bypassing a crossover in a two-way


i am not a tech person so forgive any ignorance. i want to bypass the crossover in a simple and cheap two way, because the main driver is the same one used in the manufacturer's crossoverless design.

the manufacturer gave me the following instructions: "A 0.68uf cap in series with the tweeter + lead is all you need,, - to the - binding post." I'm not sure what this means. looking into the speaker i can see the black and red wires leave the speaker leads and inter the crossover network. leaving the crossover are two sets of black and white wires, one set going to the leads on the woofer, the other connected to the single wire from the tweeter.

am i to cut the speaker wire before it reaches the crossover and then insert the cap? if so, how, specifically, do i these three connections to a single cap (1. the input from the speaker leads, 2. the output to the woofer, and 3. the output to the tweeter)? i am not able to visualize his statement in relation to what i've described as the inside the speaker cabinet. i've looked elsewhere on the web but to no avail. i realize it is simple but just don't have the background.

any help would be very much appreciated.
thomp9015

Showing 5 responses by thomp9015

wow, that is a darn good idea, i will definitely do that.

thanks for the suggestion, i can't wait to try it
thanks for your help...do i have this right? i connect the main driver directly to the binding post. in addition, i put the capacitor inbetween the positive binding post and the positive wire of the tweeter. if so, what happens to the negative tweeter wire?
it sounds like 240zracer and gregm are saying the same thing, which finally occured to me at lunch today...at least they seem to be saying the same thing (tweeter + goes to cap and other end of cap to + binding post, then negative tweet wire straight to negative binding post).

one tweeter wire is black and the other is black and white, while the main driver wires are black and red. should the black be the negative in both cases?

anyway, thanks again guys.

oh yeah, the manufacturer told me that the cap was 0.68uf so i will take him at his word (fortunately these were rather inexpensive, though i don't won't to make a truly boneheaded error and blow something i don't need to!).
240zracer, i'll email the manufacturer with your info and see what he says...the main driver should be flat to 10,000 Hz ...thanks!
eldartford

it is the same single driver used in the (subsequent)crossoverless design, it is full range to 10kh and the crossover was removed in the later model so it could be directly wired, though the SUPER tweeter was retained with a capacitor. the manufacturer didn't sedm to think it was any big deal, as a way to upgrade to the newer model.