do not ignore documented science, ANY darn good speaker, essentially flat at normal volumes, will sound like it has weak lows and weak highs at very low volume. It doesn’t, your ears sensitivity changes at low volume.
https://www.izotope.com/en/learn/what-is-fletcher-munson-curve-equal-loudness-curves.html?srsltid=AfmBOorT6xVQNLA5aCeK5tp-Q5XexV1F5_1gWwA1imER0w5nP0bghaZB
IF a speaker sounds good at very low volumes, without compensation, then it has to have weak mids, i.e. boosted lows and boosted highs, exactly what is needed for the majority of human’s ears as documented by Fletcher Munson.
Played at normal volumes, it would sound boomy and too bright at the same time, i.e. it’s weak mids would be revealed by your ears when they are at their normal volume sensitivity.
All kinds of features have disappeared during 'pure' 'direct' 'minimal' trends, and frankly now getting away with the low cost of missing features.
I'm 76, in my youth ALL equipment came with 'loudness' compensation, both a stupid name (it's low volume compensation) and often very poorly implemented and explained. Balance, tone, Stereo/Mono/REV mode switches ..... tape or processor loops, all gone in a lot of todays offerings
To get remote volume of any non-remote equipment, in my case my full-featured McIntosh mx-110z tube tuner preamp, I use a Chase Remote Line Controller RLC-1. Aside from remote volume and balance, it it has automatic and progressive bass boost for very low volume use. It requires proper understanding and use, but it's implementation works perfectly for me. It doesn't boost the highs, I find maintaining the bass is what keeps music involving for me the rare times I listen that low.
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this is the lowest price for a working Chase RLC-1 I have seen since I’ve been buying them (I have 4, got another 3 for friends)
Chase RLC-1 with Remote, $50. delivered, just listed
Your system, your existing speakers, any future speakers, will sound more involving at low volumes.
You must have a remote, no controls on the box
unplugged/plugged in all lights blink restores it’s defaults: everything centered, no boost. Adjust your preamp for ’normal’ listening volume. leave the preamp’s volume there for ever.
up, use the chase, no compensation
dn, use the chase, after you go below the default volume, the Chase automatically and Progressively begins bass boost. back up, the boost lessens and back to zero boost at it’s default volume.
I only use 1 in/out but it has 4 line in and two identical out (front and rear are identical, from the early quad era of simply 4 speakers in a room with a fader)
If you don’t like it, I’ll buy it from you.
variety of uses
1. main system, select source at preamp; preamp out to chase to amp, all it’s features, remote balance: once you have it, you will not want to live without it.
2. office, I just use it for remote system power (I switched rear outlet), saves me walking around my desk, that’s it, the Luxman Integrated has it’s own remote volume, manual balance and manual input switch, I have to get up to put a tape or lp on anyway
3. garage/shop: alternate use thru the processor loop of my Yamaha receiver for remote volume and mute while working on projects down there. I can listen with or without it instantly, there is no way anyone has ever been able to detect these in any of my systems over the years, just the benefits of it's features.
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Chase Innards, a Motorola Chip I presume for the display and remote, a Philips Chip for the features, zero noise (105 db s/n ratio) useful features.
I just bought this spare unit, I will add a front toggle on/off switch when it arrives, so I can get back to defaults without unplugging it.
One unit arrived no good, the little transformer on the power board had come off, it must have been seriously dropped,
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I see you have started 5 separate discussions, all come down to this one, revealing that you need to listen at low volumes. Your ear’s sensitivity at low volumes is the source of the lack of body, and perhaps lack of brilliance.
Please trust that Fletcher Munson sensitivity is real, well known, and the solution is easy, some slight signal compensation that is needed by nearly anyone, any speakers, any system, try that 1st, you have some very nice equipment.
I am saying, for me, I don’t need the highs boosted, you might, if so, remember it is a deviation from a speaker designer’s goal (essentially flat at normal volumes), best accomplished by signal compensation, in your case most of the time, but still it can be automatically variable, or manually variable relative to known facts about our hearing. Ignoring this is like a Cat on a Hot Tin Roof. Self-Thickening Socks are needed as the Sun moves.
1. L-Pads in the speakers, you would do well with mine, or any vintage speaker that included L-Pads or a Switchable Resistor Network. However, they are best used to adjust in the listening space, for ’normal listening levels’, as they are ’set and forget’, not progressive. I adjust mine, takes about 1-1/2 days of careful work with a SPL Mic and CD with Test Tones. That is for ’normal’ and louder. I’m a big fan of adjustability for a listening space, and/or adjusting for individual ’general’ preferences, but this still does not solve low level listening.
2. Equalizer: I just tried a DBX Clone 31 band dual channel equalizer, it is also ’set and forget’, ’in or out’, I took it out
3. Chase RLC-1 is automatic and progressive, it works, remotely, very much like my Yamaha Receiver which has two volume controls that you manually setup and adjust:, one marked ’volume’ (set it like a preamp, for normal volume, leave it there; and the other marked ’loudness’. start ’flat’, it progressively implements Fletcher Munson bass boost and also boosts highs as you lower the volume, louder than flat, you raise the main volume control, remember to lower it to ’normal. this implementation can work, but I know, and still turn the wrong one, which is why using the Chase and re-setting it to it’s defaults is handy.
 
As I mentioned, I use the Chase for Remote Volume and Mute when working, thru the ’adapter’ loop.
You can view the photos large enough to see all the details/features of that CR-Yamaha CR-1040 Receiver here, those were the days.
https://www.audiogon.com/systems/11519
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I just destroyed my spare Chase Unit, the 1/2" drill bit was dull, and while drilling, the bit dug in, the entire unit violently flipped 180 degrees, slammed the crap out of my arm, and the transformer dislodged, breaking it’s tiny wire, not enough clearance to solder, I can’t fix it, so I’m in the market for a working spare at a great price.
I don’t need a remote, the lights just need to blink when it’s plugged in, that's enough for me to take a chance on one without a remote.
I always want to positively know when it is at default settings, and unplugging it is not convenient. A rotary switch in the power wire that I can reach will be as easy as a face mounted toggle switch, with less risk, I need a new 1/2" metal bit or set of metal bits too.
You win some, you lose occasionally, oh well, happy new year.
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OP
You said "due to age and ear issues", so I am assuming you already have had your hearing tested, perhaps already use hearing aids some or most of the time .....
IF not, I also recommend having your hearing evaluated. Fully normal, or using hearing aids: Fletcher Munson compensation is still needed for low volume listening. Other hearing issues and solution may ALSO be needed.
If you rode the NYC subways in the 60's, or if past 50 years old, more than likely you will find age related reduced sensitivity to high frequencies, and like me, you may find other differences, in my case a life long hereditary thickening of a bone was revealed along with age related (I'm 76) diminished sensitivity to highs,
My experience: got prescription for from my GP; had them inspected and cleaned by ENT specialist who then gave me a prescription for a professional audiologist who gave me a print-out chart of the test results and a couple of cost estimates, $5k; $6k..
I searched online found free testing by a 2nd professional audiologist, they programmed a demo pair, holy smokes what a difference, left with a test chart and a few cost options, $6k; $7k.
Costco Hearing Centers are Excellent, top models only $1,600.
After online research, I knew they were a good option, joined for $60. They were as equipped and professional as the audiologists, and offer only the top models of 3 makers: Philips; Rexton; Jabra, 6 months trials. I tried Philips 9040's, compared Rexton walking around the store, they upgraded me during the trial period to Philips 9050. They work fully with Apple and Partially with Android Smart Phones. Very good, it was a hard choice, at the 98th day of Audicus Trial, I chose the Audicus Omni 2.
Work Fully with Apple and partially or fully with Android:
Tap your ear lobe to answer and tap to end a call is one feature, and using the mic on the hearing aid for calls (rather than the mic in the phone) means I can answer a call without opening my flip phone, turn my head, walk around, even out of the room when on the phone. The phone connects to the car, and I may have the convertible top down, the Audicus sounded better to callers.
Audicus.com
My final choice. $1,900. Mostly online, give them your test chart or take their online test. video zoom appts, far better pricing, 100 day trial. I'm close enough to one of only a few of Audicus's physical offices in NYC, took my test results, they fit me with a pair of Omni Series 2, they work fully with both Apple and my Android, as well as sound terrific, including their Music, and Live Music modes which I found preserved the wide frequency range and imaging of my system better than Philips 9040 or 9050 which are very good, you may prefer either, it's that close.
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hmmm, the implementation I like: bass boost is automatic and progressive when the volume is lowered below default, so using an RLC-1 to lower a sub’s volume is a no-no. all ’loudness’ controls implementation needs to be 1st understood, 2nd setup properly with the ’other’ volume control (your preamp’s volume), 3 REMEMBERED,
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a ’new in the box’ was listed 2 days ago, $225., make offer option included
all the used Chase RLC-1 units listed now are missing the remote which you definitely need because there are no controls on the unit. a few remotes are listed separately.
IF all it’s lights blink when plugged in, that is normal, and they all use the same KP-1 remote, no pairing required. You could risk buying a remote and buying a blinking one, but no guarantee, only 1 remote listed now.
To be certain it is in it’s default centered positions, you need to unplug it, when you plug it back in all the lights blink, press the remote they stop blinking, it goes to defaults with VCR input selected: balance, volume, all adjustments centered. I just drilled a hole and added a toggle switch to one so I can reset to defaults easily.
someone uses it to control the volume of a stereo pair of self-powered subs
"It’s perfect for controlling subwoofer volume from IR, which is how I used it. But it’s stereo on each of the 4 channels so you can control levels for dual subs. Perfect for AVRs that don’t have an easy separate subwoofer volume."
It has two sets of identical outputs (RCA), and a Fader, so it could control the volume of 4 subs, and adjust one pair of them separately if desired.
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hifiguy42
yesterday I came across an old discussion, it mentioned 4 other maker’s devices that can add remote volume, various features,
the Chase is the only one that has the automatic and progressive bass boost for low volume listening, and the only one that has remote balance, a feature you will never want to live without once you have tweaked the imaging of a few tracks, a very small balance refinement can make a very large difference.
Pioneer RC760
Creek OBH-10
Yamaha
Acoustic Research
................
New ALPS POT, remote control, 4 pr rca in, 1 pr rca out
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I have no idea what or why you are getting noise, I have never had any situation with any of my RLC-1, anywhere in any system, there must be a way to avoid it.
Previously, how was your vinyl set up? Re-create that, Chase out, still noise free?
IOW, perhaps moving something, something else happened, another connection got moved .....
Out of nowhere, I used to get problems that turned out to be the very worn and slightly undersized rca jacks of my McIntosh MX110z tube tuner/preamp. I’d work on the CD cables, and the tape player’s cable at the other end would be moved inadvertently. That’s when I changed to Locking RCA connectors,
When Audio Classics went over it, they routinely changed all the MX110z’s RCA jack panels to new gold plated ones, so glad they did.
There is no reason not to use it for normal or higher volumes, still get it's remote features: once it gets back up to it's default volume or higher, no signal modification is happening.
And, the two sets of rca outputs 'front' and 'rear' are identical, it is from the weird days of early quad, no processing, where they just put 4 speakers in a room with a front/rear fader.
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