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Duelund conversion to DIY Helix Geometry Cabling

I have been an avid user of the Duelund cabling for over two years now and have used them exclusively in my system with great results. I have built many for friends and have used a full loom of interconnects, speaker cables, power cords and an extensive wiring modification for a previously owned balanced power conditioner utilizing Duelund 600V PolyCast wiring which was transformative. My cabling desires can be a little addictive as I have owned and evaluated 40+ brands of cabling costing more than an entire stereo system!

Over the past six months I stumbled upon a thread here on Audiogon in regards to a Helix designed cabling and as you probably already know, I just had to look a little deeper into this cable design…After a month of studying and sourcing parts, I decided to reach out to the designer/architect, Williewonka who gave more insights and philosophy on how the cable came into existence.

That conversation got the ball rolling in converting one of my KLE Duelund interconnects to Steve’s Helix designed which only entailed replacing the neutral with a Mil-Spec 16 AWG silver-plated copper wire with the neural wire being 3 times longer than the signal wire and of course the “Coiling” of the neutral wire : )

After the modification was complete, I was not sure what to expect from the Helix cabling but I was quite shocked with the results with “ZERO” burn-in time…The sound stage became much wider/deeper with a much tighter/focused image and clarity/transparency is like nothing I have ever heard in any cabling regardless of cost. In fact, I just sold a full loom of a commercially designed Helix Cable that’s renowned around the world and has more direct sale than any cable manufacturer; these $200 DIY Helix Cables walked all over them…

I believe you will hear the same results as I have and have heard back from friends who have already modified their Duelunds with the same results; WOW! Remember the cables will need 200+ hours to burn-in and settle into your system. My system is now 90% DIY Helix to include IC, SC, PC and Coax with each cabling adding its beauty of an organic and natural presentation that draws you into the fabric of the music.

You can tailor the sound of your cables using Duelund, Mundorf silver/1% gold, the outstanding Vh Audio OCC Solid Copper or Silver with Airlok Insulation or your favorite wiring and you can change it at any time…

 

http://www.image99.net/blog/files/category-diy-cables.html

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/difference-in-sound-between-copper-and-silver-digital-cables

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/adding-shielding-to-existing-cables

 

Enjoy,

Wig


128x128wig

Showing 10 responses by grannyring

grannyring's avatar
grannyring
6,436 posts
 
Steve I think you should consider this for ICs or whatever cable has two conductors on the positive. Don’t twist two bare conductors together and put in one Teflon tube. Put each bare conductor in a smaller Teflon tube and twist the pair. This is a true double IC and not more like a stranded or heavier gauge conductor. Food for thought. This must be done on the USB data conductors of coarse.

i have done this with silk rather than Teflon with outstanding results. 
grannyring's avatar
grannyring
6,436 posts
 
Multiple 18 gauge simply does not sound as good in power cords as we have been there and done that. Not in the Helix design. Not even close in our listening tests. Same is true with ICs and speaker cables using the Helix design. Multiple 22 gauge does not sound as good as two 18 gauge. Been there, done that with my own line of cables and now the Helix. In my own Duelund line 16 gauge sounded better than 20 gauge for ICs. 12 gauge sounded better than 16 gauge for speaker cables.

With the Helix design the same holds true. Just because others do something different does not make it right or sound better in this design. The proof is not just found in white papers or books, but also through the time consuming and laborious process of building and carefully listening over time. We have done that and put the hours of hard work into this process.

No shortcuts here, just real man hours, hard work, careful listening over break in time, money and a big dose intentional curiosity.
grannyring's avatar
grannyring
6,436 posts
 
How did you “order” them if I may ask? I assume you mean you are going to build them? 
grannyring's avatar
grannyring
6,436 posts
 
Here Are my impressions after working with both the Neotech wire and the VH audio wire with the Teflon insulation in tact. I find the Neotech wire to be warmer, bigger soundstage, and slightly better dynamics. I am a sucker for a big stage and warmth so therefore prefer the Neotech.

The VH Audio has more air and sparkle and also reveals inner details slightly better.

In terms of stripping off the Teflon and the sonic differences between that and leaving the Teflon on the Neotech wire, here is what I found in my system based on my preferences. Removing the Teflon opened up the sound a tad and improved details and resolution. However, I found this could be too much of a good thing in my system. I lost a little of the darkness and warmth that I do like with the Teflon in place. In the end I preferred a stripped Air USB combined with the Teflon left in place on my ICs. . I found that balance to be perfect for me and my particular taste.

My system is very resolving and easily reflects any small change I make. I am certainly biased towards the warm, rich and full bodied end of the sound spectrum. I even like a little bit of darkness with the stage set back. I will easily sacrifice detail for warmth and a midrange centric sort of sound. My ears are VERY sensitive to upper mids and are easily upset if there is the slightest bit of extra energy there. 
grannyring's avatar
grannyring
6,436 posts
 
To make things more confusing several of us use 2 - 12 gauge Neotech on the live of our power cords. I use this for amps, preamps, and conditioners. I use 2-14 gauge Neotech live conductors on all else. None of it stripped for the power cords.That is the recipe I like the sonically and safety wise.

What is good and fun about this is that the general design just works and you can decide what you want to do with the reported variations. They all sound fantastic and no one choice can ever be best in all systems and for all preferences. 
grannyring's avatar
grannyring
6,436 posts
 
Yes I use a 4-1 ratio on all my IC builds. Just my preference. For a one meter length I use 2-13 foot runs for the Helix in my ICs.

grannyring's avatar
grannyring
6,436 posts
 
Thanks and agree! 
grannyring's avatar
grannyring
6,436 posts
 
Yes ignore yesiamjohn’s comment as he has not built one of these or listened to one.  He likes to provoke.  These double helix designs make some of the best sounding ICs, digital cables and USB cables I have heard.  No doubt about it. 
grannyring's avatar
grannyring
6,436 posts
 
I just want to give my personal experience and opinion here. I have tried using the nude wire approach in Teflon tube on the positive conductors in my double helix builds. I have found I prefer keeping the original red Teflon in place on the Neotech or VH Audio wire. (IC builds)
For me the nude wire approaching with Teflon tube was simply too direct and too forced sounding. For me it was just too much of a good thing. Almost like too much resolution when combined with the perceived slight loss of warmth and natural tone. I prefer the slightly warmer and laid-back sound with the Teflon in place. This is a very subjective thing,  but something I have found to be true for me. I suspect this would be true for other listeners also. I also find that by placing a single or a double layer of cotton tubing over the twisted pair of positive wires really does help to tame vibrations and increase musicality.  
grannyring's avatar
grannyring
6,436 posts
 
DH Labs and Vampire XLRs look absolutely identical as I have used both. Sure one makes for the other.  Yes, pure copper. Used both and very, very good. 
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