Do I esentially have a class A amp?


I have a Krell KST 100 which has class A/B topology but it runs in class A up to 50 watts or half power before sliding over to class B. At most I may use 10 watts and at that very rarely when I drive my Vandersteens. So my question is do I essentially have a class A amp?
digepix

Showing 3 responses by czarivey

Perhaps you're wrong. For full range sound you need more power. It's only OK for 1kHz, but for the rest of frequencies especially in the crossover region, chances you're not in class A are high even at 85dB.
Used to have Quicksilver M60 to drive my Aerial 10t. Sounded great. Quickies were driving once owned Vandy 2ce. Still love these and regret selling.
Switched to Krell KAV300i sounded better.
Than switched to Sunfire 300 sounded even more better.
If I get Sunfire 600(devoted to them since), they will sound even more better.
Better bass, better imaging and presentation.
Bigger power brings bigger sound. Loudness is measured at 1khz, don't forget. Other frequencies will act different. My speakers can be brought to 25Hz FLAT with powerful amp.
My amp Sunfire 300 clearly demonstrates sound qualities per specified. It does use deep 22db NFB as most digital amps do. I can't tell exactly how many AB comparisons had been done so far swapping one amp vs. mine to just simply tell you that my amp was acquired according to specks that matched my other components and speakers and no other amp so far was able to proof its worthiness for the value. For JC sake how in the world can you beat $<1000 used 300wpc/8Ohm of continuous power stable to .5Ohm???.

Read more about audiophoolishness over the internet and do not buy neither digital amps or any other amps with NFB so they can be sold cheaper.