Best Capacitors for Crossovers

I highly recommended Jupiter copper foil caps. I prefer them to Duelund and have tried both. Far superior to Mundorf in every way, but most especially in the mids and micro details. The Jupiter cap is very linear with no part of the sound spectrum highlighted.  I find the top of the line Mundorfs a tad boosted in the highs. The Duelunds a tad bumped in the upper mids. The Jupiers are so smooooth! 

Unlikely you ruined the cap by heat to be honest. It is possible, but my goodness you would have to turn it up to 800 degrees or more and hold it there for a long time. By long I mean over a minute or two. 

Also, the best sounding resistor I have used is made by Path Audio. I think Parts Connextion sells them. Very good indeed and a tad expensive to be sure.

These new CMR caps from Clarity look interesting. Love to know if they sound as musical and lovely as the Duelund and Jupiter copper foils caps? While the V-caps are rated very well I never liked their uber detail and relative thin sounding character. I hope the Clarity CMR cap is not from that sonic camp? 
 

Please let me know the components you are using. What caps and resistors etc.  This will help me better tell you what to expect and break in based on my experience with these various parts and brands.

Nice! Well that tweeter matched with that particular cap will give a very detailed sound that will certainly start off hot sounding. The Jantzen silver cap is known to be very detailed and tipped up in the highs. Even after burn in that personality will prevail. 

I have had great luck matching ribbon tweeters with copper foil caps from the likes of Jupiter. I had that combo with Raal ribbon tweeters and it was wonderful. I think burn in will be closer to at least 100-150 hours to be honest. 

For wire I highly recommend a brand new affordable wire made by Duelund that copies and betters the wonderful NOS Western Electric copper stranded wire. Parts Connextion sells it for $10 a meter and it is very special. I have wired my complete system with the Western Electric NOS wire popularized by Jeff Day. This wire has caused many of us to sell of thousands of dollars worth of Aphile cable for better sound with the WE16 NOS cable. Well, the NOS WE16 wire is now gone and sold up! But Duelund has made a match that according to Jeff Day that is even a tad bit better. 

Forget all all you may have heard about stranded or tinned wire and buy some. I had to empty my brain of past experiences and reading on tinned and stranded wire, but when I opened my mind and heard this stuff I was taken back. So open and musical. You have to hear yourself to know. Check it out.

Yes indeed that is the correct part number. 

Most definitely in the mids. A must! Decent film caps is all that is needed on the bass. Resistors are every bit as important. If you have sand cast, then get Mills MRA series.
Caps in the shunt position do matter. I have heard the difference numerous times. 

Don't forget Jupiter VT caps as they are great sounding and far more affordable. I used them in my last project. 

You can buy directly from Chris at the Jupiter website and he is a great guy. Here is the link. He is very helpful and answers the phone. 

http://jupitercondenser.com

You can can also buy them at Sonic Craft. They usually offer 20% off and ship quickly. Here is a link to the VT caps. The HT caps are also very special.

http://www.soniccraft.com/index.php/jupiter-vt-c-301_38_446

Do you think these would be good as output caps in a preamp or coupling to output in an amp?