external crossover when bi amping?

Thanks for your input on this topic. I asked this question because I have an extra amp and wanted to try biamping. The speakers in question are 2 way monitors with 2 pairs of binding posts. I have replaced the metal jumpers between the binding posts with 14 gauge 65 strand OFC speaker wire. This resulted in a brighter sound, but a little to bright with some sources. Now on a rainy day I want to try biamping. The point of level matching of the woofer and tweeter is one that I overlooked. How do you get this right? Is it trial and error or can you use a sound level meter and test tones? I have read that some people only biwire (not biamp) their speakers to seperate the high and low frequencies in the cables feeding the speakers. If this is done it seems that you would have to use an external crossover and bypass the internal crossover. What would be the point of biwiring with 2 pairs of cables connected to 1 pair of full range (20hz to 20khz) binding posts on an amp? It seems that you would only be duplicating your existing connection. You would still have a full range signal going through both sets of cables. Am I missing something in this equasion?

Hmm...I responded to this yesterday, but it's not here, and that's not the 1st time that's happened. This wait-for-the-full-time-babysitter-and-sometimes-your-stuff-doesn't-show policy of A-goN is highly annoying.

1. I'd replace your stranded jumpers with SHORT pieces of solid 14g. copper household wiring.
2. One certainly can adjust the frequency balance using tools, but we all still end up tweaking it by ear.
3. "What would be the point of biwiring with 2 pairs of cables connected to 1 pair of full range (20hz to 20khz) binding posts on an amp? It seems that you would only be duplicating your existing connection." The point is to use the speaker's crossover to split the frequencies in the cables. The 2 cables may be connected to the same driving terminals, but each cable see hugely different impedances by frequency, so the, say, treble cable of a 2-way is carrying little midrange and virtually no bass, and the bass/MR cable of that 2-way carries very little treble. When I had 2-way speakers with high crossover (as the vast majority of 2-ways are), I used Audioquest KE-6, a 4-pairs-of-solid-silver DBS cable on the bass/MR, and KE-4, a 2-pairs-of-silver DBS cable on the treble. That double cable is now driving my full-range Quad 989s in parallel. (Had I started with the Quads, I would have used just the KE-6.) In a 3-way with low crossover, the bass cable carries little midrange and virtually no treble, so the conductors don't have to be as high in quality but there has to be a lots of them for good bass damping. The MR/treble cable carries the vast majority of the music and should be as high in quality as you can afford. On my center-channel 3-way, I use quite-inexpensive AQ Type 6 on the bass and that great KE-6 on the MR/treble. Biwiring, too, can be complicated, and what cable to use or even whether to do it is quite contentious here.

So with biamping, you get BOTH sets of issues montioned above, besides the possibly complicated issues of which amps to buy and use. Based on what I've read over the decades, I'd say that most audiofiles who STAY with bi- or triamping use amps specially suited to the frequency bands they amplify.
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i have jbl l-7s that i want to biamp but am a little confused.The jbl supplement for the l-7s say have your jbl dealer make a modification.i have 2 hafler dh 200s one to the lf and the other to the lf/mfs.this isa 4 way system.i guess the way i did it was a horizontal biamp and i believe it can be done vertically also.which one is better and am i screwing anything up with my hookup.i am using a rotel preamp with 2 outputs to the amps.appreciate any thoughts.i also have 2 hafler dh 500s that i would love to try but only with proper connections