@knollbrent whichever arm you choose from the ones you have you will land upright and unharmed.
When you have completed the front-end share some photos.
Almost time to arm the Victor TT 101
Hey everybody!
Three years ago or more, I got my Victor TT 101 back from JP. Chakster sold me one of his and it went directly to JP to get overhauled. Exterior mint condition. It took JP forever to finish it, with good reason. He said he'd never worked one that had this many issues. With each fix, something else failed or wouldn't work. But, he accomplished the impossible and sent it to me where it would sit for a couple more years as I was too scared to set the arms and carts. I'm a deer in headlights when it comes to this stuff, I really am. I can't seem to find anyone locally to guide me through the setup process and I was too drunk and high (sober now) to dare align things myself.
My friends, life is different now. I've got clarity and a little courage. With the help of my Russian friend, were gonna get my new arm boards bored, arms fixed and carts aligned! I've got a nice Victor UA-7082 that will go nice on that table. Not sure the other arm, I've got many, maybe my Technics EPA 100? Sony perhaps. I've got a Victor UA-7045, might go that route as well. Plenty of vintage carts to choose from. After all these years, finally listening to those too!
Plinth is original with a fresh Teak veneer. Looks sharp. I'd say I'll have it up and spinning within a month or so. Pretty excited!
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Thank you @best-groove I appreciate the vote of confidence. I do like to take as much time as needed plus the Russian will be assisting from long distance. |
If I were still collecting Vintage Japanese DD TT's the Victor Models will certainly be on my short list. The appeal is the mass of the materials, which has been selected for producing the Structure, certain Victor Models are looking like they are honed as design for the structure. I have seen go to Japanese Vintage DD TT's with a TA > Cart' attached as sale item, be offered between £5K - £8K. Where the TT Model has a very wanting structure for the chassis. The Bowl which the Stator and Bearing Housing is seated, has a gauge of metal to form the Bowl of not more than 1mm (1/64). A very poor structure, to perform the role of remaining rigid, as all the forces of the driving the Platter and Platter Rotations are transferred to this structure. Flexion and Resonance are the only outcome. My investigation of Vintage Japanese DD TT's has taught me there are models that are ranging in the designs put in place for the Bowl that mounts the Stator and Bearing Housing. Substantial material used to form the Bowl with a shallow depth for the Bowls form is the ideal for this type of design. Additional methods adopted for any DD TT that functions to rigidly secure the Bowl, produces a design, if executed correctly, that offers a very good method to create an improvement for the mechanical function of the TT. I am not too sure the use of the Original Plinth is going to yield the most attractive end sound from a Japanese Vintage DD TT. Research will show there are numerous redesigns for a Variety of Brands Models through out the period of their Hey Day of being in production. The Link will show how ideas for the Victor Plinths has evolved over time. The Link also shows a Through Section of a Victor DD TT, the idea of rigidly coupling the Bearing Housing Base seems to be an easier option on this model shown, than some of the other Brands DD TT's I have investigated. In the present era, looking into a Phenolic Resin Impregnated Densified Wood Board to produce a Plinth. Where using a Branded Product like 'Panzerholz', or a very similar designed Product from another Brand. Has for many adopters of such a material type, been proved through experiencing the material function as a Plinth. Shown to adopters of it, as a choice for a material. It has been the one that has created an end sound that is difficult to imagine can be bettered.
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Any of the tonearms you mentioned would be fine, but I think the EPA100 is the best of them. At the very least, I would upgrade the tonearm mount board. Use the OEM board as a template and make a replica out of solid aluminum or panzer holz. In addition I added large pieces of aluminum as bracing on the bottom side of my plinth, using heavy duty wood screws to dampen the wood structure. The OEM plinth and the wood arm board are the Achilles heel of the Victor TT series. |
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