Determining current flow to install "audiophile" fuses.


There are 4 fuses in my Odyssey Stratos amp. I recently returned some AMR fuses because they rolled off the highs and lows a little too much for me. Mids were excellent though. Anyway, I'm getting ready to try the Hi-Fi Tuning Classic Gold fuses, as they are on clearance now for $10/ea. Are they any good? However, I have read that they are a directional fuse? Can anyone confirm this? If that is the case, does anyone know the current flow for the Odyssey Stratos? Or, does anyone know how figure out current flow by opening up the top and looking at the circuitry? 


jsbach1685
Would you guys stop hallucinating that your fuses make a difference. If you are worried about it, use a slow blow. Otherwise, temporarily use a larger use. It would conduct more current than either direction as the standard fuse.
If you hear a difference with the larger fuse, simply get in touch with me and I will sell you the best, green magic markered fuses ever made, complete with a balsa inserter/puller that will not warp the filament by grabbing teh glass part too hard. .

V    
"Fuse directionality is not something exclusive to only high-end fuses. I found that even cheaper fuses have a preferred direction. One way to find out is to look at the cap ends with a magnifying glass. I found that the majority will have the power rating stamped on one end, and the other will usually have an assortment of symbols. Yes, I found the OEM fuses even sound better in one direction, but not the same as the high-end ones. I have the Hi-Fi Supreme fuses. Before plunging, I tried ceramic fuses of the same rating as the OEM. They sounded a bit smoother than the OEM. I simply diagrammed on a paper the direction using the cap's indicators. So far, its been consistent for each fuse. They key is, one direction will sound smoother in comparison."

excellent, excellent...

Changing the fuse direction does changes the sound , be it the air, or tightness of the bass . It may be tinny in one direction , full in the other . Try both ways ….you’ll know which is correct . I use Padis ( Furutech) in my Wyred Dac 2, which Wyred uses in their upgrades, and AMR in my Dynaudio MC15s . I have tried the Padis in my Dyna’s , but they were too cold and revealing. The AMR had a fullness the Padis couldn’t give me . For me , it's the right mix of detail and warmth. Regardless of the non-believers, they do make a difference . Just trust your ears
Aolmrd1241 4-7-2016 9:46am EDT
I read somewhere that only the direction of the ac [in a fuse...or power cord for that matter] towards the business end of the component[what is heard] is of any value in directional break-in ,hence, the reason there is directionality in a fuse used in an ac circuit is because of the cycle going to... and not fro. For what its worth,it sounds plausible.
While it is true that in the case of an AC mains connection energy is being transferred essentially in just one direction, from the outlet to the component, a fuse in that path has no way of being aware of that direction. All it has knowledge of is the current flowing through it. It is not even aware of the voltage of the AC, unless it is blown or in the process of blowing. And that current flows to and fro, as you put it, alternating its direction every 8.33 milliseconds in the USA and other countries having 60 Hz AC, and every 10 ms in countries having 50 Hz AC.

Also, upon careful reading it appears to me that the statement you referred to is an example of what is known as circular reasoning.

Regards,
-- Al

You really can't pose any argument or meaningful discussion with subjective opinion regarding magic fuses or any other technically questionable tweak…if somebody "feels" their hifi has an improved soundstage, instrument tonal quality, or any other improvement from a premium FUSE (!), it has to stand…among those who have had a suspicious relationship with SR fuses (seriously overblown prattle that should raise eyebrows implying a commercial connection with the manufacturer) the arguments regarding the cheapness of the product relative to other tweaks ("the BMW cost you 50 grand, why not spend $300 on valve stem caps?") is lame on it's surface. By asking potential buyers to spend hundreds or many hundreds of dollars on something costing 20 times what it should (relative to other, non precious fuses) since "you can return the item before 30 days," plays to the fact that most simply won't bother to return these things or will keep turning them around to test directionality or adding more break-in time because they really really want them to work. This desire to hear things that might not exist because you paid dearly for it, and ego driven desire to not be left out of some "extra sensitive hearing" club drive most audio silliness and distract from actually valid or perhaps useful information that keeps the hobby rolling along.