Has anyone seen the short video from Virtual Dynamics showing the owner replacing all his speaker screws with all brass screws? I was wondering if you could hear an improvement. It's a cheap tweak, so I thought I might go to Home Depot and try out a set. What can I lose?
The Audiopoint designed and manufactured in 1989 was conceived on the superior conductive musical qualities of 360m brass. Brass was also used by the Starsound members in speakers, electronics and cables. All of this was previous to Virtual Dynamics. Brent and Robert from Starsound shared many of these original applications as well as the conductive makeup of the Sistrum platform with Rick of Virtual Dynamics. Rick has moved some of these concepts well forward especially in the use of magnets and brass as a resonance control in cables and chassis design.
I will applaud Rick in his recomendation of magnets instead of fuses in my system. No fireballs at my house or that of a friend. We both found the sonic upgrade to be immediate and huge. Much more stage, impact and sheer sonic joy. Same goes with the use of AVM that stuff works wonders as well. More music less noise and no damping WOW. Rick is always at the forefront and I believe there is much more on the way. Tom
Anyone else try the brass screw replacement and torque experimentation? I've been experimenting with different in.-lbs. and the results have been interesting. I've only tried 3-10 in.-lbs( I'm not so sure that my old Black & decker is accurate) but so far, regarding torque, too much thins out the soundstage and too little muddies it up. With my B&D driver, on my speakers, 5 in.-lbs seems to be just right( on both tweeters and mid-woofers). But I want to do some more listening and fine-tuning. I sometimes hate being an obsessive-compulsive personality. (O:
Great, thats what we have to do now, get brass screws. Oil, gas, gold, copper now brass will become the next commodity that will will 10fold in the next few months by people like us creating a shortage. Maybe we should keep a lid on this tweak so no politicians or brass ceo's find out about it.
All the hardware in my speakers and electronics are of the non ferrous type. The most musical of this type are those of solid brass. Brass is the metal of music. Tom
I just received an e-mail from the manufacturer of my speakers after I asked them if the screws on my speakers had to be a certain torque. His response was, " You want the screws to be firm, but not too tight to avoid stripping the screw holes."
I posted a little review of the felt tweeter surrounds in the product reviews for tweeks a while back. I did not like the effect after a while. Could just be me though.
Hi Kirk, I used to own the Meadowlark Osprey. Funny how I never knew about the driver damping material, however, I never had to replace a driver while I owned them, nor did I ever have a thought of needing to check for their driver screw torque. Too bad that Meadowlark's no longer around. They sure made some great speakers.
Another FYI - know your speaker when you do this. I have the Meadowlark Audio Blue Heron 2's, and I know for a fact there are layers of 'keldamp' between the drivers and the front baffle... this is a type of elastomer that helps to decouple the resonance and vibration of the driver to the front baffle. I was told years ago the amount of torque is very important as you don't want to over compress the material thus removing the absorbtion / elasticity of the layer... Not too sure how many other speakers have a similar driver setup. Just an FYI.
Have you noticed an improvement with the felt around your tweeters? It makes one wonder why the manufacturer didn't do this if it does improve the speaker (as it is a cheap tweak). I guess the same question would apply to the manufacturer as to why they don't use brass screws on their speaker drivers, assuming they make a sound improvement.
No sides,no flames,no right, no wrong.Just good clean fun here in the Western world.Many paths to salvation via luck or hard work or timing or.....well,don't forget good looks.I wonder what the brass does?Drain mad little electrons like the footers?Glad to hear the news,this is fun.Beats collecting stamps I'm sure....,yeah to hear anything from those is a revelation of sorts,who would of figured???Hey,could you try some more inch lbs until it snaps?That way we'll know how far to go.....your very kind....
Well, I guess I'll be the first to be in line for flames from the other side. I initially equally torqued all my stock screws to the same 8in.-lbs. Soundstage appeared to be a little cleaner and a tad more focussed and centered. Nothing really revelatory. I then put the brass screws in one speaker only. I'll be danged if that speaker with the brass screws didn't suddenly sound a tad louder with a cleaner, crisper sound than the other side. Since I have small mini-monitors, I swapped the speakers and sure enough, the brass-screwed side sounded better. I listened for a while to make sure what I was hearing wasn't some subconscious desire for the sound to be better, then I put the brass screws in the other speaker. Sure enough, the other speaker matched the first with brass screws. I can say that this isn't a night and day difference, but the whole soundstage sounds a bit taller now and wider and deeper. Depth seems to be the most improved. The overall sound is a bit cleaner with better transient response. To my ears, a very slight haze or veil has been removed. I think I'll leave the brass screws in for a while.
Springnr,dat would be da place.Nice to have a friend like that there....the Snap on people were 50 or so and that was 10 years ago.....yeah,its just so easy to get into trouble unless your somewhat hip to that.Kind of like trying to take out scratches on soft metals or acrylics/paint etc.It can be done,BUT........
less to do with resonance and more to do with being non-magnetic. Be very careful with MDF as it will not tolerate many screw swaps before it is stripped then you are up the creek
USblues - In da middle, and mine is cal'ed by a friend who works in a calibration lab.
Also a good point about messing with $$$$ speakers too. I plan to start with TAD 805. With the Tanto speakers I will walk the torque setting up to see if any turn, and might leave them alone, depending on what I see.
Amen Seasoned.For every 20 happy campers,there's going to 1 who wished he never heard of the word Torque.Those wrenches mentioned will be accurate 1/2 the time if that.But what the hey,boys will be boys.Along those lines,I will ask said people who are tweaking "Where is the most accurate reading on a torque wrench"?Cheers,Bob
I would be very careful if you plan to monkey around with your loudspeakers' driver mounting screws. Most higher end speaker manufacturers understand the importance of mounting screws, especially with regards to equal torque and loosening over time. As such, the better manufacturers torque them correctly at the time of assembly and may even add a little thread lock to keep them from loosening away from their original torque.
Some food for thought: Regarding the higher end loudspeakers, just as strong an argument can be made for leaving well enough alone. Once the screws have been "seated" at the time of assembly, it may not be a good idea to break the screws away from their seated position. The integrity of the screw hole may suffer and you may end up with a connection that always needs adjustment from that point on.
I'll probably dig out my Utica 6 -30 inlb screwdriver, and try this tweak. My Gemme Audio Tanto speakers do not have grills, and the fronts are black, so the fun part will be blackening the brass screws.
The Vibratite is the missing link, I think. I have always wanted to tighten my drivers' screws, but I always thought I would just keep having to do it, and that they would eventually strip. Great solution!
Might as well make sure the screws stay torqued too. http://www.threadlockers.com/vibratite.jsp
I torque screws on my spring guns (pellet guns), and use vibratite to ensure they stay put. One of the nice features of Vibratite as a thread locker is that the screw can be removed and inserted several times before it needs retreated.
I think you'll be fine. I just did a torque test on one of the original screws on one of the midwoofers and it was about 10 lbs. Actually, I pre-tested all four screws on a mid-woofer driver and all four were slightly different. Hmmmm... interesting. Also, a correction: it is inch-lbs. not ft.-lbs. Even if you don't hear a dramatic difference, you can always use the Fat Wrench for your hunting and target rifles. Or if you don't hunt or shoot, it would make a great gift for a relative who does. (O: Let's have some fun.
Apparently this Fat Wrench is offered in a couple of versions. Here is a site where the model shows 5-60 lbs. I don't think the differenc ebetween 8 and 10 lbs. would be that dramatic. Chances are if you manually tightened the screws down it would be more than even the 10 lbs. so you should be fine.
Tvad, Sounds like a good idea. I don't have a Wheeler Fat Wrench, but I do have an older Black & Decker battery-powered driver that has similar adjustments. I recall that the video suggested starting at 8 ft.-lbs. torque. I think I'll do the same initially on the stock screws. I just came back from Lowe's and bought 3-packs of solid brass screws of the exact size of my speaker driver's screws. Each pack had six screws at $.98/pk.
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