I use this fuse. Took copper caps from a cheaper fuse, took the ones on this off, refilled cylinder with carbon based Heatsink paste (Arctic mx-5), put new endcaps back on with epoxy glue. The cheaper fuse I sourced for parts is the Aucharm fuse from aliexpress, goes for about $2.
Resolution and distortion are miles ahead of the stock Gustard fuse. |
@rixthetrick in my DAC, I prefer this modded Gustard fuse over the SR Purple. |
The Gustard fuse with the Arctic MX-5 heatsink compound is DEAD SILENT. It has a very calm acoustic pattern, and has gobs of resolution, voices sound extremely convincing. I have tried bypassing my fuses altogether, temporarily with copper foil, and these moddded ones sound very close to a bypass. I don’t think I am missing much, but then again a breaker is something I’d like to try out for sure. The timbre/tonality of the fuse is dependent on the outside cap more than anything else, and there is room to play on that front. |
@oldhvymec No, my DIY fuses are modded. I took the silica and nano copper out of the fuses, and refilled them with Arctic MX-5 heatsink paste. Resealed the fuses with epoxy glue. Stock Gustard is a good fuse, but after the treatments, it plays on a different level. This is a previous post of mine :
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I have some Mad Scientist Audio Graphene contact enhancer. I use it on every unsoldered metal on metal contact in my audio chain, fuses, speaker cables, USB cable, Interconnects, power cables. It gets rid of splashy treble and excessive ringing in the playback, increases resolution by suppressing noise. I can vouch for this 1st hand. I have a hunch that it has something to do with suppressing metal on metal micro arcing. It works, and I can hear the difference very clearly. It does not however change timbre/ tonality of the music. Someone here on Audiogon recommended this brand to me, forgot who it was. |
