Are you sure the tweeter is functional, did you disconnect all drivers prior to soldering. If you're getting continuity from binding post to speaker terminal has to be tweeter. if you applied too much heat for too long you may have fried something. Should always use heat sink, anti heat paste around fine gauge wiring.
Crossover help?
Hi to all I'm hoping someone might be able to help.
I've tried to upgrade components within my crossover and now have no HF signal.
The tweeter checks out.
I've searched for bad joints , shorts etc but can find nothing obvious.
Today I've pulled the upgraded components from the Hf circuit but still have nothing.
Using a continuity test its all good up to the main cap and after back to the terminal.
I do get a bleep from both terminals so assume thats the parallel resistor.
I'm at a loss as to why its gone completely dead.
Anyone got ideas how to check the network front to back with only a basic multimeter?
Thanks in advance if someone has some ideas
Regards Ian
Showing 5 responses by sns
This is example of why one should take photos, more photos and more photos of any equipment one working on. You cannot have too many pictures. If OP took photos prior and wired up exactly the same, only fried components could account for failure. Hand drawn schematic good back up. Also, get value of components in photos if possible.
When I did my last crossover mods, I took tons of photos, got stuck in middle of mods, luckily found the single photo that was at proper angle to see hidden wire. |
I searched and saw picture of upgrade, you have circuit board, per grannyring likely damaged pad or trace. Solder pads easily damaged in removal of original components, need proper desoldering equipment, don't force anything. Believe me I know from experience.
Above if you're 100% sure drivers working. |
I don't see your system. Look at this thread,https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/tweeter-blown-or-crossover-how-to-check |
Did you read that thread I mentioned, I find it hard to believe your tweeter not fried or board damaged. You have to make sure you haven't damaged voice coils, pretty fragile. Multimeter readings often of no use when everything in circuit. You have to put battery across speaker terminals, or send signal directly to tweeter bypass entire crossover, remove all crossover wires from tweeter terminals and test. If tweeter working, circuit board bad. Unless fried inductor.
You may have to find local tech or send board back to PMC. Too difficult to troubleshoot by forum. I just have to believe you've fried something. |