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Electrical Recommendation

I just upgraded my Panamax 5510 to the BPT-3.5 Balanced Power Signature Plus AC Conditioner and need some recommendations on the following:

1. Should I have my electrician hook a direct line to my system location?

2. What size fuse (AMP) should the direct line run from to avoid shut-offs. 20AMP?

3. Should I plug the BPT-3.5 Signature Plus directly into the wall and then all other components directly into the BPT-3.5 Signature Plus?

Some info:

Both systems are located on the same rack system. The chances of running both systems below at the same time are extremely rare since it's an open loft configuration in my home with different sitting mezzanines. AC upgrade in my loft building is not possible.

System A:
2-McCormack DNA 225 (225 Watts x 2 for both units at full power)
1-Sonance Cinema Sub Amp (625VA & 100W x 2 at full output)
1-McCormack RLD-1

System B:
1-McCormack DNA-HT5 (100W x 5 at full power)
1-ELAC powered subwoofer (180W x 1 at full power)
1-McCormack MAP-1

System A & B:
1-BPT-3.5 Signature Plus (recently purchased)
1-McCormack UPD 1 Universal CD/DVD

Please keep in mind, I never use my system at FULL POWER, most likely 50% power and then my neighbors start knocking.

Thanks for any advice you can offer. Electrician will be here next week so please answer soon!

Thanks!!!!

David

128x128dpsny1
6 responses Add your response
dpsny1's avatar
dpsny1 OP
3 posts
 
Great recommendations! Thanks. I am just not sure how much power I have in my home to make this happen, but, will discuss with my electrician. The fuse box is only about 10' from the location of the equipment, so, the runs won't be very long.

Why the 20A compared to the 15A in some of your messages? Very confusing to me.

What are your thoughts on the following:

1. Running a 20A to the equipment and plugging in the BP-3.5 and then plugging the amps and subwoofer directly into the BP-3.5.

AND...

2. Also running a 15A to the equipment and plugging in my Panamax 5510 conditioner and hooking up all of the source equipment.

I'm really limited with AC in my building, so, let me know if this would be an upgrade from plugging in the BP-3.5 and then hooking everything up to it.

Again, I cannot max my system since my neighbors would be forced out of the building. Let me know. If a terrible idea I'll explore more options with my electrician.
lak's avatar
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lak
4,626 posts
 
Digsmithd,
If I understand your question correctly, the Porter port only comes un-plated. On the other hand I have owned (and still do) many other high-end cryo’d outlets, most of which were plated. They were however not cryo’d treated by NASA, but rather by other cryogenic labs.
Read: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?raccs&1065488253&openfrom&1&4#1

digsmithd
913 posts
 
hey lak have you tied both plated porters and un plated,just curious?
lak's avatar
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lak
4,626 posts
 
I suggest using 10/2 wire for all. Could be over kill however will not hurt anything and possibly only help.
There could be some benefits from running your electrical wiring in the following fashion:
10 gage solid THHN (white/black/green) manually (electric drill) spiral twist and snake through conduit.
I personally like to use the Porterhouse cryo'd AC outlets, which are Hubbell outlets rated for 15 or 20 amp. They are Hospital grade and deep immersion cryo treated. They are a special order un-plated version. Other outlets that have plated connectors (Nickel, Silver or Tin) that are designed to hold up in harsh chemical and / or oxygen rich environments. This is not only unnecessary for audio systems but many believe it harms the quality of sound.
nsgarch's avatar
nsgarch
2,524 posts
 
I think George's recommendations are good, except if your equipment is 20 feet or more from your panel, then I'd increase the wire size. 10/2 for the 20A and 12/2 for the 15 A.

I'd recommend using the BPT just for source equipment, on a 15A circuit, and plugging the amps directly into ea. 20A circuit as George said. I'm not sure, but I think the BPT has a couple of outlets filtered for digital equipment? If you run out of oulets on the BPT, you can buy multi-outlet units from many of the power cord manufacturers. Just make sure they do not have filters, or circuit breakers in them. Just plain direct wired.
yioryos's avatar
yioryos
723 posts
 
Hi
Some people reccommend to separate the digital from the analog components at the source.Also to plug your amps straight to the wall.Here is what I would do if I had your system.I would run two 20A lines(12/2 gauge Romex wire),and one 15A(14/2 gauge Romex wire).Now 12/2 or 14/2 means a wire that has three conductors,a hot(black)a neutral(white)and the ground (bare copper).Each line would be dedicated,isolated.That means each line runs straight from the main panel to the desired location and with one duplex receptacle at the end of the run.Then you would end up with two 20A and one 15A isolated lines.Plug your BPT on the 15A and all source components on it.Keep your amps on the two 20A lines and let them breath.
Maybe other more experienced users can chime in with better ideas.I am learning too.I use four Tice powerblock/titans sets for my system.I got however (6) 20A isolated/dedicated lines and (2) 15A plus another (2) 20A shared lines.
Best of luck
George
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