Analog Magic Question


I recently acquired the Analog Magic software and have been playing with it and learning from it.  I would like to discuss it with someone who is an experienced user.

billstevenson

The actual measured values for the azimuth are 0.45 (left) and 0.48 (right). 

That can’t be correct. For this test you are playing a 1 KHz tone in one channel and measuring how much lower it is in the other channel. Lower is negative dB. 

-20dB is 10 times less and not so good

-30db is about 32 times less and what better cartridges can do, or close to it

-40dB is 100 times less and very unusual as well as very, very good

You should typically be getting readings in the minus 25-30 dB range. The goal is for them to be as close together as possible with about .5dB difference pretty good. So for instance -27.7dB for L and -28.1dB for R would be .4dB difference so pretty good. The numbers you stated make no sense. 

https://www.analogmagik.com/azimuth

Some months or a few years ago, Dave Slagle was at my house, and he adjusted my ART7 cartridge to correct for its zenith error. To do that, he had with him a laptop with some sort of measuring program on it. 

I assume Dave was using Analog Magik and using the VTA test if he has version 1. He has discussed this over at What’s Best.  Version 2 has a Zenith test but I have V1 so haven’t used it. For V1 measure distortion with the VTA track, twist and measure until you get it as low and even as you can. Typically starting closer to 10% after aligning visually, I’ve found 2-3% to be really good.

@herman 

The numbers I provided are the IM distortion values.  I did not record the db difference values, but will go back and do so later today and post them.  I have a PT appointment this morning, recovering from knee replacement surgery, so I can't do it right now and it is not trivial to set up the test for me.  In the meantime please look at Tutorial #9 as I believe it will end your misunderstanding.

I read the tutorial. V2 works a bit differently than V1, but what I stated about azimuth is true nonetheless.

For azimuth, the goal is to minimize crosstalk and to make it equal in both channels as I described.

For VTA, the goal is to minimize distortion.

While VTA and azimuth are interrelated, they are different. You stated the distortion you measured which is an indication of optimized VTA. . This does not mean you optimized azimuth by minimizing and making crosstalk equal.

From the tutorial. which states what I did about azimuth. I am not misunderstanding anything.

AnalogMagik allows users to determine optimal azimuth angle by measuring the crosstalk between Left and Right channel.  Optimal position is achieved when the two numbers are as close together as possible.   

 

Optimal Vertical Tracking Angle (or optimal SRA) is determined by measuring the Intermodulation Distortion level (IMD%), optimal VTA/SRA is achieved when both Left and Right channel displays the lowest level of IMD%.  

@herman 

I did two things.  First I played band 2 and recorded the db difference without changing anything.  22.56 db (r) and 23.38 db (l).  Second, per the recommendation of Louis of Ortofon, USA, I changed from the Jico head shell that I have been using for years for all my cartridges, and substituted the OEM head shell.  Two points of interest to me were:  1) the OEM head shell weighs 8 grams, the Jico weighs 12 grams and 2) the OEM head shell does have zenith adjustment, which I mistakenly thought it lacked.

Anyway here in abbreviated form (skipping parameters that are unchanged from my previous report) is the new data:

4. Azimuth L/R + VTA 25.42 db (r) 23.12 db (l) ; 6.6% (l) 5.1% (r) (note much higher than previous numbers)

5. Channel Balanace. 0.71 db

6. Vibration test is meaningless

7. Resonance. Lateral Peak. 8.583 Hz, Vertical Peak 8.577 HZ

I also ran the track ability tests on the Ortofon Test Record.  So with all that done and the numbers changed I can't say that I hear any difference.  I am getting more comfortable with AnalogMagik.  It does seem that the resonance test works, but failing it does not necessarily mean that the sky is falling.  

AM is a bit of climb but very useful once you are comfortable. You are making good progress. I still think you are confusing the terms. You need to get a firm grasp on the difference in zenith and azimuth or we are talking past each other. like this

the OEM head shell does have zenith adjustment,

you can adjust zenith on almost all headshells, if they have slotted holes, you can rotate the cartridge and adjust zenith. rotate it looking down from the top. Many do not have azimuth adjustments, rotate it looking at it from the front.

you should be able to  get these closer 25.42 db (r) 23.12 db by adjusting azimuth. Round off your readings as you look at them.. 23.1 and 23.12 are not significantly different

I think the .45% and .48% IMD you reported earlier is suspiciously low, perhaps impossible. While 5-6% is much higher, it is not horrible and more realistic. I suspect you can change the Zenith to lower them further then try VTA.

changing the Zenith, turning the cartridge ever so slightly, I mean teeny, tiny amounts where you aren’t even sure you moved it, can make a huge difference. It is  just something you have to keep doing until you get a feel for it. Screws a bit too loose and it moves too much and won’t stay, a bit tighter and you can’t move it. 

I’m talking about turning (twisting)  it looking straight down from above rotating it clockwise and anti-clockwise.. again, so little you aren’t even sure it moved, a fraction of a degree. 

then you have to check Azimuth and overhang and VTF and VTA again, and so forth. Unless you slid the cartridge back and forth while adjusting zenith then overhang won’t change but check, VTA and VTF likewise, but check them.