Dedicated Line(s), One Line or Two?


We are renovating our NYC condo (in a 1960, 175 apartment building) and using it as an opportunity to run a dedicated line direct from the breaker box to the two-channel system (20 amp, 12 gauge wire).  The contractor ran the line (singular) as requested.  But now I'm reading that ideally we should have two dedicated lines, one for the digital source (CDP) and one for the analog components.  The problem is that running the one line took a lot of work, chopping wall channels, removing molding, etc., and the new line has already been closed in.  I could have it redone to add a second line, but it won't be easy or cheap.  (Obviously I should have done more homework sooner.)   Questions: How much "dedicated line" benefit am I giving up if I just stick with one line, and have two duplex outlets on that one line?   Put differently, having gone to the trouble to add one dedicated line, will I still get enough improvement, so as not to feel like a complete fool for not adding a second line?   Is there a material downside to having digital and analog both drawing power from the same line?  Any input appreciated.  
whitecap

Showing 5 responses by terry9

I take it you are still renovating. Is the breaker box in a utility room rather than in a living area? Because if it's in a utility room, you can use an isolation transformer between the box and your dedicated line, and use another circuit for the CDP if it's a problem.

Since isolation transformers can growl when they are doing their job, they really should not be in a living area.

I use three isolation transformers to keep noise to a minimum. It made high priced power cords obsolete - direct test in my system. Thus you kill two birds with one transformer - isolate your analogue system from the CDP, and also from the elevator and God knows what else. Not to mention, making high priced AC power cords obsolete.

Plitron makes very fine isolation transformers, suitable for medical equipment, and they sell directly to the public. Highly recommended.
Thank you, Whart.

I use naked transformers in an garden variety electric utility box. But it really depends on the local electric code, and the expertise of the inspectors, because some inspectors get bent out of shape unless its a finished, boxed unit. Plitron sells both kinds, certified UL etc.

If I were doing it again, I'd talk to the electrical inspector before doing anything. And I'd try to make him work for me, not against me. Experience teaches.

Should add, that for a motor controller (as in a turntable), it is a good idea to synthesize the waveform with a special circuit. But that is a very special application, and low power, and relatively low cost.

My opinions again.

When selecting a device to filter your power, make sure that the output is better than the input from the wall. Not all consumer grade devices do that - or so I am told. Thing is, do they fix the problem you have? A computer uninterruptible power supply is great if you don't care about the wave form, but just need juice to keep a critical computer system up and running. Audio needs clean waveforms, and no DC. IMO. That's an isolation transformer.

Just put a 'scope on a voltage divider across the output. Get your retailer to arrange that. Any tech in the country can do it. The picture on the scope should look like the sine wave from a calculus text. Compare the picture from the device under test to the raw output from the wall. If the device isn't better, if it has jagged steps or other grunge, don't touch it, even if its free, unless your wall power is truly ugly.

If you can't test directly, a good rule of thumb is to use industrial grade equipment, or better. That stuff has to work - their customers are sophisticated enough to test it and demand it. I hear the difference, so I use it.

Just my opinion. YMMV