@ct0517
Chris,
My comment regarding your
Verdier was unadulterated envy. I confess my infatuation with the 301's is in large part visual. Current projections indicate when all said and done I should have less than $2500 in it with total mechanical refurb, very nice solid wood plinth (furniture) and a nearly new arm. The paint on the chassis is nearly mint so no expense for a paint job.
When my project is complete I hope it provides enjoyable listening too.
I suspect I will end up with cartridges that tend more to the vintage sound than my Delos and VDH Black Beauty.. Perhaps even some MM or MI, but the proof will be in the listening.
Harry
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vpi - cost is no object. Harry -the vintage Platine Granito is pure machine. Every part has its purpose. There are $25k Garrard setups being sold. How much of that cost - percentage - is in getting that finished furniture/car look on those plinths ? Sorry but could not resist ..... Design is important. But when it comes to TT setups. A well setup less cost TT can out perform a more expensive one that is not set up right. Its not plug and play as we know. But in the end based on my experiences, and in all my hobbies not just this one, the better design has the most potential when done right. |
shfinne -
I ended up using all 40g leads on a 10g cartridges and with 2.5 g tracking
the lead mounted on the outside of the I-beam and the rood pointing inwards the I end up mid on the I-beam scale. As kids, the teeter totter taught us good physics lessons. Remember trying to ride it with an adult. They had to sit up in front of the seat closer to the midpoint of the beam. It was no fun this way. Even worse when they did sit in the seat, were in control, and were nasty and jumped off quickly, allowing us to fall to the ground fast and hard.The teeter totter is the most fun when both riders are on the end of the seats, same weight.. Option One Start losing the bodies (lead) off the end of the plank, to get to the highest number on the I Beam. This is documented in the manual. This will give your cartridge the highest vertical inertia. Option Two - preferred. Get the new long I beam, and with the help of physics, you will need 1/2 the lead or less, to attain the same result. My XV1 is 12.6 grams. |
Well no big surprise that I have a alert on ET2 on ebay ;)))))))
but my problem is that I only need the arm (second ))))
no pump
by the way I have a
wise air pump left over more or less new
Moved the air pump up in the loft with tank and 10 m hose down
runs it at 14 psi and the wise pump not able to do that job. so now I use a big ugly and noisy air brush pump. Cant hear it and air stream very stable The long hose help a lot i think.
But thing the micro seiki need to come up first.so all safe for some time ;-)
All part for the test rig ordered.
planing to start disassemble and CLEAN the arm next week.
Any in here with the high mass arm ??
any improvement on 12-10 comp cartridges??
I ended up using all 40g leads on a 10g cartridges and with 2.5 g tracking
the lead mounted on the outside of the I-beam and the rood pointing inwards the I end up mid on the I-beam scale
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@ct0517
Thanks for the encouragement Chris.
"What you are doing Harry is a healthy audiophile exercise."
Healthy!? Healthy!? Sure not healthy for my wallet :). But, damn, it's fun. I'm very anxious to get the plinth and have the TT refurbed and mounted.
Of course for a guy with a Verdier cost is no object. Tee Hee.
Cheers,
Harry
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If nothing else I can stare at my Garrard with Ortofon while I listen to my VPI with ET II. If me Harry, I would first put your ET II on the Garrard using the quick install technique I described; then you can hear for yourself what the Garrard (the table itself) brings to the table. Apples to Apples. Anyway, that is what I did with my Jean Nantais Lenco. It actually came with the Dynavector tonearm. Jean Nantais’ preferred tonearm. An impressive, freaky looking thing that Dyna tonearm. He was surprised when I sent him pics of the table with the ET 2.5 on it. hah hah So my JN Lenco table is just sitting there, can be stared at as you say. It doesn’t bother me, not using it, because unlike digital DAC’s and CD players, it holds its value.....these days better than my oil stocks ! So I haven’t sold it off yet. Record players are so in vogue. IMO - What you are doing Harry is a healthy audiophile exercise. I was happy enough with my at the time TNT TT, but My JN Lenco Idler table upped the game in a couple areas and forced me to make improvements to the modded TNT (adding thread), and also my SP10 DD setup (better isolation). So for a time the JN lenco, with the 2nd ETII on it, became a reference point for me. It’s been quite a number of years now . The JN table can be sent to him in Ottawa to have the latest updates made to it, but the delta that exists with the Verdier is just too large, for me, so I have not bothered doing it. |
@slaw @ct0517
Yes, the solid plinths are outrageous. Found a source in Austria that is about half what the US sources get. It will be about a month to get the plinth then it's off to STS turntables in Nashville for refurb.
I decided on an Ortofon TA 110 arm. Please don't excommunicate me. I'm keeping my ET II. If nothing else I can stare at my Garrard with Ortofon while I listen to my VPI with ET II.
@frogman
No competition from me on the next ET II on EBay.......at least for a while.
Cheers,
Harry |
@ct517 the design difference has for shure not escaped me - "interesting differences" indeed!
But in regard of horizontal mass, the degrees of freedom of the air bearing (not the details of bearing tolerance and pressure) and its placement relative to the subchassis and platter, they are very similar. That's the point. And this is relevant regarding suboptimal drive pairings.
It's no accident that VPI and many VPI users have converted their originally suspended chassis towards rigid or semi-rigid subchassis coupling, similar to many of the newer (post 2000?) turntable designs.
This design change seems to be of sonical advantage (in general) already for conventional arms – my experience ist that this is even more true with air bearing arms.Interestingly, if one considers the Trans-Fi design or the Opus 3 Cantus and simlar "short arms", they reduce this sensitivity to rotational modes of a subchassis, because the rotational force on the subchassis pulls more along the arm instead of lateral. |
Since it comes to me at no cost I can spend some $$ on an arm.
The plinth is not an issue as I will be replacing the original Garrard plinth. Perhaps with a new plinth it would even accommodate an ET II, but I’d like to hear your opinions.
Hi Harry - for some reason, I am reminded of the guy that has an ad in the "For Sale Boat Section"; This guy is offering a free boat, but he wants $1500 for the trailer. The boat needs a new floor and seats. But the engine is ok. Not many people I know, know how to do upholstery. 8^0 A proper idler plinth is $$$$. Unless you have a shop and plinth building skills, unlike a self contained DD unit which leaves many options, there is a learning curve with a idler. He had a 301 mounted in (believe it or not) a huge butcher block." 8^0 One way to deal with those idler vibrations. I went down this path myself years ago Harry. Its exciting but I did not have the time, the shop, to acquire the learning curve. I let someone else do the legwork for me. Jean Nantais. Google him if not familiar with the name and my sample is shown in a few pics on my virtual system. See Pic 10 with the ET II on it. My table has an interesting history. It was JN’s personal table at one point. I bought it off a friend of his. ************ Me thinks Frogman will have competition from Styrk and Harry on the next ET 2.5 auction - 8^0 Happy B Day Harry - my B day is this week as well. ************ Pegasus
On the website of the Adanalog MG1 arm – which is similar to the ET2 Pegasus from what I see the MG1 has a moving manifold. The ET2’s manifold is stationary. Just this difference brings very different design considerations. Apples and Oranges. |
@pegasus ,
I made a mark on it’s center resting plate for my own peace of mind..
Check out the Rega at the Cable Co website... I think you’ll be impressed! It seems that everything about a scales' construction/accuracy has been rethought and addressed.
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@slaw: Regarding Mapleshade scale - as much as I like it's precision, it is always drifting slightly (besides the necessity to place the needle at exactly the same spot).Thinking about it, I dream about a solid 5kg linear low noise power supply to feed the scale and to be placed on the subchassis while measuring :-) |
@pegasus ,
Your post reminds me of some of the possible adverse affects of a suspended (spring especially) plinth TT used in conjunction with the ET. I believe this was THE major pitfall I encountered through all of my iterations of the HW-19 and all of the upgrades I did to it and my ultimately going in another direction for a while. I do not regret my learning experience one bit.
(In your last post, I noticed you referred to the Mapleshade scale. I’ve used it for years).
I do admit that after watching MF’s Rega factory tour several months back, one (of the many things) that struck me was their development of an extremely accurate scale! I’ve been waiting for it to come to market. Finally, It’s here! I have one on it’s way to me now.
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- Regarding I-beam and weights: I often used BluTak to adjust or increase the counterweight mass to a certain degree and never felt it was compromising the sound in any way. I also form tiny balls of ca. 0.05g (or less) to precisely adjust the VTF in a repeatable way (by putting on and taking them away). For this I measure these balls on a 0.01 precise Mapleshade scale. BluTak is simple & very practical.
- On the website of the Adanalog MG1 arm – which is similar to the ET2 – several of the user images show Lenco drives with new plinths, and I heard very good sounds from a Lenco / Reinders PTP / limestone plinth with an MG1 arm.
In my experience idler wheel or direct drives work very very good for air bearing arms, ie. optimal. (Better in my system than a very good Merrill Heirloom, a medium weight belt / subchassis ET 2 combo).
- I think this has to do with the tendency of a belted subchassis to slightly (counter-) rotate around the platter axis at low subsonic frequencies and the way this continually decenters the air bearing a bit, compromising (to a certain degree) bass quality and others. The very low horizontal resonance of air bearing arms adds to that effect.
A radial arm has the center of its horizontal mass (almost) in the rigidly placed bearing and so the cartridge/arm combo is not displaced by horizontal accelaration (or much, much less). |
@frogman,
It wasn’t directed at you or anyone.
I look forward to your impressions.
@vpi,
I don’t have any specific recommendations for you. I assume the S-shaped arms are shaped this way to provide more mass that would have complimented the majority of cartridges of that era? I’m envious!
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Yes, I know this is an ET II forum but I can't restrain my recent good fortune. A family member just gave me a Garrard 301 for my birthday. It is complete with a Garrard arm. As much as I love my VPI HW 19 (which I will keep and become a two turntable kind'a guy), this is a turntable I have lusted after for nearly 40 years. Since it comes to me at no cost I can spend some $$ on an arm. I know that while Chris is reluctant to admit it, he does have some pivoted arms. Do y'all have any recommendations for an arm for this table. The plinth is not an issue as I will be replacing the original Garrard plinth. Perhaps with a new plinth it would even accommodate an ET II, but I'd like to hear your opinions.
NOSTALGIA
Many years ago there was a high end store in Soutn Dade county, Florida run by a very eccentric owner (I think his name was Larry). He had a 301 mounted in (believe it or not) a huge butcher block. One of those that is a freestanding table that sits in the middle of your kitchen. Not sure what arm he was running, but it was S shaped - probably an SME. I have no recollection of the cartridge he was using but I have a long standing recollection that, at the time (40 years ago), it was the best sounding vinyl I had ever heard.
Harry |
Not sure if your last post was intended for me or not, Slaw. In the event it wasn’t or you still want company:
Well, work being what it is for me this time of year and some relatively expected life/family issues, I’ve had practically no time to “play” with my system, so the two (single and double spring) long I-beams that I received from Bruce are still sitting unused and lonely. My impressions of my home-brew I-beam from a few years back may not be entirely relevant for obvious reasons, but the use of blu-tack should work the same way on the “official” beams. I will certainly respond when I can do some critical listening using them.
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@slaw
For some reason, several months back Bruce took out the link to all of the upgrade parts for the ET II. But I think they are all still available. Just email him and he will be very helpful.
In fact if you google ET II magnesium arm or ET II carbon fiber arm you will find pages with them on there. You just can't get there from Bruce's main site.
Harry
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I'll go alone. Thank you.
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@frogman,
Have you been able to make any conclusions regarding the long -beams you mentioned earlier?
Thanks...
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Blu-Tack. What I used some time ago on my home brew balsa wood long I-beam. Not as elegant as a machined weight, but works great since it allows you to use just the right amount to balance even the lightest cartridge while putting the weight at the very end of the I-beam.
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@vpi,
You're kidding..right? Although I knew you weren't Harry in disguise, I just figured it was obvious..
Happy Listening!
I was looking on the ET website... no mention of the "aluminum joint" (armwand to spindle) mount. or the long I-beams. Are these items one offs?
I'm starting to get interested again.
I'll contact Bruce if no response in forthcoming.
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@slaw
Well..........I had never thought about that coincidence. But now that you mention it, it is kind of ironic. I promise I am not Harry W in disguise. I have enjoyed my VPI HW 19 (now MK IV) for over 20 years so VPI seemed an appropriate moniker especially since the HW 19 is so well suited to the ET II.
Harry
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@ct0517
Chris,
Thought you and others might be interested in these two exchanges I had with Bruce about a lighter base weight. Perhaps, if the folks here on this forum make enough noise with Bruce he will make us some light base weights.
Harry
On 2/15/2018 4:37 PM, Harry wrote:
> Hello Bruce,
> Rumor has it over on the Audiogon forum you are working on a lighter base weight to accommodate the long I-Beam with lighter weight cartridges. This to get weight near the end of the I-Beam. Any idea when they will be available and price? I’d like to purchase one.
Harry,
We are not working on a lighter base weight, the existing base weight should be ideal for most applications, Chris had a very light cartridge and I sent him a smaller weight to test.
Are people finding that the base weight is too much? Thanks
-brucet
This in response to the picture I sent him of the weight I made.
Harry,
That looks nice, if there is enough demand we can make a few weights, there has been good demand for the long I-beam.
If the weight is heavier than the wand plus cartridge, it should be positioned on the inside of the I beam, if it is lighter, it should be positioned on the outside of the I beam away from the manifold as shown in your photo. You might add that information to you description.
This is to balance the torque load on the air bearing. Thanks
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@vpi ,
Interesting your moniker is VPI and your name is Harry??
Audiophiles continue, IMO, to be THE most resourceful creatures on this planet! The power of music has no bounds.
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Harry - Lead is banned north of the 49th parallel too, but two smaller weights still made it to my mailbox from Florida. 8^0
Both are smaller than the original grooved weight. The larger one brought things to the end of the plank for my MC Freedom Fighter cart. The smallest weight Bruce sent allowed for positioning a couple inches from the end with the 420 str. Still a ways to go. That tells you how light this Cracker Jack box cart really is. Will trim it down some, I mean the lead weight.....(using gloves).
Bruce told me the lead is cut on a band saw and then they are milled to the shape.
***********
Always fascinated by the amount of heft in the armtube/cart with the little weight removed off the I Beam. Add that tiny weight and it all balances out. The long beam eliminates the need for the multiple thin flat weights and the long bolt that they slid onto. I believe the one original grooved weight will balance the heavyweight XV1 .
The smallest detail (I Beam) that no pro reviewer ever understood enough to discuss, has the most dramatic effect on this tonearm.
As one ages, Physics becomes more and more a stark reality. I work on projects outside which involve moving weight. With my knees fragile from running, and no one around to help you. (I thought this was the reason to have kids - :^( .....)
We look for ways to manipulate the weight using Physics.
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PPS: Then, again maybe the government is correct. How else can we explain how obsessive compulsive we ET II audiophiles are.
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Hi Chris,
Regarding my mod to get weight to the end of the plank for lighter cartridges, see the last picture on my virtual system page. I'll try to describe here. Go to your local auto tire store and get some stick-on wheel weights used on magnesium or aluminum wheels. Take the base weight off of the ET weight clamp. A portion of the wheel weight can be fashioned to exactly fit in the groove in the ET weight clamp. Once this is done it is simply trial and error to trim the remaining portion of the wheel weight to the correct weight for your plank and cartridge.
The stick-on weights come in a single bar that is perforated so one, two or three can be broken off according to how much weight you need. I started with two and shaped one to fit the groove, then trimmed what remained to get the correct weight. Hope this is intelligible.
PS: Lead weights are easier to work with but harder to find here in the lower colonies since the government has decided that just touching lead will make us all brain damaged.
Cheers,
Harry |
Styrk
I reached out to Bruce about your setup yesterday.
Today he sent me the drawings/dimensions for your table.
Send me a pm with your email and I will send them to you
or
contact Bruce direct, remind him of our AudioGon discussion here and he can send the drawing to you direct.
His email
(brucet@eminent-tech.com)
Chris
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Thanks Chris
I did see that picture but misted out on the discussion
I have to read true that string.
Have a feeling that the RX1500 is going to be a good stable platform for my ET2.5 ;-)
5000/8000 even better but $$$$ so that have to wait for now Think hard to get to.
Styrk |
Styrk - came across this picture of a ET 2.0 on an RX 1500. It has an XV1 on it, and a custom armboard. RX-1500, ET 2.0, Dyna XV1 The discussion for the picture, including some armboard details can be found here. They discuss 2.5 but that is a 2.0 in the picture as can be seen by how the end cap overlaps the spindle. Hope this helps. Chris |
I know that the ET 2.5 is going to be the king. No problem admitting to that.
The thing is that I love to have a setup where have the option for some variation and to "Just play some something" when not really" listening" with out using hours on the High end pickup.
Cleaning house on high end time is vast of hours LOL
Second ET 2 sounds like a crazy good idea
Styrk
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The problem is not to "walk the line" the problem is walk the line without interfering with the other arm's Styrk - Sounds like you are setting up for a tonearm "party" :^0 You know - Years ago I tried different TT's with multiple tonearms on them. On three occasions. These were two full plinths and one setup using armpods. The party/experiments for me failed because I would only end up playing the ET2 after some comparisons. To those interested, I could only get the other tonearms to sound like the ET2 on two parts of the record; you know what I mean ..... when the presentation is really in focus, on those two points when a pivot arm alignment hits the sweet spot on a record. Hearing this phenomena using familiar LP's with these other tonearms, was interesting, in an audiophile way, but also the end of the road for them. Just saying. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ In my record collection I do have many mono records - have found over 100 so far and counting , so the plan would be to put my second ET2 on the La Platine in a custom install someday, to listen to these records with a mono cart. ************** For anyone reading here that doesn't understand what we mean when we say "Walking the line". See here. It's a straight, but lonely road. Walk the Line |
Well Chris with cant fine any armboard that is even close be able to get the distant right AX-3 is the closest but I think I either with touch the plate or get too great distant from the spindle. I know I can angle but then I lose option to mount all three arms.
The problem is not to "walk the line" the problem is walk the line without interfering with the other arm's
This mean that the onboard has long and curve around the plate. Then the mounting area has been big enough to support the base so all the spikes "hit something"
The second part of the manual on Bruce' websites will be a great help
I'd hoped that somebody had a design ready for this so I don't have to redesign the whole thing from scratch.
The problem with them RX1500 is that the mounting posts is so close to the plate
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In the end it's only a question of the correct mounting distance of the central mounting screw. Everything else can be adjusted by rotating the base around the central mounting screw, although it might look "non straight"... ;-)
Moderate arm length adjustments can still be made on the arm itself if necessary. Eg. to place the three base spikes more in the center of the arm board, not too close to the armboard edges.
The distance is 210.96mm if you have digital drill-fingers :-)
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Styrk
is there a reason that you are not using an existing post with armboard on the RX 1500?
The ET 2.5 mounting plate spikes form a triangle that is larger than the hole in the armboard. So the armboard can be used. All that is needed is a longer mounting bolt, thick Fender washer and locking nylon bolt. All Stainless Steel, from the bolts store.
I have only ever used the straight line jig anywhere on the platter, to mount the ET tonearm. Pivoting armboards make this very easy. For a full plinth TT put the assembled tonearm on the plinth without spikes. One person holds and adjusts the positioning of ET tonearm, while the other person positions the straight line jig which is hooked on the spindle. Once the cart lines up - use painters tape around the mounting plate - on three sides You’re done.
As long as your Cartridge "Walks the Line".
*****************
As far as dimensions for reference.
If you download the ET 2 Manual Pt. 2 from Bruce’ website - at the end are some mounting dimensions for Sota,Oracle and VPI.
Chris
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Once more am I in need of the knowledge of this community
I have decided to change turntable. My trusted TD125 is going into retirement and a Micro Seiki RX/RY/RS/RW 1500 is going to take over the job.
This is raising some issues. I'm now in need of some sort of drawing for a armboard to mounts the ET2.5 on.
I have access to knowledge and equipment to making the board board. (CDC -)) I even have it options to make it from whatever material that is optimal I guess titanium is a bit overkill. LOL
I've seen this done before on pictures I'm not sure which armboard that's been used. I have an option to use both one or two posts. I'm suspecting to post board will be the best
My plan is to mounts and acrylic shield on the backside.
I don't have access to special mounting tool (the Jigg)
So if anybody have control over the geometric positioning that will be of great help
Also Interesting in hearing what kind of mounting, what kind of material that will be the best.
I'm planning to put two more arms on so this is going to be a tree arm rigged Rx-1500 ;-)))))))))))))))))
Styrk
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Chris, thanks for that as I'll be using the same cartridge when I get my ET back in play.
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I discovered a limitation of the long I Beam with really light cartridges.
I’ve made an earnest attempt to get through some of my collection of unplayed records the last couple of weeks. Decided a couple of days ago to start using Room 2, to trial records and mark the ones for play in Room 1. I still have the Acutex 420 str mounted on an ET 2.0 HP with aluminum armtube in room 2 on an SP10 MKII.
With just the base ET2 weight on there that fits into the groove of the clamp, I can’t get past the midpoint on the new long I Beam. Physics.
The cartridge is just too light.
So I contacted Bruce and he told me this is something new, and the good thing is he is going to have a lighter version of the base weight made to accommodate the longer I Beam. For those of you running at say 3/4 on the I beam - this may get to the end of the plank. I think I recall Harry modding his base weight to get to the end of the I Beam - but not sure.
.
Good record playing weather.
Cheers
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The challenges for a designer/manufacturer are "the manifold". |
The challenges for an audiophile are manifold.
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I wanted that manifold, damn it! If one considers how a airplane takes off, goes up, and stays in the air, as a kind of magic.... then there is real magic happening inside this ET 2 manifold. Unlike "hybrid" air bearing tonearms, which use an air bearing in one plane, but need a mechanical (other) bearing in the other plane to work properly, this ET 2 is a full 360 air bearing. One of the Holy Craps in my previous post came from an Ontario Kuzma Airline owner, when he commented on the smoothness of the bearing. A Rockport tonearm owner on this forum, called the ET2 bearing "slippery" in comparison. Just saying. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ***************** $1805 US dollars = $2222 Canadian dollars :^( |
$1805!!! My bid wasn’t good enough. I wanted that manifold, damn it! 😥 |
A dozen bidders already. The 2.0 in good shape sell for $800 - $1000 without the pump system. This one is at $660 already. That is $814 in Cdn dollars. ********* Pegasus
This is the reflex thought that I heard often, When people come over if interested in the turntable. I let them feel the tonearm - without air. They see how much movement there is (nothing without force). I tell them wait a second and go turn on the air. Try it again. I say. They move the spindle in and out again with the air on. It actually "freaks" a few of them out. "Holy crap" "Holy shite" common language heard. |
Thanks for the clarification. I was wrong.
John |
John the ebay ad wording this is an upgraded** Eminent Technology ET2.5 Air Bearing Tonearm implies to me that it is an original ET 2.0, whose manifold and spindle were sent to Bruce. An ET 2.5 Manifold and Spindle returned to the previous owner. This can also explain why there are two aluminum arm wands. All other parts I Beam, Arm Plate Mount / VTA Block, Joint (Gooseneck) are shared between the two versions. It is rare to find a 2.5 manfiold/spindle for sale in auctions. If I were building from used purchases a 2.5, or for that matter even the 2.0; I would still be ordering from Bruce the upgraded aluminum gooseneck (joint), mounting plate ......and the long beam :^)
** the Ebay ad wording of "upgraded" is also misleading. If one plays MM cartridges the 2.0 is the better choice. All depends on which the listener prefers.
If I recall buried in this thread somewhere, there are close to 3000 ET tonearms out there. How many would there have been if the ET 2.0 tonearm was not introduced the same year as the perfect sound (cd). 8^0 |
Since this thread started I have been contacted by numerous people wanting to join this party, but they are too intimidated.
This is the reflex thought that I heard often, but IMO the ET arm is not only very transparent sonically but also in its technical design. It’s quite easy to adjust and very logical so. Regarding what I have seen in radial tonearm adjustments, I’d say there is *much* less probability that something is going really wrong. To do it really optimal it’s the usual old song... :-) And not different than any other analog setup. (Typing this while listening to my Raspi3 Hifiberry Digi+ streamer...) |
That ET2.5 on Ebay looks like an ET2.0 to me. Just look at the owner's manual. Current bid is $600.
Buyer beware.
-John |
It only took me 20 years to get it setup right. Better to be late for the party..... *^) than not to show up....... 8^( Since this thread started I have been contacted by numerous people wanting to join this party, but they are too intimidated. Now the funny thing (I find), is that I tell them the same thing I used to tell companies I used to consult for. To become and stay leading edge, you need to spend some time on the bleeding edge. And IMO, the very nature of public chat forum talk, is that there is mostly posts about bleeding; lets face it, these posts are more entertaining; and people asking for advice and sharing info to help and stop the bleeding. But it can be intimidating to those not familiar with what we are discussing. |
I'm glad that I'm happy enough with my ET2.0. It only took me 20 years to get it setup right. I'm not about to start all over again!
-John |
Auction for a rare 2.5.from the ebay ad. It features the large diameter spindle which is designed to operate at air pressures up to 19psi, The larger diameter spindle was designed for MC carts. Both the 2.0 and 2.5 can be set up by Bruce for 19 psi. Note: It only comes with the aluminum armtubes which work better with the 2.0, and MM carts; but you do get two, so one can be sent to Bruce to convert to carbon fiber for MC Carts. One way you can tell it is a 2.5; the end cap I Beam side is flush with the spindle and not overlapping it. Not associated with the auction - good luck to those watching.
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