

Lastly, what tonearm cable are Michell/Graham users using? and do you have enough clearance between the Graham output post and the turntable?

Thanks

Ade

Hi Ade
My problem was the sticker "front" attached under the armboard.
Now my armboard is mounted like your plan ( but sticker "front" is always under the actually right hole
...O.............OX this was marked like"front"
..........o o
..........o o
.
...........O
I'ven't got any problem about the arm weight. I've found a stable level relatively easily, with no great difference between spring's charge. Other matter was the DIN connector clearance: space is narrow, very narrow! I've a Synergistic Resaearch Tricon Phono ( great cable!!) but it was a fight to stick it in place! The only advantage is that I'll never try another phono cable, I think, for a long long time :-)))