Capacitors in Cary PH302 phono amp


I've just bought a S/H Cary PH302 mk-2 phono amp.
I noticed that the 2 caps near front tubes, C15 & C16, appear to be different to the caps shown in the pictures on the Cary website.
Upon closer inspection it appears that these may have been changed by a previous owner. See pic below:
Cary PH302 Capacitors

The substituted caps(?) are Multicap PPMFX types, 1.0uF/200V.
I found a capacitor test that rates these caps very poorly.
My question is what were the original capacitor types and value.
Any suggestions for substitution, other than original?
128x128tobes
Thanks, guys. Tobes, you are right, it is $5.44. for the 400V version, $8.45 for the 600V, at Parts ConneXion. You can see Audio 1's $90 price (charged by Cary,instalation extra) here: http://www.caryaudio.com/upgrades.html

Selectric,your negative experience with Audio 1's, was with Cary equipment, wasn't it? As you can see in link, Cary's pitch for them is quite forceful (being cynical, a sizable unused stock, perhaps? [wink]). Otherwise, afer all this years, would it be possible that Cary discovered some positive synergy using Audio 1's as coupling caps in early Cary tube preamps? As you can see in link, Cary is also offering the coupling cap mod using the Jensen copper/oil caps you mention (in my case it would be for a stock SLP 98 Cary tube preamp)...any further thoughts?

Thanks again!
FWIW, I could have used the 400V PPFXS but decided to replace with a cap of the same spec. Overkill in my application.

Cary have offered the Audio 1 oil caps as an 'upgrade' for some time - I think it was even an option on the SLP98. Again, try Googling for some results - I think you'll find reports of the same type of signature mentioned above.
Unless you like artificially softened transients/veiling, I'd steer away from those caps - there are plenty of other (cheaper) options to experiment with.
Thanks a lot, Tobes. Your input is most appreciated. Clearly, your experience has to be interpreted within the context of your basically analog/tube system,your speakers, your room, and within the frame of your very own preferences regarding sonic attributes.We both can have the exact same sonic attribute preferences but differences in our system components and room may warrant different tunig/tweaking, be it tube rolling or capacitor rolling, and any resulting possible combination of both, whether at the phono=pre, the preamp, the power amp, or any of the sources...not to mention the cable thing...maddening, isn't it!! I gather that if I combine your findings and advice with Upscale Audio's current promotional literature for the SLP-98 Formula 1 Edition (reading between the lines), the way for me to go is no coupling capacitors at all(the cheapest alternative!): http://www.upscaleaudio.com/cary-audio-slp-98l-formula-1-edition/
Quote-
The F1 version will have the all features listed above. Factory-upgraded capacitors, hexfreds, and wiring. Next, we can get yours either with coupling caps or direct coupled. The typical SLP 98 you have read about in reviews has coupling caps. If you make it direct coupled, you will get more pop and snap at the top and bottom and the preamp will be extremely fast. While still tube, it will give you better bass slam. Better than any solid state preamp and will kick the snot out of these $10,000 "reference" preamps from other companies. Want a smoother, more textured sound? Keep the[oil] coupling caps and you will be in heaven.
Unquote

Funny, Tobes, I think what you call "artificially soften transients/veiling," they call it "smother, more textured sound." Positive language,no doubt, for those that don't see any nagatives in such preference.
Ceph44, I don't have direct experience using the Audio 1 oil caps for coupling (though my impressions of the cap in a PS application seems to mirror those who have).

I'm sure they would be 'smooth' if that's what you're after - I was initially beguiled by the sound of the stock PH302.
However, if my experience is anything to go by, I'm guessing you'll eventually grow disatisfied with the sound because at the end of day it makes music sound less real. YMMV.
Thanks, Tobes. Your input is truly appreciated. I think we are on the same page...I don't like my sound unnaturally smooth, I go for tri-dimentional, accurate, transparent, natural sound, no extra detail, no euphonic colorations. After all the name of the game in its origins was--and still is for me--"Hi-Fidelty." A lot of gourmet, a la carte audio,away from ultimate fidelity, aimed at obtaining a sound that pleases (sounds nice)to the listener's is out there under the "audiophilia" banner.

In my particular case,I have several bona fide hi-end preamps (3 tubed and 2 solid state) and amps (2 tubed and 4 solid state, as well as DACs (1 tubed and 4 solid state). So, besides potential tube/capacitor rolling (not into op-amp rolling yet), I can mix and match components approching that evasive ultimate fidelity, gradually, like a shooter hitting the target and approching the bulls eye from different directions. I dare to surmise that you had initially too much of the tube recipe, and removing the oil capacitor's added "smothness" out of you Cary phono-pre, your main source, improved significantly for you the whole downstream performance of your very fine tube-centric system.

All the best, Cep44