Aftermarket fuse to tame a bright system?


Been reading all the interesting posts here, I've recently switched over to Audioquest silver interconnects and speaker cables, the improvement is easy to hear over OCC copper - lower noise floor, more clarity, greater transient snap, larger soundstage etc.... BUT.

I would say my system still has body, but the top end is now bright/harsh.  Could an aftermarket fuse tame this, so that I can still retain the clarity and other benefits of silver? I'm concerned that this potential solution may make my system more dynamic, and potentially give it a U or V shape sound profile - which is definitely what I don't want.

gavin1977

Showing 3 responses by cleeds

The very best way to tame brightness or any frequency-based colorations is to use an equalizer - either in the analog or digital domain - doesn't matter which.

I think using EQ is a solution of the last resort. Room treatment is the first thing to consider, imo.

You should order the furutech gtx-d NCF outlet and try it out. See how it works in your system.

I’m tempted. My system is biamplified and basically runs on four 20A derated dedicated lines: one for the HF amplifier, one for the LF amplifier, one for the preamp and analog sources, and one for digital. I don’t think premium outlets such as the Furutech were available when I installed those lines decades ago, so I used the best quality Leviton devices that were available at the time. I have very poor quality AC where I live, so each line floats on isolation transformers and this has worked relatively well.

I’ve tried Furutech AC plugs on some of my power cords (using Wireworld cable) and wasn’t impressed with the build quality. I’ve thought about upgrading the dedicated wall outlets but haven’t been sure whose to use (Furutech, Audioquest, Oyaide, Synergistic Research, etc.) and which of the four lines to install it on first. I don’t rule out a possible improvement because I’ve been surprised by seemingly small things before. Hence interest.

I also haven't tried an audiophile grade fuse because, in the same vein as audiophile outlets, I wonder about their possible sonic influence.

... This is my only response to you as apparently having a normal conversation without jabbing isn’t something you’re capable of.

Suit yourself.

... The fuse on the other hand is a 1” long safety device with a hair thin piece of wire that melts when the amperage criteria is exceeded ... the difference in sound quality this device can make is negligible at best ...

That's interesting that you think a fuse is such a trivial thing, but breaking in Furutech GTX-D NCF outlets causes an "absolutely psychotic rollercoaster that lasts over 300hrs." What do you think accounts for the difference?