Dedicated power


I'm looking to run a dedicated 30a and dedicated 20a line to my system directly from the fuse box. 
I currently have some florescent lights and some other junk on the line so I'm hoping it will be an improvement. Things sounds like they are straining somewhat when you crank things up. The amp will go on the 30a line and the digital stuff on the 20a. 
Anyone done this and saw improvements? 
mofojo

Showing 18 responses by invalid

residential electric service is 240VAC, which is achieved using two 120VAC lines that are 180 degrees out of phase with each other.

They are 180 degrees difference when measured to neutral not each other.
The lights are wired on a separate circuit, it was a 2800 watt sunfire subwoofer, playing telarc time warp. I've seen lights blink in too many different systems to believe it could just be dirty connections. It has to be voltage drop on the line.
All copper#2 wire. Thanks for the links jea48, the voltage drop could have been from the captive power cord. 
I don't believe too many manufacturers make a 240 volt sub or amplifier in the us. 
Bob carver designed power supplies can be a bit different than most other stuff on the market, so Jea48 you might be onto something with that theory.
It would seem like the transformers used would have to be somewhat sealed being that they are filled with oil.
I'm sure they make transformers that can withstand flooding, but will the power companies cough up the money for them?
I was talking to some linemen, when a transformer blew on my street, they said it isn't uncommon for the transformers to be run at 200% capacity.
for the Parasound hca 3500 I wouldn’t be surprised if dealers aren’t telling customers the unit should be fed from a 120V 30 amp circuit. Over the phone Parasound Tech support maybe saying the unit needs to be fed from a 120V 30 amp circuit. I doubt they would put it in writing. If they did they should specify the receptacle outlet would need to be rated at 30 amps.




Doesn't the parasound hca3500 have dual plugs one for each channel?
What's with this on the same phase advice, residential electric service only has one phase it's a split single phase.
My question was about a sub panel on an outbuilding, a grounding rod has to be used here by code as well as the 2 by the service entrance. I know you have to bond the two at the main service, but do you have to bond the one at the sub panel to the 2 at the service entrance?
The one answer I can't seem to find anywhere is on a sub panel in an out building that the neutral is isolated from the equipment ground with a grounding rod, are you supposed to bond that ground rod to the service entrance ground rod.
Thanks for the info, it wasn't answerd last time, at least not about bonding the sub panel ground rod or not to the main panel grounding rods.
It's not just clean connections, I've had lights blink on a 15 amp circuit with powerful bass, but when I plug an electric heater into that same circuit the lights are fine no change. 
The feeder line from the main service panel to the sub panel is 65' and it's 2awg. That same sunfire sub did the same thing in my friends system and the circuit was only 20' from the main panel.   2800 watts is quite a bit of power.
I haven't checked street input connections, I had to install a new service about 28 years ago, because the ice on the roof took the mast down. I don't seem to have any problem with my hot tub or air conditioner. The breaker is only 2 years old.
The us has the most extreme weather, from tornadoes to blizzards to hurricanes. But I will agree our infastructure is falling apart, while we keep giving billions to other countries.