Disclaimer.. I rebuild Garrards.
To convert to 120v 60hz, remove the nut which holds the plastic cover on the wiring block on the lower end of the motor. Look for the 2 wire or metal bar, 'jumper straps'. There are 4 metal contact 'posts'. The jumpers are connected to these. For 120v, each of these two outer sets of posts should be connected with a jumper. Coming from the UK, or Europe, the jumpers are most likely both connected to the center two posts, with the outer two posts left untouched. If you get it wrong, the motor will run slowly.
For the idler wheel, there is a chance that yours is still good. It should have no pitting, or flat spots, or any other visible flaws. With the motor running and platter spinning, when you hold your ear, or a stethoscope to the chassis, or to the plinth, if you hear a thumping sound, or other irregular sound, the idler wheel is a possible culprit. The aftermarket idler wheels seem like a good idea, but in my experience, the quietest combination I have found, are original idlers in good condition, with the idler bushings replaced. Replacing the idler carrier bushings is relatively straightforward, but because that casting is not a precision piece, alignment can be an issue when replacing them, also being sure to seat them to the correct depth. You should feel very little play, almost none, in the idler wheel when the bushings are good, but the wheel should still turn freely.
If you decide to replace the idler wheel with an aftermarket one, be sure to listen with your ear pressed to the plinth, or to the chassis, or ideally, with a stethoscope, before and after. you will know immediately if you made a good decision or not. Personally, I recommend replacing the bushings and listening for noise in the idler. You may lack the experience for a proper judgement call, but often, the original is quietest. In a Garrard in good condition, the idler wheel assembly is the single biggest source of noise. Very delicate adjustments can make a big difference. The idler wheel takes noise from the pulley surface, from the motor and motor shaft, and delivers it directly to the platter.
For the motor, somewhere on the internet there are a couple of write ups for servicing the motor and checking the coils. In the process of finding these articles, you will likely also find other good info.
Servicing a Garrard looks deceptively simple. Yes, a mechanically inclined person can strip it down and put it back together pretty easily. There is a learning curve, and getting optimum performance (quiet) from the deck requires experience.
Another note, if you remove the power switch assembly from the underside of the deck, take care not to disassemble it, unless you are prepared for a can of worms. The switch assembly on the raised strobe version has contacts inside that are often very close to failure due to the design. I have seen several sets that were just 'hanging by a thread'. repairing these is a delicate job. If the switch is working, careful about opening it up, for either the raised strobe, or the flush strobe model.
A powerful Ultrasonic cleaner is a great tool for servicing these decks. With a large one, everything including the platter and chassis can be very effectively cleaned. The little ultrasonic cleaners are pretty much a joke and not worth messing with.
To convert to 120v 60hz, remove the nut which holds the plastic cover on the wiring block on the lower end of the motor. Look for the 2 wire or metal bar, 'jumper straps'. There are 4 metal contact 'posts'. The jumpers are connected to these. For 120v, each of these two outer sets of posts should be connected with a jumper. Coming from the UK, or Europe, the jumpers are most likely both connected to the center two posts, with the outer two posts left untouched. If you get it wrong, the motor will run slowly.
For the idler wheel, there is a chance that yours is still good. It should have no pitting, or flat spots, or any other visible flaws. With the motor running and platter spinning, when you hold your ear, or a stethoscope to the chassis, or to the plinth, if you hear a thumping sound, or other irregular sound, the idler wheel is a possible culprit. The aftermarket idler wheels seem like a good idea, but in my experience, the quietest combination I have found, are original idlers in good condition, with the idler bushings replaced. Replacing the idler carrier bushings is relatively straightforward, but because that casting is not a precision piece, alignment can be an issue when replacing them, also being sure to seat them to the correct depth. You should feel very little play, almost none, in the idler wheel when the bushings are good, but the wheel should still turn freely.
If you decide to replace the idler wheel with an aftermarket one, be sure to listen with your ear pressed to the plinth, or to the chassis, or ideally, with a stethoscope, before and after. you will know immediately if you made a good decision or not. Personally, I recommend replacing the bushings and listening for noise in the idler. You may lack the experience for a proper judgement call, but often, the original is quietest. In a Garrard in good condition, the idler wheel assembly is the single biggest source of noise. Very delicate adjustments can make a big difference. The idler wheel takes noise from the pulley surface, from the motor and motor shaft, and delivers it directly to the platter.
For the motor, somewhere on the internet there are a couple of write ups for servicing the motor and checking the coils. In the process of finding these articles, you will likely also find other good info.
Servicing a Garrard looks deceptively simple. Yes, a mechanically inclined person can strip it down and put it back together pretty easily. There is a learning curve, and getting optimum performance (quiet) from the deck requires experience.
Another note, if you remove the power switch assembly from the underside of the deck, take care not to disassemble it, unless you are prepared for a can of worms. The switch assembly on the raised strobe version has contacts inside that are often very close to failure due to the design. I have seen several sets that were just 'hanging by a thread'. repairing these is a delicate job. If the switch is working, careful about opening it up, for either the raised strobe, or the flush strobe model.
A powerful Ultrasonic cleaner is a great tool for servicing these decks. With a large one, everything including the platter and chassis can be very effectively cleaned. The little ultrasonic cleaners are pretty much a joke and not worth messing with.