Does it make sense to "ignore low ball offers"?


Assuming the person wants to sell the item and is accepting offers (since he didn’t say the "price is firm") then why say "I will gladly ignore low ball offers" ?

Why not make a counteroffer to the low ball offer? Thats how cars, houses and most anything that doesn’t have a "firm" price is purchased.

If its because the seller doesn’t want to waste their time negotiating they should say so or simply grow-up a little bit and not get so easily offended by a low offer. Besides, a buyer has no idea what the seller is willing to accept unless you negotiate it.

I’ve sold and purchased a number items after negotiating from a low first offer.

128x128sbayne

If the offer is not totally low-balled I will usually try to negotiate.  But, I always respond just to be polite.  Are low-ballers a PITA?  Sure, but being polite is pretty easy.  I always try to remember and take the high road so to speak.  

Case in point, just had an offer on a preamp I am selling.  The buyer offered a trade for an older pair of Thiel speakers.  Interesting idea, but the speakers are worth less than half of what I'm asking for the preamp.  I would consider that pretty low-ball!  I politely replied that it was an interesting idea but I couldn't do that deal.  No sweat on my part.  Was the buyer being an a-hole with the offer?  Maybe, maybe not.  Maybe just looking for a sweet deal.   

Let's be nice, people.

@sbayne what I like to do if the offer is insultingly low is retort with over the asking price as much as they went below it.  i.e. I’m asking $2000 for some thing and I get a lowball offer of $600, I’ll reply with $3400.  Usually I get no reply (perfect) or a reply of “that’s more than what you were originally asking” or “thats ridiculous, you’re insane” to which I reply “now you know how I feel.”  

50% of new if outside warranty always seemed to me to be a reasonable asking point when I’m selling and that’s how I bid when buying.

How did I come up with that number?

I bought a HK USP40 pistol about 25 years ago. Hated it. Ergonomics, size, fit, .40 cal impulse/noise etc. (my usual carry gun is a SIG P229 in 357 SIG, FWIW). 

As the saying goes, it seemed like a good idea at the time.

Pistol sat in the safe for a few months, I took it to the LGS (Local Gun Store) where I was offered 50% of new price. Oh. I then sold it through Gunbroker to a guy about  20 miles away for 70% of the new price and he thought he was getting a great deal.

I consider what I “lose” in a sale to be “rent.”

So I bought the gun, ran a couple hundred rounds through it, took it to the range a couple times - what I “lost” might be close to what it would’ve cost to rent the gun, the lane, and the ammo from the local indoor range over that time so it’s kind of a breakeven point and a “stupid tax.”

Stereo gear? I see guys selling cartridges that were $6,000 new with - allegedly - very low hours for about half that but, there are many items on, say, USAudiomart that have been there for a year or more and the asking price is so close to new, forget about it. They’ll box the things up, stick ‘em in their attic and sell in ten years for more as “vintage.” Maybe.

This is called “Laissez-faire economics.” A thing is worth what someone is willing to pay for it, no more, no less.

It’s why I can’t watch another episode of - even a commercial for - “American Pickers” where you see some guy who’s a couple heartbeats short of a pine box and a wake telling the boys “I know what I got and it’s worth a lot more than that” but who’s buying? Iffen it don’t sell, it’s worth nothing, and it’s going to continue to sit in your garage collecting dust, rust and rats’ nests and excrement. That’s how I once bought a 1937 Harley Davidson knucklehead (EL?) for $200 back in 1974.

JMHO FWIW YMMV

Like the previous respondent, my standard reply to a “low ball” offer is to send a counteroffer at a price that is *higher* than my original listing price.