Can you still read the values printed on the crossover parts? Unless you can find a schematic, that's likely your best option. If they're not legible, my educated "guess" is that the measurable crossover values should still be pretty close to original since they're in a passive circuit. If you measure the parts from both speakers you'll double your sampling number....if the parts are very close to each other, I'd think that'd be a pretty good starting point.
I'd opt for non-inductive wire wound resistors vs typical sand cast. Air core inductors are preferable to iron core IMO. Try to get the DC resistance of the inductors as close as possible to the originals....a few tenths of an ohm change shouldn't make much difference, but close is good....obviously you want the inductive value to be as close as possible. Good quality caps should help too. Sonicap, Clarity Cap, Mundorf, Solen...there are dozens to choose from, and all have their fans. Caps in particular can take a while to burn in, so be patient.
It'd be a good time to replace any ferro fluid if the Vifa tweeters originally had it.
Might as well upgrade the connectors to pure copper, and the wire if there's not something good in there already.
Dunno if this will help, but I found a discussion of the Amrita Audio speakers at DIYAudio.com https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/crossovers-for-amrita-towers.291004/