DAC DIRECT IN TO AMPLIFIER OR TO PREAMPLIFIER


For the longest time, I believed that the best preamplifier is no preamplifier.  Eliminating a component from the audio chain would yield less distortion & greater purity.

Recently, I have had reason to re-think my logic on the matter - and I am (I think) changing my mind.  Better said, assuming that the preamplifier in the component you are using (in my case, a DAC) can produce 95% or greater quality sound compared to the preamplifier component, then no preamplifier is the best option.  The 5% represents the (estimated) loss of fidelity in adding another set of interconnects.

That said, most DACs do not have an outstanding preamplifier built in.  I think most have average passive attenuators, and the better DACs have active preamplifiers that are very good - but not as good as a quality preamplifier.

What are your thoughts?

 

 

paul_lindemann

Showing 3 responses by lanx0003

++1 @markalarsen @ghdprentice I had a similar experience recently, and it completely converted me from the ’no preamp is the best preamp’ camp to being a preamp believer. People often attribute it to synergy, but I really wish someone could explain exactly which elements, components or interactions in the gears contribute to better synergy.  Impedance matching is just a necessary condition but not a sufficient condition.

After acquiring a preamp primarily for analog attenuation, I've become convinced that a separate high-quality active preamp can significantly enhance sound reproduction and elevate the overall listening experience in almost every aspect. The key lies in the preamp's ability to establish good 'synergy,' including impedance matching, not only with the DAC but also with the amplifier. The specific elements contributing to this 'synergy' might be challenging to define, but you'll know when you find the right one.

The Aesthetix Calypso receives rave reviews as a remarkable piece of equipment. However, it appears that no one has mentioned a potential issue related to its impedance matching with your amplifier. Although the average output impedance (OI) is rated at 300 and 600 ohms for SE and XLR line outputs, JA (Sterophile) pointed out that both SE and XLR OI can rise to 3150 and 3900 ohms at 20Hz. This necessitates an amplifier with at least a 40k input impedance to avoid bass sounding lean.

@mitch2 I believe it was related to the size of the coupling caps used.

I concur. After conducting some research, we could apply the general guideline of a 3dB cut-off frequency at 2Hz to calculate the desired load input impedance (RL) in ohms using the formula RL = 0.5 / (π * f * C), where f is the cut-off frequency (2Hz in this case) and C is the capacitance in Farads.  For a better understanding of why 2Hz is suggested, you can refer to [https://www.v-cap.com/coupling-capacitor-calculator.php].

The Aesthetix Calypso Standard (Saturn) series employs 2uF output coupling capacitors. Therefore, the desired RL is calculated as RL = 0.5 / (3.1416 * 2 * (2x10^-6)) = 40k ohms. This calculation aligns with JA’s measurements in the lab.

Now, if the load input impedance at the amplifier doesn’t match the desired 40k ohms, one possible solution is to replace or upgrade the 2uF caps with the 4uF Dynamicaps used in the Signature series. This would reduce the desired RL to 20k ohms, resulting in benefits such as improved bass extension, resolution, dynamics, and reduced grain. According to the manufacturer’s website, the existing Saturn units can be factory upgraded to Signature specification. Alternatively, you could consider purchasing the Signature edition. In the used market, the Signature edition typically costs around $3,800, compared to the sub $2,500 price tag for the standard version.