Cary SLI-80 tweaks and improvements?


Hello all,

I have an older Cary SLI-80 that I'm trying to find a path forward to a wider sound stage and improved dynamics.  In comparing it to my Decware Taboo, yes, it has a boat-load more power available, however, the Decware has a much wider sound stage, better channel separation and decay from instruments like cymbals, compared to the Cary.  The channel separation is much better on the Decware and this is especially apparent with songs that feature heavy panning from left to right and back again.

The Cary is running vintage Bugle Boy 6922's, vintage Sylvania 6S7N's, and Ruby 6550's.  

I have been looking at a couple of different paths forward:

Moving to EL34's or another power tube?

Upgrading the internal capacitors such as upgrading to the F1 mod?

A combination of both?

Any other ideas to try to capture the performance of the Decware are welcomed.

Thank You!

paradisecom

Showing 8 responses by paradisecom

Thanks for the detailed reply.  Mine is not a Signature model.  By looking at the font on the top of the unit, it's probably more of a "first-generation' type.  What KT88's did you eventually land on?

I'm searching for a good local technician so hopefully I can fine someone that's not only competent, but not backed up 6 months!

I emailed Cary this morning to see the costs and turn-around time for the F1 upgrade.  We'll see what they have to say.

I looked at changing speakers for a while, but I really like my present speakers, which are Vienna Acoustics.  I have looked at a pair of Omega bookshelves since they are more sensitive and almost bought a pair.  There isn't much else that I have seen that interests me and fits into my budget.  I also thought about picking up a set of those Klipsch RP-600 MII's since they're relatively cheap just to see if I like them.  I still might do that.

I almost think that I'll eventually land on a Decware Torii which should do enough of everything I want.  The just don't come up very often, though.  :\

 

I received a reply from Cary.  It looks like their upgrades have expanded beyond what's on their website.  They now offer an upgraded choke as well as some Solan bypass caps that can be installed.  Also, the larger coupling caps are now Mundorf caps as decooney mentioned.  Mine must be a bit older since I have the Jensens in the kit.

I'm emailing the gentleman there for some clarification on a couple of items.

There's a local technician that I found that mostly works on vintage guitar tube amps that I have used to test my tubes as I come across them.  I'll see what his thoughts are if he wants to tackle this project.

What's funny about this thread is the amp sounds quite good, actually.  But since we can be a weird bunch and I think I must have been spoiled with the Decware, here I am chasing that last bit of detail.  

Decooney,

I have a couple of other questions:

1) When installing the 4 Hexfreds, do they just replace the standard diodes that are there, while retaining the tube rectifiers, or are they meant to replace the existing tube rectifiers all together?  The installation "diagram" doesn't say anything about this.

2) I can't seem to locate a Grayhill volume control pot mentioned anywhere such as a part number or anything on Cary's website.  Would you have that info, as well?

 

Thanks for all the replies and help, so far!

I actually like the tube rectifiers as well.  They just look cooler, in my opinion.  😎 

I was looking at this photo which shows the internally modified bits and it appears that it matches the diagram I have where the Hexfreds replace the existing standard cylindrical diodes.  It shows the rectifier tubes are still in place on this example:

Cary Audio SLI-80 Signature Stereo Tube Integrated Amplifier - The Music Room (tmraudio.com)

I can see what Cary has to say for clarification, just to make sure, though. 

Cary informed me that the hexfreds just replace the existing diodes and the tube rectifiers stay.

 

Also, does anybody know the plate voltage in these?  I can't find a stated value any where.  It would be helpful for trying different tubes.

I found the plate voltage for mine.  Measured it at 588v.  So for future reference, there it is.

Just for future reference, Cary emailed back a list of bias settings for the various tubes that will work:

 

EL-34 50mA

KT-77 50 mA

KT-88  75mA

6550 75 mA

KT-120 75mA - 80mA

Do not use KT-66's.