Best DIY power cable. Why not make?

@slaw - how about....

1. completely remove a piece of the cable's outer jacket, such that you can insert the wires comfortably into the assembled plug
2. cut a piece of heat-shrink that is  long enough to cover the exposed wires into the plug, in addition to about one inch of the outer jacket

That way the wires have some protection
If you can manage two pieces of heat-shrink even better 

I think that would be my preference

It may make the whole process a little easier and perhaps result in a nicer finish.

Regards

Sorry I’m late to the game - Thanks for the mention(s) guys :-)

Here is a brief history of some things I have tried...

Started with Bulk Furutech FP-3TS762 (10 awg) and FP-314Ag-II (14 awg) cables and Vanguard IEC/mains connectors
- these were better than stock power cables

Next - tried DH Labs Power Plus(12 awg) and Encore (14 awg) cables with Vanguard IEC/mains connectors
- these were really very close to the performance level of the Furutech cables, but much more affordable

Next - I stripped the wires from a piece of Home Depot 12 gauge extension cord and braided them - attached Vanguard IEC/mains connectors
- SURPRISE! - they outperformed both of the above cables

Next - I stripped the wires from the DH Labs and braided them, attached the Vanguard IEC/mains connectors
- these outperformed all of the above cables

I then developed the Helix design as detailed on my web site and upgraded the IEC/mains connectors to the Sonar Quest silver plated copper.
http://image99.net/blog/files/be8de0c383c5434907610d6b55049e69-75.html

I use a single wire for the live conductor from either DH Labs or Furutech cables, but a different bulk wire for the ground and neutral conductors - (see my web site).

I use the heavier gauge DH Labs/Furutech conductors for the power components and extension cables and the lighter gauge DH Labs/Furutech conductors for source components.

I promote crimping and soldering spades onto ALL wires because I have found they provide better performance and it adds to the safety aspect of the design. i.e. they will not pull out of the connectors

So - Furutech or DH Labs ?
- I now use DH Labs because there is very little between them when used in the helix design
- I even have one PC that uses the same wire used for the ground and neutral conductors - i.e. stranded Mil Spec 12 AWG Silver Plated Copper Wire, Cryo Treated and it sounds very close to the named brands

Why Sonar Quest IEC/Mains Connectors?
- they are very well made solid copper with a very heavy silver coating - yet to wear off after dozens of insertions
- the pins of the mains plug are very flat - and provide a great connection
- the IEC connectors clamp like a vice - I first plug them into my guitar amp to loosen them a little

What improvements were observed?

I have found that source components show a greater improvement, I suspect because their power supplies are not as "able" as those generally found in power amps.

However, the improvements in my amp - a NAIM 5i MKII integrated amp - was less noticeable at first, but some subtle improvements observed applied more to the fine details of venue acoustics, hall reverberations and imaging.

Other system components: Bluesound Node 2 and Simaudio MOON LP5.3 RS phono stage

Dynamic performance, clarity and imaging are probably the most noticeable improvements across all components

The cables/conductors/connectors on the web site is only one option, so try others brands if you already have some power cables lying around.

Feedback from others that have tried them is very favorable

I have tried some commercial products up to $1500 - they have since all been returned or sold on.

Hope that helps - Steve

@geoffkait - I frequently use the nylon "expandable" sleeve of different types because of its insulation properties

Some questions in my mind...
- does Carbon fibre sleeve  conduct electricity ?
- if so it could be dangerous on mains leads if it touched a live conductor inside the plug?
- If used on speaker cables or IC's would it  cause interference (RFI/EMI,  eddy currents etc.) in the actual conductors?
- also, I think the debate is ongoing as to whether braided shielding is a good or bad thing on cables - would carbon fiber have a similar effect?

Can you "seal" the cut end  (as with nylon) to stop it from unraveling?

I haven't tried it in any cable applications to date so I cannot confirm either way.

I know a person in the cables/connector business that believes the use of carbon fibre, particularly on RCA plug housings  may "interfere" with the other properties of the RCA if it is not designed properly
- he has 30+++ years experience so I trust his opinion.

But - if you are smart enough to incorporate it into your cable's design/properties it might it might be advantageous?

Not much help I'm afraid

But I don't think I will be using it any time soon.

Regards - Steve

@Leezmaze - $10-30 may get you a 12 gauge  extension cord - then you have to add plugs

Like these
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vanguard-For-Audio-24K-Gold-Plated-IEC-connector-US-plug-C-120G-P-120G/1813...

or these
https://www.ebay.com/itm/pair-Rhodium-Plated-C-037-IEC-plug-P-037-US-mains-connector-for-power-cable...

I just used a standard 12 gauge extension cords - good for Source components and smaller amps.

The connectors actually make a significant difference

Make sure you strip the outer sleeve and braid the three conductors. If you like you can finish off with some expandable nylon sleeve - it protects the conductors and looks a little nicer

Straight 12 gauge with the sleeve intact will not yield much of an improvement (if any) over stock cables.

Make sure you get the polarity correct.

Regards

@leexmaze - I will try :-)

My  Braiding is simply a criss-cross affair...
- Take the three conductors and attach them to the IEC plug
- plug the connector into an unused component (if you have one)
- or hold it in a vice
- you can even wedge it in a drawer or tape it to an table top if all else fails
- allow the live conductor to hang free
- take the ground and neutral conductors and cross them over the top of the live conductor
- then pass them to the back of the live conductor and cross them again.
- bring them to the front again and cross them - repeat until finished

Each time the neutral and ground conductors cross the signal conductor - alternate the conductor position i.e....
- place the neutral next to the live conductor for one crossing and then the ground next to the live conductor for the next crossing

The braiding needs to be "reasonably tight" - about 1.5 inches between crossings 

You may find the live conductor ends up being a bit longer than the ground and neutral - just trim to the same length.

I have tried a more normal braid i.e. criss-cross alternating conductors - but this method seems to work better.

Hope that helps - steve

@leezmaze - the rhodium plated plugs are the most "affordable" I could find on eBay

I actually prefer the Sonarquest or Vanguard silver plated copper because silver plated copper has the best conductivity rating

Pure copper (not plated) have a tendency to oxidize - whereas the silver sulfide on the silver plated plugs can easily be cleaned. Having said that I am yet to clean the Sonarquest plugs I have after 3-4 years of use.

Vanguard silver plated copper are a little more affordable, but are not as well made, but I still have a set of them that are 3-4 years old and have yet to see signs of tarnish as well.

The Sonaquest IEC connectors are better because they clamp like a vice

I listed that plug because you were looking for a $10-30 power cable, so I posted the more affordable plugs. I have used plugs like these also, but they are not as good as Vanguard or Sonarquest.

There is not a lot to choose between Gold plated or Rhodium plated copper from a performance perspective - they simply do not perform as well as Silver plated copper.

Beware - some silver plated or rhodium plated plugs are brass under that plating, they pale in comparison to the silver plated copper .

In the end it all comes down to what you are prepared to spend - just giving you some options :-)

I use Sonarquest on all my power cables these days

Hope that helps - Steve

@sophie999 - also take a look at these

http://image99.net/blog/files/d048bbacfce9bcad4a025be804771d9a-76.html

And get these Bananas - they outperform bare wire

http://image99.net/blog/files/f6ae775e30339e2b0375b739988237b7-77.html

Duelund wire would be good for the signal conductor, but it is not required for the neutral

BTW - that is my website - so if you have any questions ask away

Cheers

A word of warning regarding the use of solid core conductors for power cables...

They can...
- break
- come out of the plugs/connectors

Granted after a while - but that time frame really depends on the user

I’m all for safety and will always use stranded conductors.

@sophie999 - apologies for the delay - been busy :-)

RE: -

Is there a huge advantage in twisting conductors around each other vs just running them next to each other?

Yes there is an advantage to twisting conductors - it actually reduces the effect of EMI/RFI - it’s called the "Proximity Effect" - look it up on the web.

You will find postings that trivialize the impact of this effect, but it is my belief it has a far greater impact on cable perofrmance than those postings makes you believe.

WRT:

@ Williewonka: So I can just use the cheap monoprice wire for the ground component next to higher quality wire for the signal component?

Correct! - but to add to that...
- I believe the neutral conductor can be of lower quality than the signal/live conductor, but it should be of a heavier gauge than the signal/live conductor.
- and the ground should be at least the same gauge as the signal/live conductor
- there is no benefit in making the ground a larger gauge or from a higher quality material

If you think of the conductors as a garden hose ...
- water in a 1/2" diameter hose has a defined pressure.
- attaching a smaller hose to the 1/2" hose would increase pressure and impede water flow in the 1/2" hose
- attaching a larger hose to the 1/2" hose would reduce pressure and enhance water flow in the 1/2" hose.

Due to many other factors it is not a "complete" analogy - but it gets the point across...
- a larger neutral conductor is better for all cables, i.e. Speaker and IC’s as well
- to keep it simple - I just make the neutral twice the gauge of the live/signal conductors

I believe there there are formulas for the ratio of Signal/Live and Neutral conductors, but for the DIYer - getting the exact gauge for the neutral may be problematic.

So - to summarize the three conductors
- SIGNAL/LIVE - highest quality material possible for best results
- NEUTRAL - lower quality than the signal conductor but 2x the Live
- GROUND - any grade will suffice - same gauge as the Live conductor

Having said that - the quality of the neutral highlighted on my web site is actually very good and can be used for both signal/live and neutral conductors. But the finished product is just a "tad’ less responsive than the DH Labs/Furutech cables mentioned.

BTW- you may find comments elsewhere that mixing different gauge conductors in a single cable is not advisable
- but during my cable journey I have not found anything to support this view
 
Hope that helps - Steve

@dgarretson - I agree with your design approach - specifically for that application - it makes a lot of sense.

May I suggest braiding the three main conductors - not twisting them - it should improve dynamic performance and noise floor even further.

My helix design is for individual component power cables only.

I’ve never dealt with balanced power - thanks for that info.

Regards - Steve

Todd - the Cardas solder is as good as any I mentioned - it will perform well.

BTW: I have been using eutectic solder for the past few months and now prefer it to the silver solder because it hardens quicker, which I think makes for a better joint. The sound has not suffered at all, so it seems to work very well

Like you, I started with bulk cable. Once I tried the Helix geometry I simply "re-purposed" the wires from my Furutech and DH Labs cables as the Live conductors in my Helix Cables - and they worked extremely well  
But it did seem almost "criminal" to cut away all that insulation AND the  braided screen from the Furutech bulk cable.

FYI - the helix neutral and ground wires do provide a very effective screen for the live wire, protecting it from EMI/RFI and limiting the EMI/RFI from the live wire also.

So when you decide to make  Helix cable - re-use the wires inside the bulk cable you purchased

Good luck with your cables - Steve

@toddrhodes - the spades I use are nothing special - just plated copper

You can get them from Radio Shack (or similar stores) - I also get them from stores that sell car parts - 10-12 gauge should do nicely.

Try this place
https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&u...

The spades above do not degrade the performance of the cable as long as good wire and good connectors are used - their electrical path is far too small to make a significant difference

The IEC Connectors and Plugs I use have a curved clamp - once they are tightened around the spade there is little possibility thay will come apart
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/SONAR-QUEST-CRYO-Ag-Audio-Grade-Silver-plated-IEC-plug-US-main-plug-sonarque...

I am not saying the Sonar Quest are better than the Furutech or Oyaide connectors, but they are very good and cost much less. They have a thick coating of very pure silver so they will not tarnish quickly or wear through to the solid copper pins under normal use.

I have been developing power cables for a few years and started with Furutech and DH labs bulk cable, but quickly found using a better cable geometry outperforms them by a significant margin.

I have tried bare wire joints, soldered wire, crimped spades and crimped + soldered spades and found the last of those methods provided the best performance. Others may have found differently.

I would invest in good crimping pliers - like those on my web site below - they make a huge difference to the finished joint and require less solder

I like eutectic solder or 4% WBT solder. BUT - do not use just any old solder because it will degrade the sound.

Here is a link to the Helix Power Cable that I use
http://image99.net/blog/files/category-002ahelix-power-cable.html

At first glance it may appear complex, but it is actually quite simple if you follow the technique in the link and it will provide performance that few other cables can compete with. Once person that tried them promptly replaced all of his Nordost cables

I can also highly recommend the speaker and interconnect cables on my site - I have compared them to TOTL Cardas cables and the Helix sounded more complete with a huge sound stage.

If you have any other questions just ask away

Good luck with your DIY - it’s worth the effort :-)

Regards - Steve

Todd - they are in the process of re-sourcing that gauge wire.

However - they do have some stocks left of the previous wire, but in order to purchase it you have to send them an email and they will setup a manual order

Here is the email they sent to me...

Hi Stephen,

 We are replacing this wire with 10 awg product that is of the same Mil Spec as the rest of our Mil Spec wires so although we do have stock we have removed it from our site. If you would like to order some Lyn can put through an offline order for you. We have 250 ft of each colour in stock cryo treated.

Alas, I do not know what that manual process involves - sorry

Try emailing them at - sales @ takefiveaudio.com 
- I had to put the spaces each side of the @ in the address to prevent this interface from removing it

A fellow DIYer could not get TFA to deliver to Bulgaria, so he sourced this  wire and reported excellent results
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-37-0-4-10AWG-PTFE-teflon-silver-plated-copper-wire-speaker-wiring-/171102498724?hash=item27d680efa4 

Hope that helps - Steve