Flag Doohickey to Indicate Status of Tonearm Lever


Last night, I forgot to turn the tonearm lever in the up position after a record finished playing.  This caused a problem when I went to play another record and the tonearm clumsily landed on the record.  Luckily, it didn't land too hard, but I can foresee issues as all it takes is that one time. Besides the obvious of making sure the lever is down each time, what do you guys and gals do to ensure that the lever is down at all times?  I was thinking of a visible flag indicator doohickey of some sort to let me know if the lever is in the up or down position, but no luck in a web search. I also thought about leaving the lever in the down position all the time and just manually lowering on the record each time - kinda defeats the purpose of having an arm lift but might be a potential solution.

Let me know if you guys and gals do.

Thanks in advance.

 

rdk777

Showing 2 responses by yeti42

For years I used an arm that didn’t have a cuing lever. There is a rod on a post to rest it on when not on a record. At one point I bought an aftermarket cuing lever for it and it worked OK but did have a slight effect on sound quality and by then I’d got used to manual cuing and plucking the arm off the record at the end of the side.

My next arm does have a lever and usually no finger lift (I have one cartridge plate out of four that has one attached), I leave the lever in the up position when not playing a record. A while ago the cuing device started slowly sinking from the up position over about a minute or two I think due to an airlock. The arm builder, Frank Schröder, sent me a replacement but the first one got lost in the post so this took a while. It is possible to manually cue without a finger lift but it takes two hands, one resting on the plinth to the steady the other while lowering the arm. I probably couldn’t do it on a plinth less deck.

Since the sinking episode I’ve got in the habit of checking which way the lever is pointing before moving the arm.

@mijostyn , thank you but my current cartridge, SPU Royal N, sounds best when the screw securing the plate to the wand is just tight enough to hold it’s position!, less than 2Ncm if I can believe my torque driver, which I don’t at that level. The counterweight grub screw is also easy to over tighten, I spent a long time optimising both. I don’t need to add leverage to my brass plate. 

The reference arm is a pain in the arse to set up and worth every bit of it.