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Dedicated Circuits - Subpanel importance?

My system is no more. Sold everything. Starting from scratch. Thanks to you and seven months of experience I am doing the following, which is taking care of the number one component, the room:

  1. Treating. The full GIK order in October is starting to arrive.
  2. Running one or more dedicated circuits.

I am addressing #2 in this post. There are extensive discussions here and one can spend hours if not days trying to wring-out the critical details needed for a DIY solution. I have spent hours and there a few things I need to confirm before I proceed because I was unable to find definitive answers.

I am doing this myself. I do not want or need lectures on only having a licensed electrician do this work. I have been doing my own electrical work for many years and am very comfortable doing so.

  1. Does a subpanel help? Is it required? Subpanels are typically supplied from a breaker off of the main panel's bus, so I'm guessing there is no advantage in terms of SQ? Perhaps if I can independently ground the subpanel it might make a difference?
  2. Opening up my walls is not an option, so I need to use conduit. This may restrict the number of lines if the wire should not share the same conduit? If I am restricted to Romex 8 or 10,2 versus metal-clad, is it okay for two runs to occupy the same conduit?
  3. How much better is metal-clad? Is it required vs Romex? Will metal conduit accomplish the same result with Romex?

Answers to these questions will complete my plans and I will go forward at speed. Hopefully this discussion helps others as well even if it's to know what to have their electrician setup for them.

Thank you!

 

 

 

 

128x128izjjzi

Showing 2 responses by cleeds

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cleeds
5,690 posts
 

izjjzi

Does a subpanel help? Is it required? ... Perhaps if I can independently ground the subpanel it might make a difference?

There's no advantage to a subpanel, imo, unless perhaps it can be located close to your system and simplify the rest of the install. As for grounding, all grounds must be bonded together at the main panel and only at the main panel to ensure a fault to ground will trip the breaker.

I have also done my own electrical work with good result. I do recommend getting a permit if required (it was in my case) and then having your work inspected. It's cheap insurance.

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cleeds
5,690 posts
 
ldandslow

... provider voltage drop +/- up to 10% is allowed and set by your utility provider, not the national electrical code.

Where I live and in most US states electric utilities are regulated by a Board of Public Utilities or similar entity. The board sets standards, not the utility; the NEC has nothing to do with it. Household voltage in the US is typically spec'd at 120VAC ±5 percent, and a utility must conform to the standard. To be clear, it may not be an easy matter to get a utility to provide the service as required, but it can be done.

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