garrard 301 - how to polish chassis paint.

Hi, the sun’s rays and light make the colors yellow; I don’t think there are products to make the frame white again.
If, on the other hand, the frame has only lost its original luster, a good polish product for car bodies is the right solution.
But be careful if originally the color wanted by the manufacturer was opaque (not shiny) the car polish will make the paint shine and would no longer be original.
I've seen a few garrard 301 401 in the past but you'd better show some photos with the problem.

I’ve used this plastic polish with a microfiber cloth on numerous surfaces with excellent results. I’m sure it’s nowhere as aggressive as an automotive polish. Obviously, it needs to be very gentle for plastic.

https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=asc_df_B002UCYRZU/?tag=hyprod...

So the plastic polish is a good solution for what looks like car paint in my garrard?

@elizabeth


Scratch X from Meguiar’s removes minor and medium scratches and is therefore a much more abrasive " strong compound" than a normal polish, wanting to choose Meguiar’s there is the polish for metallic paints "color X" which is slightly abrasive.

Menzerna 2500  https://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-power-finish.html and a soft cloth. I suspect the yellowing goes deeper than you can polish off. In which case you will have to take the table apart, sand blast it and refinish. I would have it powder coated.

Just clean it.  Normal yellowing due to aging and exposure to sunlight is called "patina", and it's in vogue these days in all areas of collecting.  Now, do you have a question about the function of the turntable per se?

Thanks for all your responses. 
Lewm, I will clean it and see how it looks; dont know if I will like the  "patina" until I finish the cleaning process, but will keep you posted for sure.
I have another 301 that I bought totally refurbished so I know the TT. What I'm trying is to do the refurbish process by myself and not send it to a profesional. I know that a profesional will perform a better job, but will loose the fun of doing it bymyself.  I have done that with a Thorens 124, but seems like that was way much easier that the 301.   Any links or videos will be appreciated.

bestgroove is correct, UV light will cause resinous plastics to yellow. For some resins, the hardening component (by itself) when exposed to UV will turn Canary yellow ! These resins are very high quality but have this Achilles heel. Dab on (inconspicuous area) some Clorox bleach with a small tip artist brush. Let it go to dry, buff off and check the results. If it works, it won’t be a permanent solution, there’s no way to stop the yellowing. Or, just leave it be. Patina is kind of a badge of honor IMO.

Thanks for the tip ubbcbus

  Dab on (inconspicuous area) some Clorox bleach with a small tip artist brush. Let it go to dry, buff off and check the results. If it works, it won’t be a permanent solution, there’s no way to stop the yellowing. Or, just leave it be. Patina is kind of a badge of honor IMO.

good idea

Will try it. Thanks