Best Way to Integrate Subwoofers?


What’s the best way to integrate subwoofers with monitors, or speakers?

I’m not referring to placement, or room treatments. I’m referring to what’s the best way to integrate via a crossover, without a custom dedicated crossover.

Do you run two separate signals to the subs vs the speakers and supress the lower frequencies to the speakers, while supressing the upper frequencies to the subs? It would seem that this method might allow you to move the crossover to higher frequencies, relying more on the subs for the bass and lower mids - if that is beneficial. It would also seem that this method would permit you to taylor the slope of the crossover to minimize overlap of frequencies between the subs and the speakers, which might improve clarity - depending on the capability of the particular crossover used. And, I suppose it implies / requires a separate crossover to be used to run both signals through to route the mids and highs only to the speakers and the bass and lows only to the subs.

Or do you run the same signal to the subs and speakers and just emphasize the subs up to the bottom of the frequency range of the speakers, crossing over from the subs to the speakers at that point (crossover notch). It would seem that this method would require you to fix the crossover at the bottom of the frequency range of the speakers, wherever that may be, and would not require a separate crossover to be inserted into the signal path. And it would seem to imply that the slope of the crossover would be limited to the slope inherent in the subs and speakers, which would limit the flexibility of the crossover.

Or, does it make any difference?
bassdude

Showing 10 responses by bassdude

So... if you use an external crossover (other than the one, which may be built in to the sub) - do you insert it after the subs?  I guess that location would use the sub controls to adjust the curve of the subs, and the external crossover to adjust the curve of the mains?
So... I assume that means only the frequencies allowed to pass from the subs to the mains via the mains amplifier are presented by the mains... and... that the controls on the subs provide the various adjustments of how much and how those frequencies pass to the mains (at least for the JL subs).

I did take a look at the JL Audio CR-1 crossover reviews and found this discussion of how the reviewer connected it and dialed in the crossover - which is also very informative. 

https://www.soundstageultra.com/index.php/equipment-menu/537-jl-audio-cr-1-active-subwoofer-crossove...

It appears that discussion, moreless follows your suggestion above.

This all makes sense and is very helpful.    
“bstatmeister” 

So - if the subs have their own amplifier, then both the main amp and the sub amp are driving the subs, and you adjust the subs volume down to mate with the volume of the mains, and then the preamp volume control adjusts both volume levels in synch?

And, ideally then, the subs just present the frequencies below the frequencies inherently presented by the mains - except for a bit of overlap at the bottom frequencies of the mains - which I suppose can introduce some lack of clarity, if the subs can not match the speed, etc. of the mains?

And, I suppose, that does not relieve the mains of presenting some of the lower frequencies to improve clarity of the mains?

Just wondering... because... that seems to be the easiest method, but I’ve read that relieving the mains of some of the lower frequencies, and allowing the subs to extend up a bit, may add clarity, soundstage, and other benefits - which I assume can’t be done without a crossover that can adjust both to avoid overlap.
“erik_squires”

I guess the method you describe allows for only the sub amp to present the signal for lower frequencies, and allows the use of an external crossover to elevate the frequencies of the mains, if desired. 
Well - you’ve all given me a lot to think about and experiment with.

I do have a couple of REL T9i’s, as well as a Velodyne and a KEF sub.  So, I guess I’ll start with the REL suggestions... and... go from there.  

But, it sounds like I should have started with the AudioKinesis Swarm, or something like that - perhaps.

We shall see.  
“Sandpat”

What is a “grounding block?”

How did you add it?

“Adding a grounding block to my subs just perfected the sound even further; tightened everything up and allowed me to hear the clear definition between sub frequencies.“
So... what are some of the other grounding blocks you all may use, besides the $5,000 Nordost unit???
@shakira

“Rel ,the best and easiest way to go.
2 t7i”

Yes... I hope the t9i is as well. Just bought a pair and haven’t set them up and integrated them yet. I have read some comments that they think the t7i may have a little better detail resolution and clarity, because the smaller drivers are faster and more responsive. I guess for some of us it’s not about how loud the bass is, but how resolved, tight and textured it is - the resolution and accuracy.

And I think I read the same thing about the Vandersteen subs - smaller drivers with faster, more accurate, more resolved sound.
Hope so - I really don’t want to have to sell my RELs and get the SWARM system.  Though I know Dukes speakers are some of the best sounding available.  His Jazz Modules were legendary.
So you think my 2 T9i’s (10”), a Velodyne 12”, and a KEF 10” (I think) would work fine?   Both the Velodyne and KEF are high quality subs with little use and in like new condition.  The Velodyne has a room correction circuit and 4 phase settings - a very good sub.