Critical subwoofer tip


I assume that everyone already knows the importance of phase matching a sub to the main speakers but it’s a little more complicated than simple 90 degrees or 180. The B&W sub that I have has four choices. In every case there has been a definite correct position that can be non standard. My current setup shined at 270 degrees vs the std positions. It’s completely obvious and the other choices would not have been satisfying. 
From my lengthy experience I would want a subwoofer with several phase choices. I personally don’t see how one could seamlessly integrate the mains and the sub without this flexibility. No one asked but i thought this info might be useful to anyone purchasing a subwoofer. YMMV
4425

Showing 1 response by daledeee1

I've got 2 DIY 10" subs.  They are made out of nice birch plywood.  The cabinets do not vibrate. They are ported.  They are, heaven forbid, wired in stereo.  They are crossed over at 100Hz currently.  They will play 105dB @ 30Hz. All my crossover has is level for highs and lows to compensate for gain from the amps.  They have sat in the same place for 20 years.  I always thought I had good bass.  Then, when I retired I started taking this seriously and put bass traps and other sound treatments in my room.   Now my bass is really nice.  It was actually boomy before when I thought that is what it should sound like.  I can walk around the room and the sound is the same.  I think room treatment is much more important than these expensive subs with all these controls.  The only reason a sub should cost more is better cabinet construction and nice drivers.  All this other stuff leads to chasing your tail.  What is much more frustrating to me is how recordings are made and bass levels vary.  My true test is to find a recording where they hit a timpani as hard as they can and it still sounds right.  I've got that.