Arm choices for Thorens TD 150 MKll AB


I am looking to replace the original tonearm on my Thorens TD125. Can anyone suggest an inexpensive arm that will perform better than the stock arm? I am thinking that fairly light arms, such as those that would work on the LP12 would probably be good in this application. Thanks for all of the help.

Marty Kohn
Portland, OR
128x128viridian
TD125 or TD150? Either way, there is lots of room on the armboard for most any arm. If you can find a used Hadcock that would be my first choice. Though I haven't heard them, I think the Sumiko MMT or FT3 would also be good choices. I understand the Audioquest PT9 is a descendant of the MMT, and is available for $395 new at elusive disc.
Hi Marty, I posted yesterday but my post seemed to not make it.

Some time ago I used a Mayware on a TD150 (or TD160?). I was using it back to back with a modified RB250 and to my ears the Mayware was head and shoulders better. It really seemed to work well on the Thorens.

The arm is very light and will require you to choose a high compliance cart. They are normally very cheap but there is a NOS one on Audiogon. The guy wants a bit more than I am willing to pay, but I am tempted.

Regards
Paul
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Would a Rega RB251 Tonearm go well with a Thorens TD 150?

Viridian what tonearm did you end up with on either Thorens TT you had?
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"Steve has an interesting solution at The Thorens Department, where the springs are replaced with lengths of garden hose. Don't laugh,...."

er...um... Steve here from The Analog Dept. I just felt a need to offer one small edit to the above quote. Not garden hose. Too flimsy. Automotive heater hose is what I used. Much more robust.

-Otherwise, please carry on....

-Steve
I'd contact Artisan Fidelity and ask them for arm suggestions. Just look at their work modifying and restoring TD125's. Nicest TD125's I have ever seen. www.artisanfidelity.com They even get rid of the old 125 suspension and go with a non suspended high mass setup.

Hi Viridian

Thanks for sharing. Your story definitely gave me some help and I hope it will help others. I'll be checking the sites you mention for Thorens information. You are right though from looking at various sites yesterday there is a great divide as to whether or not an Rega RB250/251 or other arms are a good match for vintage Thorens tables.

Ever since I saw a pretty sweet Thorens 125 MkII on that show Storage Wars I've been taken in by the older Thorens TTs. I'm starting to do some research now while I'm enjoying my current TT set-up.

Thanks again.
Hi Jeremy72

I didn't see your post when I was responding to Viridian's. The Thorens tables by Artisan Fidelity are VERY nice. I'll give them a shout when I'm ready.
Another low cost option: Jelco.
Last I checked there was an ebay seller pushing nos SA-370H models for ~$300.00

I put together a TD150 using one of these. Very good. The arm is versatile. Medium mass. Could be used with either MM or MC cart of choice. The wiring harness on it looked pretty decent. Add to that a Sumiko HS-12 headshell to complete it.

-Steve
I did the heater hose mode to my TD150, and mounted an RB250 with no problem. The stock plinth of the TD150 was definitely the weak link.

David
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One thing I've noticed about the TD150 players I've had over here is that they have the lightest/shortest of the Thorens suspension springs in that era. This in comparison to the TD160, its successor and the TD125 which has a very different spring rate. Sorry I can't give precise spring rate data between the three models but when compared side by side, the difference is apparent.

Also, the Td125 uses a much more solid and heavier sub-chassis than does the TD150. So That model should accommodate heavier arms better than will the TD150.

Even the SME 3009 SII improved is a heavier tonearm than is any of those Thorens tonearms. On the Td150, with its suspension designed to carry a TP13/TP13a, any other arm one can think of will likely be heavier than the stock unit.

-Steve
Mayware formula 4 is amazing. You can add headshell weights to give a bit more kick. Use a top notch arm cable and almost any cartridge will sound fantastic. It is fiddly to set up at first because it is very adjustable.

Linn Akito. I had mine rebuilt by Jon Nilsen at AudioOrigami the bearings were upgraded to Ekos bearings, it was rewired and Input a better cable on. It performs better than an Ittok. Lots of insight and drama.

My TD125 has an RB250 bought from Origin live with the counterweight modified. Then further reworked by audioOrigami. It has silver Kondo fairy-wire foam filling and reworked bearings. I have a Michell VTA adjuster and nut. It works brilliantly.