Audiolab 8000T faceplate bulbs

In general, most replacement bulbs can be found. My best source is Bulbtronics. The problem is finding out the exact bulb-type you need. My approach would be to disassemble it and look. Another approach is to contact the TagMclaren website and ask.

All the bulbs in my 8000T are still working fine, but I can see another problem looming on the horizon the day one eventually burns out: I can't for the life of me figure out how to open up the case on the this piece without feeling like I'm about to damage something, so I've never even seen the inside. Am I missing something simple here?

Thanks for the responses: I emailed and got a response from the guys at McClaren Tag. They will mail the bulbs (which need to be soldered in), along with instructions on opening the front and doing the repair. They were helpful and prompt, but bulbs apparently cost 17 GBP (seems like a lot of scheckels for a few bulbs; and who the hell solders in light bulbs??!!!).

When they were "Audiolab" bulbs, they probably only cost a buck or two! You have to hand it to those Tag McLaren boys! If you haven't sent the money, I'd try Artech to see if they had any in stock.

Taking the 8000T apart requires several small sizes of "torx" drivers and the habit of periodically touching the metal chassis to ground out any static electricity on your body (unplug it - the plug is not grounded). Wear only pure cotton garments and do not shuffle your feet. Act as if it were a computer - it does contain CMOS devices.

I have disassembled mine only so far, as many fasteners seem hidden by every other mechanical part in the tuner. I need the instructions (or just a hint) to remove the white bulb reflector and Liquid Crystal Display panel. Watch yourself around the LCD, it is static electricity sensitive and only TAG McLaren can provide a replacement.

The bulbs are configuration T size 1-3/4, driven by a 6 Volt direct current supply. I have no idea what wattage they are, I cannot untrap the white reflector to read the identification on the bases. If I knew the wattage, I would assemble a super-bright light-emitting diode and a current-limiting resistor to replace each bulb. They would last virtually forever, whereas the bulbs will one day burn out again.

But to R&R bulbs, desolder the two U-shaped bare wires from the main printed circuit card to the middle of the bulb printed circuit card. Clean the holes of old solder with one of the solder suckers sold at electronics stores or heat the hole and insert and extract a fresh piece of braided wire while it is kept hot. Same with removing the old bulbs.

Clean the new bulb leads by gingerly scraping the oxidization from them, stick the leads through the holes and bend them over underneath to hold the bulb in place. Next, wipe the HOT tip of your pencil-type soldering iron across a wet rolled-up paper towel, then immediately melt a dab of electronic solder onto it (the best is 63% tin 34% lead 3% silver, but you can use Radio Shack 60%-40%-0%). Immediately stick the soldered bit of the iron tip into a hole with its wire, poke a bit of solder into the junction of hole, wire and iron tip, but on the side opposite the iron tip, just until the solder melts. The melted solder will flow toward the iron tip along the wire and hole plating. IMMEDIATELY retract the iron and do not mechanically disturb the joint for about 4 seconds. If you are particular, then quickly scrub away the brown solder flux with a small disposable brush dipped in dry isopropyl alcohol. Then cut away the excess wire lead.

What you are looking for is a shiny, conCAVE solder connection (no blobs). I know they made blobs at the factory, but it is poor practice, and wastes solder. If the joint is rough or dull, you jiggled the hot joint or never got it quite hot enough (retract the iron a split-second slower). Perversely, this also happens if you persist in heating the joint for several seconds after the solder melts.

Repeat for each lead, and screw it back together.

Maybe you should practice soldering on something else first. I did when LTV trained me to solder. Best of luck.

Seeing this thread pop back up again, I can now happily report that the mysterious trouble in opening my 8000T's casework has been solved: for some reason, the stamped steel cover on my example was epoxy-bonded to the top of the aluminum faceplate extrusion across the unit's entire width! I don't know if this could have been done at the factory or whether a previous owner must have been responsible, but it took a scary amount of effort and a leap of faith that I was prepared to break my tuner should I be wrong (I couldn't see what was going on until it was opened) in order to pry the damn thing off. The result was a separated but fairly bent top cover, but I was able to reflatten it out pretty well afterwards.

Fortunately, I found out the preceding before my unit's bulb has needed replacement. Thanks Dcb49 for the tutorial. It's interesting to note that a mega-tuner-comparo webpage I've forgotten the name of advised that the 8000T be left permanently powered-up for best sound, something I've never tried for fear of burning up the bulb even faster.

My LED display panel only shows 3 digits with maximum value of 288. Even though I Auto up or down the number will run up or down but never exceeding 288 or Less than 100.

My last station was FM92.40. Because I accidentally dislodged the power plug the panel showing FM92.40 went down to showing 288 or less in value and nothing more.

Have tried pressing the P buttons and several others ut unable to recover the normal panel display.

Any one any idea where a spare LED Display panel is available never mind if it is used.

Thanks you.

Frank at Audio Tronics in Cherry Hill NJ can replace most light bulbs with LED's. He replaced the light bulbs on my Sansui TU 717 tuner with LED's. Great guy to do business with.