Unfortunately, I do not. That is a very good question. It is likely that I will have to trust the design of the crossover that I choose, not to mention the tweeter. Looks like this may be over my head. I am a builder of speaker cabinets and 'proven' electronic kits. In the past, I have been fooled more than once.
Choosing new drivers/crossover in a speaker build
This may not be the place for this thread, but I will take a chance. I am building a new set of speakers. Usually, I go with a full range driver and cabinet to match. This time around, I actually was paid in a pair of Scan Speak 8" drivers for my cabinet work. They cost $450 ea. or about that. I put them in a back loaded horn cabinet and couldn't be more impressed so far. Of course, these drivers are designed to work in multiway speaker design, and so I will be doing my best to find a good tweeter and crossover. I did see at Madisound, a 2 way crossover for about $600/pr. and so that likely will be the way I go for the crossover, or possibly build my own. Now, the usual tweeter used with this driver is also a Scan Speak, with a beryllium cone. At about $500 ea. I can't cut it. I will continue a search for a tweeter that can be crossed over at about 2khz.
Any ideas/experience with this?
Showing 5 responses by 4krowme
holmz,
Points well taken. I really like your idea of an active crossover though. I have done it in the past, but not with quite as good results as I would have liked. The development was by engineer friend of mine who set the frequencies and slopes, etc. The cabinet is a model DNA2 by Decware Audio that I built a couple of years ago. It stands about 39" high X 10" wide X 17" deep. I'm kinda guessing here, but that is in the ballpark. The claims to frequency response by Decware are nearly realized, but I bet not down to the 20hz claimed. Seems like there was a bump at 40hz IIRC. The drivers are 18WU/8741T, which is a 7" midwoofer with a neodymium magnet. FWIW, I have just received an email from the customer who has access to crossover information/design that will solve half of the problem. He will likely use passive for the design, but I will mention the electronic crossover idea anyway. Glad that you mentioned it. The cabinet may seem large, but actual area for a passive crossover would be right in the space behind the woofer. Not ideal if you ask me. I would rather run more wire and two more binding posts, and have a biamp situation. That way, I could go either way with a crossover. Thanks for helping me think this through. I'll sleep on it. |
timlub,
As far away from society as possible, but not far enough. Actually, a little cow town near Cody Wyoming. Ok, I just gotta' say you got me interested. |
holmz,You can see my build of the DNA2 on my systems page. There would be room for a tweeter at the top, above the woofer. Jasper makes my favorite circle jig for routers.
erik_squires,Yah, that makes sense. I will continue with questions at that site.
Much appreciated for the information. This will all have a great outcome. |
As an ending statement, I would like to thank those who helped with this question. I remain fascinated by what I found at DIY Audio. Sometimes site will just supply an overwhelming amount of info, but that was not the case here! There is a very well written thread on the subject, hence my amazement, and not so much confusion. This will make my attempts completely more fun than frustrating.
The End (remember when movies had to tell us when it was over?) |