Check this out

I would agree with several others above who have expressed their scepticism about the stability of a wood base over time. Wood is notoriously uneven in density and swells and shrinks tremendously with changes in humidity. In the Northeast, the average home is drier than the Sahara in the winter. Even if treated with chemicals, I don't think you can make wood perfectly stable. Woodworkers who make carved bowls often soak the wood in a chemical called PEG which replaces the water in the cell structure and limits the wood movement but even that can't eliminate it 100%. So why build a base from solid hardwood? It's just marketing hype IMHO. Acrylic or MDF with a pretty wood veneer would be better.

There is lots of information on the internet on the dimensional stability of wood. Here is one quote from http://palimpsest.stanford.edu/waac/wn/wn06/wn06-2/wn06-201.html

"There is no known coating which adheres to wood and is also completely impervious to water vapor. Even the most effective coating will permit the eventual equilibration of a coated wood object to the relative humidity and temperature conditions of its surroundings."

So don't take my word for it. Buyer beware! I don't doubt that wood will sound good at least initially. But you won't have a stable platform and that is trouble. Boats, on the other hand, are made to swell with the absorbtion of water. This is taken into account in their design. The swelling of the joints is what makes them tight. I used to have a wooded lapstrake boat (this is where the hull is made up of overlapping boards rather than one sheet of material) It would leak like heck when first put in the water at the beginning of the season but then tighten right up after a few days.

TWL, Do you work for Teres or have some other vested interest here? Sorry but, your defensiveness to reasonable questioning of this issue leads me to question your motives.
I simply point out to others that they should carefully research the subject of wood stability on the internet and form their own opinion.
Notwithstanding your comments, average homes without humidity control are subject to very extreme variations in humidity, particularly here in the Northeast. Perhaps you live elsewhere. As a part time woodworker (I build 18th century reproductions), I am well acquainted with this problem, but as I said, don't take my word for it, just do your homework before investing. I'm sure Teres has done what they can to minimize this issue although I would still suggest they might think about treatment with PEG to replace all water content rather than just trying to seal wet wood.

Actually MDF will not change with temp and humidity. I once soaked a piece of MDF in water for days and could not measure the change with a micrometer. I can't speak for acrylic as I am not sufficiently familiar with the characteristics but perhaps a materials engineer out there can answer this.
You ask how many turntables have MDF bases. I would say a great many starting with the rega. How about speakers as well. Most all are made with MDF and a wood veneer. How many solid hardwood speakers do you know of?

As far as subtle changes in the wood. I am sure that teres has accounted for the most significant changes in their design. I certainly would not expect movement observable to the unaided eye or I would quickly ship my table back. But as you yourself have pointed out to all of us many times in this forum, turntables are exquisitly sensitive devices where tremendous differences in sound quality can be achieved with very subtle changes.
So let's see, should I play my records on a base with random and uneven density that is subject to even subtle expansion and contraction? For my part, I think not. But the ear is king so if it sounds better to you, then I say go for it!

One final response to Dan ed ....
I say wet wood because all wood is wet at some level. The cell structure of wood makes it like a sponge, even when kiln dried, the moisture content is only reduced, never eliminated and will still change to be in equilibrium with the surrounding air.

Yes I realize it works with green (or water logged) wood. You would treat the wood while green then let it dry. I believe it has been used by woodworkers successfully on a wide variety of wood densities. Many turned bowls and vases are made from the exotics you use by just this method. You have to use PEG of the appropriate molecular density - but you have no doubt researched this more than I.
As for MDF, there are newer, moisture resistant varieties that are pretty stable compared to wood when soaked - at least in my experience. I believe they use phenolic resins. But of course, they still will swell some since they are, after all, a wood fiber product

I can't say I'm quite ready to spend $6500 on a TT (notwithstanding your arguements) but I would love to hear a Teres, (even an acrylic base one) and compare it to my Michell Gyro. Where do you live? I am in Central CT, but I get around the country on business from time to time.