better wood for a plinth

For my SP10 I went the CLS way trying to follow the pathway of Jean Nantais. I used a core of MDF wrapped in a layer of 1/2 acrylic bonded with a flexible adhesive, then sandwiched with a Baltic birch plywood, and wrapped in a mahogany veneer. Was a very good plinth and an excellent table. One I should have kept. 

I think you mean CLD (Constrained Layer Damping), not CLS.  CLS was a great ESL made by Martin-Logan.

Mijo, The dogma would say you ought not to put any material between two layers where you want the impedance to energy sharing to be minimal. (IOW, you want to maximize the contact areas between the two materials to achieve effective CLD.) I refer to your warning to use felt between oak and metal. The felt might work to avoid staining of the steel, but it defeats the purpose of the layering.  Similarly, the old practice of using a rubber profile between TT chassis and wood plinth is now frowned upon.  Jean Nantais is among those who pointed this out.

I used Mayan Walnut for my Sony 3000 TT.

Photo in my virtual system.

@ncarv 

I think you meant to write Bubinga, from Africa.

@lewm Similarly, the old practice of using a rubber profile between TT chassis and wood plinth is now frowned upon

I assume you would include the Herbies isolating washers between chassis and plinth as well. Honestly, my plinth looks great and sounds better than I could have hoped, so I don’t understand any controversy in what I’ve done. I also dampened my Thorens underneath with a stick on rubber dampening product that I bought from Parts Express. Maybe there are variables when it comes to suspended tables versus other design types but the isolating material that I use between chassis and plinth gets the job done.

@orionpcgames If you find that you need to cut and join 45 degree corners. I’d advise taking your wood to a picture framer. The can cut a perfect miter joint.